Blantyre Hotel: A Bit of Heaven in the Berkshires
by Richard Frisbie
 The wind blew glittering ice crystals across the expansive grounds
surrounding the hilltop Tudor mansion. Snow piled against the pillars of the
portico, forming a thick carpet under the arched brick entryway. Icicles
hung from the drift-laden roof nearly obscuring the frost-coated windows. I
felt as if I were stepping into a scene from Dr. Zhivago. So this is
Blantyre, I thought as I stamped snow off my boots and entered into another
world.
 The cottages in the Berkshires are reminiscent of another, more opulent era.
Built as summer homes for the moneyed class to escape the grime and heat of
the city, they were grand and elaborate mansions, not cottages at all.
Ornately carved wood-paneled walls, with leaded and stained glass windows
overlooking vistas beyond the croquet and tennis courts, delineate the grace
and elegance of their setting. The cottages were the playground of the
privileged.
 Some are gone, lost to fires, subdivisions and/or financial collapses, but
Blantyre remains - restored to all its original elegant and pastoral
splendor, buffered by the surrounding 117 acres in Lenox, Massachusetts. The
gated entry to the driveway is marked Private, but Blantyre is open
year-round as one of the finest hotels in the world - exclusive, expensive
and an incredible value for all the services offered - a Grand Chef Relais &
Châteaux Hotel. Blantyre was my destination for a winter weekend of
hedonistic spa treatments, gourmet food and exquisite wines, all in the
company of the mistress of the house.
 My hostess, Ann Fitzpatrick Brown, is a charming raconteur with an
encyclopedic knowledge of the origins of all the furnishings, linens,
silverware and crystal that fill Blantyre. She should have it, she bought
them all! Depending on the time of day, she regaled me with stories of the
renovation and furnishing of each and every corner over coffee, hot
chocolate, (9 flavors!) or a rare selection of 2500 vintage wines from the
unrivaled cellar. Her attention to detail and her love of finding and
acquiring each perfect piece for each individually designed room became
apparent as we strolled through the public spaces and private quarters.
Blantyre is perfection personified, presided over by a capable, gracious and
solicitous staff that usually outnumbers the guests. Blantyre is Heaven.
 Reigning over the culinary portion is Chef Christopher Brooks, a charming
and very talented man at the helm of a spotless kitchen. From light, lower
calorie cooking that can include some sparingly creamed and buttered
accompaniments, to rich and complex soups and stews, and desserts so light
and flaky you fear they might float away, chef Brooks and his able staff
prepare gourmet meals and snacks to suit every taste and diet.
 A formal dinner (gentlemen in jackets and ties, ladies in evening wear) one
evening included six courses served in two different rooms. The
presentation, serving and settings were all gloriously understated - simple,
elegant and beautiful. It was truly a memorable meal.
Canapés were served in the Music Room. A piano in the corner was played
quietly, as it is every evening. Flutes of champagne were poured. (“It’s not
champagne, it’s Krug Grande Cuvee.” I was told. Not understanding, it was
explained as being the company slogan for this premier French Champagne.)
And a colorful and very pretty collection of edibles filled the table. I
could have spent the evening there, conversing with the other guests and
sipping that great champagne.
All too soon we were called to the Dining Room. Our seating was by chance,
literally. “Take a card” Ann encouraged, holding a tray of antique playing
cards. We then found the match to our lucky card among the ones at each
place setting. Make a pair, have a seat - charming!
 The soup course was familiar as part of our cooking lesson earlier in the
day. The Dashi was clear, light - glistening with a smidgen of butter to
give it a sheen - and perfect
as a companion to the Maine scallop ring. It was as tasty as it looked.
A fish course of real Dover sole, a nod to chef Brooks’ European roots, was
lightly poached and served with Scottish Langoustine, truffle and the
reserved ends from the chives we chopped for the dashi that morning. When
Chef Brooks said that everything is planned to use all the parts of the
ingredients for each meal, he meant it!
 A Main Course of Pheasant Breast was the highlight for me. This gently
cooked cylinder of tender white meat blushed when I cut it into medallions.
It was perfect! When something that can be so easily overcooked is served to
a table of ten, and every breast is pink and moist, you know that kitchen
runs like a good Swiss watch.
A moment to discuss the wines: Each course was paired with a vintage wine
from the cellar of more than 2500 different varieties. Besides the Champagne
Krug with our canapés, we were served in this order:
Urziger Wurzgarten Kabinett Dr. Loosen, Mosel Saar Ruwer 2006
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Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard, Burgundy Magnum 1995
These next two were served as a comparison to see which we preferred with
the pheasant. The bordeaux was double decanted, then returned to the bottle
for serving. It was a smooth mouthful of
ruby-red richness - full-bodied and remarkably complex. I could bathe
in this wine!
Chateau Lafite Rothschild ler Cru, Pauillac, Bordeaux Magnum 1982
Joseph
Phelps Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1985
 The Phelps could have breathed a bit more, but its rich full flavor and
slightly minty nose made it a close second as the wine for the pheasant.
Port Fonesca 1963
A fruity and full-bodied cherry red “English” style Portuguese port
And finally, with the Dessert Buffet served back in the Music Room:
Chateau d’Yquem ler Cru Superieur, Sauternes 2001
A sweet, complex and
one-of-kind bottle of wine.
The wines were an extravagance of riches, each the perfect companion for the
food. Any that I found ratings on (besides perfection!) were 98 to 100. Each
went down smoothly during engaging conversations and delicious courses. It
is obvious why the “Grande Chef” was added to the already rare title of
“Relais & Châteaux” when describing Blantyre.
 The Cheese Course was comprised of local cheeses, some from where the
butters came from (there were two!) and all excellent examples of a
burgeoning artisanal cheese market in the Berkshires. The “blue”, “muenster”
and “farmers” cheese (they had local names, but this is what they reminded
me of) were the best, especially with both the brown almond bread and fig
bread served hot from the kitchen. The kitchen is so self-sufficient that
they even smoke their own salmon and ham. I’m sure they’d make their own
cheese if such quality varieties weren’t already available nearby.
We retired to the Music Room for Dessert. Little bits of sweet nothings,
edible works of art and fruits and candies, were passed, then arranged at
the table where coffees and teas could be had. The pianist was still at
work, playing happily away until the last person excused himself, and was
played to bed with the final notes.
This was a meal to rival the best meals of my life, so carefully balanced
that not one element out-shown another, with each at the peak of perfection,
complimenting the other. I can’t think of a better way to describe Blantyre.
Blantyre
A Grand Chef Relais & Châteaux Hotel
Full spa with indoor
and outdoor pools
16 Blantyre Road,
P.O. Box 995,
Lenox -
Massachusetts 01240
Tel.: : + 1 413 637 3556
Fax: : + 1 413 637 4282
blantyre@relaischateaux.com
http://www.blantyre.com
Owner and Maître de Maison: Ann Fitzpatrick Brown
Grand Chef Relais &
Châteaux: Christopher Brooks
The World of Blantyre & the Cookery of Christopher Brooks. ($70)
9x12 hardcover 240 pages - 167 pages of beautiful photographs, some history
and over 50 favorite recipes.
http://www.hopefarmbooks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=HFPB&Product_Code=BAT03
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