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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getawayby Jo Ann HoltWhere do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.
I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.
Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp.
The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.
After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.
At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.
The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen.
The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getawayby Jo Ann HoltWhere do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.
I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.
Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp.
The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.
After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.
At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.
The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen.
The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getawayby Jo Ann HoltWhere do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event. (Sunrise on Dauphin Island) Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach. Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf. I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide. (Bellingrath Alabama Cruise) That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens. These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile. Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. (Bellingrath Gardens and home) In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river. After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife. (Holiday Lights at Bellingrath) While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S. The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home. While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. (Dauphin Island) The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather. I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back. For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine. After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted. (Fort Gaines) I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo. First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707. At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week. (Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home) That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs. The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen. (Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn) Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre. As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway By Jo Ann Holt Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event. (Sunrise on Dauphin Island) Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach. Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf. I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide. (Bellingrath Alabama Cruise) That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens. These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile. Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. (Bellingrath Gardens and home) In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river. After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife. (Holiday Lights at Bellingrath) While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S. The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home. While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. (Dauphin Island) The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather. I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back. For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine. After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted. (Fort Gaines) I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo. First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707. At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week. (Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home) That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs. The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen. (Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn) Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre. As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway By Jo Ann Holt Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event. (Sunrise on Dauphin Island) Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach. Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf. I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide. (Bellingrath Alabama Cruise) That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens. These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile. Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. (Bellingrath Gardens and home) In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river. After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife. (Holiday Lights at Bellingrath) While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S. The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home. While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. (Dauphin Island) The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather. I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back. For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine. After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted. (Fort Gaines) I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo. First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707. At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week. (Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home) That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs. The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen. (Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn) Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre. As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Paul Dolan Wines tastily Organicby Darryl BeesonPaul Dolan was present for the wine revolt. With 27 years at the renowned yet affordable Fetzer Vineyards (a dozen years as the president), he took them to the head of organic viticulture and sustainability. “We want to make a difference in this community,” says Dolan, “and we are. When Mendocino farmers get together, we talk about organics and biodynamics because we strongly believe these practices are good for the land and for wine quality.” His grandfather, Edmund Ross, operated the famous Italian Swiss Colony winery. “Granddad visited us in Oakland every weekend,” remembers Dolan. “At our family table you could always count on great food and wine, and stories of the old days.” Now at Parducci and Mendocino Wine, he is still a mover in the industry. “We are clear about what we want,” says Paul, “ - - an environmentally and socially conscious winery making great wines from Mendocino. We are farming from the standpoint of respect for the land and the natural environment.” Paul and Parducci winemaker Bob Swain work with a constant focus on quality and pure expression of Mendocino terroir. Paul’s greatest passion, however, is winegrowing at his family-owned Dark Horse Ranch, east of the Russian River in the foothills north of Hopland. He and sons Heath and Jason chose this place because of its diverse natural beauty, dramatic terrain and deep red soils. It has been a family project and a labor of love to convert 70 acres of grapes into a certified BiodynamicÆ vineyard. An earnest student of Rudolf Steiner (the father of the biodynamic movement), Paul embraces Steiner’s premise that each piece of land has its own unique expression. The Dolan family is nurturing the land to capture that expression in Paul Dolan Vineyards wines. In 2004 Paul and his sons harvested the first Dark Horse grapes (Syrah, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah). The resulting wine, named Deep Red for the Red Vine soil series in which the vines grow, is a limited production, certified biodynamic wine. “Dark Horse Ranch is my family’s home, where my sons and their children are fifth and sixth-generation winegrowers in the Russian River basin. We’re rooted here. I am part of the fabric of this place: the water, air, wine and food are part of me.” Paul’s goal is to make Parducci and MWC a model for the wine business. In turn, he is determined to develop the wine industry as a model for all agriculture, worldwide. “We are seeing a shift, an awakening, where people are taking a strong stand on the food and wine they consume and its impact on the environment. The greatest challenge in the world today is global warming. All of us, individuals and businesses, must do all we can to meet this challenge.” This is the message he delivers as an industry leader, winemaker, farmer and father. Paul knows that sustainability is an economic asset and a competitive advantage, as well as an imperative for healthy life on this planet. He is spreading the word – for the good of business, the community and the environment. A sustainable business should be a whole business, like a whole person. It must have integrity. It must have a moral center. It must be connected to its values and the greater world. It must aspire to do what is right, not just for the bottom line, not just from a legal standpoint, but from a moral and ethical standpoint. It’s not only accountable, it’s responsible. Paul Dolan, True to Our Roots, Fermenting a Business Revolution, 2003 Paul resides in Healdsburg, California with his wife Diana and daughter Sassicaia. He spends leisure time in his Mendocino County vineyards and on horseback at Dark Horse Ranch. 2OO7 SAUVIGNON BLANC Black bears roam the hillsides by the headwaters of the Russian River, where two adjacent vineyards (each with its own hydroelectric power plant!) provided the grapes for this wine. This northern vineyard area is a land of extremes, with cold nights and hot days. The wine has a distinctive kiwi fruit character, with bright citrus zest and lemon grass notes. This wine is the unique expression of a carefully nurtured piece of land, made manifest in each bottle. We do without conventional pesticides and synthetic fertilizers, treating the soil as a living, life-giving system. Our winegrowing practices create special wines, while sustaining our environment, the place where we live, and the people who live here. VARIETALS: 100% SAUVIGNON BLANC 2OO6 ZINFANDEL The Mendocino County Zinfandel in this bottle includes fruit from the Dolan family's vineyard south of Talmage. Paul Dolan's old friend, Frank Alviso, provided the Amador County component for this wine. Mendocino County gives this wine its jammy berry quality. Amador County lends a distinctive peppery spice. Together these opposites attract into a perfect marriage. This wine is the unique expression of a carefully nurtured piece of land, made manifest in each bottle. We do without conventional pesticides and synthetic fertilizers, treating the soil as a living, life-giving system. Our winegrowing practices create special wines, while sustaining our environment, the place where we live, and the people who live here. VINEYARDS: 63% MENDOCINO COUNTY Darryl Beeson teaches professional certification for www.internationalsommelier.com. |
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Checking
into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters
would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to
walk on the pristine beach.
That
evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby
Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on
the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home,
with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.
In
the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most
prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the
river.
While
the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday
Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes
New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.
The
next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach,
although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the
terrific weather.
I
had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin
Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the
Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.
That
evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the
gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese,
with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood
specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal
Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red
snapper served with collard greens and ribs.
Sunday
morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by
fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short
but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.