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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getawayby Jo Ann HoltWhere do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.
I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.
Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp.
The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.
After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.
At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.
The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen.
The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getawayby Jo Ann HoltWhere do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.
I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.
Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp.
The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.
After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.
At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.
The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen.
The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getawayby Jo Ann HoltWhere do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event. (Sunrise on Dauphin Island) Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach. Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf. I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide. (Bellingrath Alabama Cruise) That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens. These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile. Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. (Bellingrath Gardens and home) In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river. After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife. (Holiday Lights at Bellingrath) While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S. The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home. While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. (Dauphin Island) The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather. I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back. For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine. After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted. (Fort Gaines) I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo. First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707. At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week. (Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home) That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs. The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen. (Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn) Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre. As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway By Jo Ann Holt Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event. (Sunrise on Dauphin Island) Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach. Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf. I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide. (Bellingrath Alabama Cruise) That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens. These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile. Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. (Bellingrath Gardens and home) In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river. After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife. (Holiday Lights at Bellingrath) While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S. The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home. While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. (Dauphin Island) The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather. I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back. For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine. After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted. (Fort Gaines) I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo. First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707. At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week. (Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home) That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs. The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen. (Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn) Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre. As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway By Jo Ann Holt Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event. (Sunrise on Dauphin Island) Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach. Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf. I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide. (Bellingrath Alabama Cruise) That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens. These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile. Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. (Bellingrath Gardens and home) In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river. After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife. (Holiday Lights at Bellingrath) While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S. The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home. While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. (Dauphin Island) The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather. I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back. For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine. After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted. (Fort Gaines) I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo. First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707. At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week. (Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home) That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs. The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen. (Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn) Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre. As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Coping in with the High Cost of Copenhagenby Jennifer M. Eisenlau
Eating & Drinking
4—Beer: Buy a Turborg can at the market and drink in parks and along canals. What? I hear you say—I am not a wino. No, never said you were. It’s just how the local folks do it. A beer at a café is about 35 KR ($7) and a beer at the store is about 5 KR ($1). Visit Nyborg Harbor on a sunny day and you’ll see groups of gorgeous businessmen drinking in just this manner. It is legal to drink in public areas, and CPH is adorned with lovely parks. 5—Other libations: Be sure to visit the duty-free shop on your way into Denmark. Pick up a bottle of liquor or wine either at your stateside airport or while en route. There’s also a duty-free shop open to all in-coming passengers at Kastrup Airport. 6—Coffee: Buy to-go (take away) coffee at 7-11. It is really quite tasty and costs 19 KR, versus the price of 30 KR in coffee shops. The 7-11 convenience stores in Denmark look grubby on the outside, but inside you’ll find a clean and well-stocked shop that offers fruit, fresh Danish pastries called Weinerbrod, juices, and a cappuccino machine that makes good coffee. 7—Water & soda—Not a beer drinker? Have kids with you? Well, a Coke at lunch will cost you 22 KR. Tap water may cost you about 5 KR per glass! What to do? Order a big bottle of mineral water with your meal. The price for a liter of mineral water is about 30 KR and you’ll have about 6 glasses to drink.
9--McDonalds: Okay, just listen. McD’s in Denmark is designed with Scandinavian lines and décor. The value menu costs a 10 KR per item and there are lots of local Danish folks inside. Of course it not smorgasbord, but if you’re in a pinch for something fast and inexpensive, McD’s is a fairly good deal. They also offer items we rarelty see stateside, like “cheesy toppers” and joerdbeer McFlurries. Every Little Bit Helps1—Shopping Bags: Bring a bag for your shopping (or you’ll have to buy one!). If you have a canvas bag or a string shopping bag, bring it along. Or, maybe just a plastic shopping bag from home will do. If you forget your bag when you shop, you’ll spend an extra 5 KR every time you renter the shops. 2—Cup Return: At Tivoli, return your beer and soda cups in the little rekey machine and get 5 KR back per cup. Don’t toss the cup away, like I did. I effectively tossed $3.00 into the trash bin after lunch at Tivoli. 3—Recycle: Don’t toss your cans! Return and get back 1-3 KR per can. Recycle centers are quick and easy and fully automated. All you do is slide the can into the tube and the machine registers the can. When it’s over, you’ll get a receipt. 4—Pin Number: Do not leave home without it. Call your credit card issuer and ask for a pin. I read this advice in Rick Steves’ Scandinavia and did not pay attention. Well, I was shocked when I could not pay my 500 KR dinner tab. No pin, no access to your credit (you use a pin, rather than signing here, it seems). 5—Fees: Be aware that many restaurants will charge you an additional fee of 3-4% if you use a credit card. They are simply passing on to you their costs of processing the card. 6—VAT: If you plan on a big purchase (say over $100) on an item you will take out of Denmark look for a shop with a “Duty Free” sticker. These shops will automatically reduce the price of your purchase by 25% (removing the Value Added Tax that EU residents pay on goods). Activities & Sight Seeing
2—Museums: Many museums in Copenhagen are free all the time: The National Museum of Denmark, the Statens Museum for Kunst, and the Museum of Danish Resistance. Also, be aware that several museums offer a “free admission” day. The glorious Ny Gyptotek is open to all on Sunday; the Danish Museum of Art and Design is free on Wednesday afternoons. Read your guide book and plan your itinerary around free days.
Here’s how I used my CPH Card to for maximum benefit. I visited attractions near one another, so I did not waste time traveling. I only visited free entrance attractions, rather than those only offering a discounted admission. I selected the attractions with the more expensive entrance fees. I include the full cost of the entry fees in brackets for an adult and child. My son entered free while accompanied by me. On Tuesday, I arrived at the Denmark’s Aquarium at 13:00 (one o’clock) and started the card (90KR/45 KR). Next, we traveled to the renowned Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, which is open until 22:00. With all the sunshine until ten o’clock, we made the most of this gallery overlooking the sea (90 KR/0). On Wednesday, we were up early at waiting for the H.C. Andersen Eventyruset to open at 10:00. After visiting the fairytale world of The Little Mermaid and The Princess and the Pea (67 KR/ 34 KR) we ran over to The Danish Museum of Art and Design (50 KR/ 25 KR). At noon, we took the Metro (20 KR—all public transport is included on the CPH Card) to the Zoologisk Have (120 KR / 60 KR). We barely made it, but we did enter the zoo at 12:45 -- and as you can see, we saved a considerable amount of money. 4—The Beach: Copenhagen sits on the sea, and all along its north and south shores, you’ll find nice beaches. The water is clean and cold, and the rules relaxed. Feel free to sunbathe topless, have a beer, play paddle ball, or watch the ships sail by on their way to Sweden. Some fine beach towns are up north, like Gilleleje Veststrand. It’s all good and free. There’s even swimming in the CPH at Havnebadet, a pool by the harbor side (www.islands-brygge.com). Wherever you have a dip, you’ll find ice cream kiosks (Is) all over. Have a kagler the Danish-way: two scoops in a waffle come topped with whipped cream and a squirt of strawberry sauce (20 KR).
Denmark is a very expensive city, but the Danes are the happiest people on earth, according to a recent poll. How can that be? I think they are simply frugal and spend wisely. The advice I wrote above is based upon my month in Denmark, my friendship with two Frederiksberg’s residents, and my own travel habits. I hope they help you to travel well, wisely, and above all—happily. If you go, visit this official CPH web site for more information: |
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Checking
into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters
would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to
walk on the pristine beach.
That
evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby
Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on
the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home,
with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.
In
the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most
prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the
river.
While
the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday
Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes
New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.
The
next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach,
although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the
terrific weather.
I
had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin
Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the
Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.
That
evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the
gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese,
with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood
specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal
Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red
snapper served with collard greens and ribs.
Sunday
morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by
fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short
but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.
Copenhagen can take a big bite out of your travel budget. Many people give Denmark’s culture capital a miss, for this very reason. However, if you are careful with your money, the long warm evenings of northern sunlight and happy Scandinavians can be all yours. I visited Copenhagen in June 2008, and here are a few money saving tips I used to stretch my weak dollars. At the time of my writing this, the exchange rate of Danish Kroner was approximately 5 KR = 1 UD$.
1—Picnic: Dine al fresco at least once a day. Restaurants will gobble up your travel budget pretty quickly in Denmark. Visit grocery stores like Super Best. Super Brugens, Irma, Netto, and Aldi for cheese, crackers, fruit, and juice. you’ll be in heaven. Laks is served 10 different ways in Denmark. Cups and napkins are really pricey, so pack a few in your suitcase (or borrow from the breakfast buffet at the hotel). A Swiss Army knife will come in handy to cut up salami or open wine. Also a light sarong will make an easy picnic blanket. Feel free to bring a lunch with you whenever you visit a park, museum, festival, or event. The Danes do. 
2—Dining Out: Eat out at lunch, when you visit a restaurant. Lunch is much less expensive than dinner. Lunch is also a delicious tradition in Denmark: smorbrod or open-faced sandwiches are a treat. Curried chicken, pickled herring, and burgers are eaten with a knife and fork. Buffets abound in Copenhagen: try Riz Raz vegetarian restaurants (there are 2 in the city). Each restaurant offers a huge Mediterranean Buffet with giant ceramic bowls full of homemade items like hummus, marinated vegetables, Greek salads, pastas. And for the kids, there’s pizza. There’s a Waggamama Noodle House just off Tivoli Gardens. The Japanese dishes are reasonable and yummy.
8—Carlsberg Brewery Tour: I wondered why the tasting room was so crowded, while tour was so empty of visitors, but now I know why. The locals skip the tour of the beer factory and go straight to the tasting room. For a 50 KR entry fee to the beer museum, you sample two full-sized beers (one premium and one standard brew). In contrast to the 100+ year-old brewery facilities, the tasting room is modern with sleek Scandinavian lines in glass and wood. Deliciously-cold beer served perfectly in pretty glassware. The same two beers in a café or bar would cost well over 75 KR. Pop by and take a tour, and maybe then pop back a bit later in the week for the drinks alone. Why not? The local folks do.
1—Concerts: CPH is chocked full of festivals, concerts, and productions in three summers. Find one, pack a picnic and head out like the Danes do. One way to see what’s on is to read the English-language paper available weekly. Copies are available at hotels and at the Rathaus in the city center. Read up on all events in What’s Up, a free guide in English to the city. Ask at the hotel front desk. Look for signs in parks, too. At Tivoli, there’s a free rock concert every Friday night, include in the price of admission (85 KR to enter, 200 KR with ride bracelet). 
3—CPH Card: The Copenhagen visitor card is a pass to the city is 199 KR for 24 hours (
5—The Park: Frederiksberg Have is a lovely park full of ducks and swans, a waterfall, a pacifier tree (little kids hang their binkies in the branches in hopes the fairies help them kick the habit, or so I’ve been lead to believe), boat rides along the canal, and elephants bathing. The city park is built along the zoo, so the elephants can be viewed as easily by those in the zoo and outside the zoo. The park is open and free and full of Danes being happy.