A Boutique Winery and its Fascinating Neighbors

by Lance Kramer

There are more reasons to take a meandering drive in west St. Charles County than rolling hills and Daniel Boone’s birthplace. Rounding a sharp curve on southbound Highway 94 in search of a neat boutique winery that has appeared on the scene, the sudden sounds of motorcycles growling at each other assault the senses. Whoa! A trip out here to discover upscale refreshments leads to stumbling upon a biker bar? No, wait, two biker bars!

The village of Defiance, Missouri contains the most unusual of establishments as neighbors. The Tavern at Defiance is a large white building on the west side of the road identified by neon Budweiser signs (this is still St. Louis, after all) and the smell of hamburgers grilling for hungry bikers. OK, maybe the bikers are thirsty as well. Across the street to the east sits Terry and Kathy’s, a biker bar with few equals. An attached pavilion rocks with the sounds of a country and western band that holds forth on weekends and provides clear views of its eastern neighbor, the Katy Trail. On any given week day, no less than twenty five bikes – Harleys, Suzukis and Yamisakes of varying types and sizes - are haphazardly parked along the road and near the entrance, with blinding reflections of sunlight shining off chrome fenders and wheels; on the weekends, the number of cycles approaches one hundred. The beer is chilled; the burgers and fries at The Tavern are among the county’s best; and the band and the jukebox roar at rocker-like decibel levels in the late afternoon and early evening.

On the north side of the road, literally a stone’s throw away, is a small farmhouse on the hill, painted a nearly blinding yellow. An elegantly lettered sign whispers “Yellow Farmhouse Winery” and is fronted by multiple bikes parked up close and personal to the similarly yellow mailbox. What started out as an old farmhouse purchased for use as a fixer upper weekend getaway has been quietly transformed by Dale Rollings into a fully fledged winery complete with vineyards on the northern hills, brushed stainless steel wine making equipment and a tasting room with all of the accoutrements necessary for a unique taste and (likely) shopping experience. Very recent upgrades include a tranquil wine garden part way up the hill. In addition, brightly colored lawn chairs lounge further up the grassy knoll, presenting a unique vantage point overlooking the garden, a portion of the vineyard, the yellow farmhouse and, through the trees, the biker bars and the beautiful countryside. Using Norton grapes that grow well here (Missouri was once the second largest producer of wines in the United States), Dale and his small crew bottle over 7000 bottles a year of red and white wines including a sauvignon blanc with a delightful touch of sparkle to it with the apt moniker “Sweet Talkin’ Blonde”. The latest best selling offering resides within a deep blue German Hoc bottle – until it is opened, that is, after which it is soon gone – and carries the name “Edelweiss” to honor the grape from which it is lovingly made.

One might initially think that having bikers bar across from a boutique winery would be incongruous, to say the least. Not at all. Adorned with American flags, the whiteness of the biker bar buildings, the red neon signs and blue denimed riders all combine to create a sense of patriotism, engendering a quiet smile. Sitting in the wine garden with a blonde beauty in hand and looking down at helmeted warriors roaring enroute to somewhere is refreshingly satisfying in a pioneering sort of a way, reminding the sipper that the home in which Daniel Boone was born is less than five miles away and grounding the blessed soul further in history and diversity. The music no longer seems so loud, the motorcycles so turbulent. And the Missouri born, raised and refined Yellow Farmhouse wine seems inexplicably perfect.

These interestingly complimentary establishments are located 45 minutes west of downtown St. Louis, on Highway 94 just 9 miles south of Highway 40/64. The winery is open from noon to 6:00 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays, while the biker bars are open every day from 11:00 a.m. to midnight. Bring your taste buds, but leave your earplugs at home.

Image picture credits: Lance Kramer