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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getawayby Jo Ann HoltWhere do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.
I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.
Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp.
The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.
After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.
At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.
The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen.
The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getawayby Jo Ann HoltWhere do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.
I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.
Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp.
The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.
After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.
At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.
The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen.
The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getawayby Jo Ann HoltWhere do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event. (Sunrise on Dauphin Island) Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach. Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf. I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide. (Bellingrath Alabama Cruise) That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens. These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile. Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. (Bellingrath Gardens and home) In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river. After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife. (Holiday Lights at Bellingrath) While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S. The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home. While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. (Dauphin Island) The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather. I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back. For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine. After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted. (Fort Gaines) I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo. First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707. At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week. (Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home) That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs. The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen. (Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn) Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre. As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway By Jo Ann Holt Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event. (Sunrise on Dauphin Island) Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach. Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf. I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide. (Bellingrath Alabama Cruise) That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens. These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile. Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. (Bellingrath Gardens and home) In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river. After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife. (Holiday Lights at Bellingrath) While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S. The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home. While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. (Dauphin Island) The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather. I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back. For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine. After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted. (Fort Gaines) I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo. First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707. At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week. (Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home) That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs. The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen. (Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn) Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre. As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway By Jo Ann Holt Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event. (Sunrise on Dauphin Island) Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach. Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf. I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide. (Bellingrath Alabama Cruise) That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens. These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile. Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. (Bellingrath Gardens and home) In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river. After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife. (Holiday Lights at Bellingrath) While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S. The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home. While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. (Dauphin Island) The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather. I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back. For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine. After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted. (Fort Gaines) I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo. First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707. At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week. (Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home) That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs. The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen. (Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn) Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre. As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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137 Pound Dog Friendly Vacationby Roseann Benson
We began our trip by driving to Bar Harbor. It was a beautiful afternoon when we checked into the Rockhurst Motel (68 Mount Desert St) (207 288-3140), dog friendly lodging in close proximity to the Maine/Nova Scotia Ferry a high speed catamaran, also known as the “CAT.” As my husband checked in and I walked Cleo around the premises, a woman tried to bum a cigarette off of me. I also noticed several other nefarious characters lurking around. It called to mind “The Office” television episode where Jim and Pam stayed at a scary B&B, and Jim thought that there was a one in six chance that they would be killed before the night was over. Nonetheless, the Rockhurst was dog friendly, reasonably priced, and located within walking distance to downtown Bar Harbor. In Bar Harbor, it was refreshing that MANY of the businesses welcomed dogs, and not just the dog stores. Cadillac Mountain Sports (26 Cottage Street) permitted Cleo entry, so that both my husband and I could shop at the same time. Previously, I had only felt this welcome with Cleo in the decidedly dog town of Saratoga, NY. In fact, the Park Side Restaurant (185 Main Street), located directly down the street from the Rockhurst Motel, had a sign out in front inviting dogs and their owners. The service was excellent and the food was both reasonably priced and tasty. If you are interested in entering a store, it shouldn’t hurt to ask. The beach at the end of Main Street also allowed dogs. Before strolling back to Rockhurst, we stopped in the CAT office to check into the ferry using our passports and the reservation we made over the Internet. The CAT office, which is attached to the Nova Scotia tourism office, is located on the corner of Main and Cottage Street is dog friendly, also. When we returned to the motel the atmosphere was less daunting, as it looked to be at full capacity and many of the guests were walking their dogs around the grounds. Chatting it up with the other dog loving residents revealed that many of us would meet up on the ferry the next morning. During our short stay at the Rockhurst, it grew on us and, although we were initially spooked, we decided to keep our reservation when we returned from Nova Scotia. We left Rockhurst at 7:59 am and drove 1.31 miles to the Nova Scotia ferry. Since we checked into the CAT the previous evening in downtown Bar Harbor, we were waved passed the check in line and lined up to board the CAT at 8:03 am. Ah, the benefits of early CAT check in. The CAT does not charge for canine passage; however, your dog cannot enter the passenger deck. The two scary ferry-traveling options for your dog include staying in the CAT kennels or remaining in your car. You cannot travel with your pets on the lower deck. If you have a car, I would keep your dog there for the trip, so they at least have familiar surroundings. CAT employees understand your concern and will escort you down to the lower deck to visit your dog during the trip when they are not too busy. The trip is not easy on motion sickness prone humans, either. So, if you need to, ask your pharmacist what you can take over the counter to help you sprout some sea legs. The CAT itself features duty-free shopping, slot machines, movies, food, and beverages. There is also the beautiful view from the deck. When the ferry docked in Yarmouth, Nova Scotia, we were able to bring Cleo into Canada by presenting her rabies certificate and we were allowed to enter by showing our passports and completing the customs form.
and Port Maitland Beach (http://obpl.com/prt-mtlnd.html) - both beaches were pristine and breath taking. Port Maitland was more populated than Mavillette, but in no way over run. Cape Forchu Lighthouse, located a few miles outside of Yarmouth, allows dogs on the premises, as well. A fresh water option located fairly close to Churchill Mansion was Darling Lake and it was perfect for our purposes. Cleo’s mere presence attracts people to us, but throw in water training equipment and we became a temporary Nova Scotia attraction ourselves. At Darling Lake, a local family volunteered to help us train on two consecutive days. Nova Scotia also offers a seven day, non-resident, fresh water general fishing license for $23.00. Fishing is another great outdoor adventure for humans and canines alike. Many of Yarmouth’s shops close after five pm; however, drug stores, restaurants, and drinking establishments remain open. Unfortunately, the open container laws are rather strict and you cannot imbibe outside a restaurant or pub. This affects dog owners that are accustomed to throwing one or two back while sitting at an outdoor café. That said, there are some excellent dog friendly restaurants throughout the Yarmouth area. Cape View Restaurant off of Highway No. 1 on the Evangeline Trail was dog friendly. The view of Mavillette Beach from this venue’s outdoor seating was spectacular; however, this was lost on Cleo as she inhaled haddock. We all ate Cape View’s seafood the first visit and it was amazing, a later visit revealed that pizza is probably not their specialty. Another Cape View Cleo benefit was the proximity of Mavillette Beach, as it was a short walk to Cleo’ after dinner swim. Between Yarmouth and the Cape Forchu Lighthouse, Stanley Lobster Company on Route 304 is a lobster company where you eat fresh lobster, cooked as you wait, outdoors – 2die4! Well-behaved, obedient dogs are welcome. As feral cats walk fearlessly and unapologetically around the grounds, they can, understandably, stir a predatory instinct that is inappropriate in a restaurant setting. In addition, those cats are tough when challenged. It was an experience eating at Wilson’s Family Restaurant (351 Main Street) in downtown Yarmouth, because the proprietors recognized Cleo from our previous downtown Yarmouth trips. The fare was tasty, the service was excellent, and Cleo was given a hamburger gratis. South West Nova Scotia is very drivable and plenty of day trips are possible. Similar to Yarmouth, Digby, Annapolis, and Bear River possess dog friendly cultures. In Digby, Cleo met an entire military marching band. When we were walking through beautiful Annapolis Royal, a representative of Bainton's Tannery Outlet exited her store and asked if she could give Cleo water. The lady proceeded to bring out a huge bowl of water and a dog biscuit. When Cleo finished having her picture taken with other tourists, she was thrilled to have refreshments. Bear River Vineyards welcomed Cleo onto their cool floors and gave her a stick to chew on while we tasted wine.
We water trained daily with Cleo conveniently in front of the cabin, as the weather was great the entire trip. Jim continued to give his seven day fishing license a work out, as well. Unfortunately, we were not able to participate in the Trout Point’s nightly meals. This became a bigger deal than necessary, because, unless told otherwise, Trout Point assumed you were eating with them every night and would charge your bill accordingly. Cleo was not welcomed inside the main cabin nor was she allowed to eat with us outside on the main cabin’s patio. Bringing the meal back to the cabin was not an available option for us, either. Basically, they wanted us to confine our dog to our rented cabin during the dinners. Unfortunately, we interpreted “dog friendly’ differently than Trout Point and were horribly disappointed with their dining policies. We prepared our human and canine meals in our rented cabin’s kitchen and relaxed in our quiet seclusion, feeling slightly cheated. We wondered if Canadian star rating was based on seven rather than a five star scale.
Acadia is amazing and dogs are allowed with restrictions, the main restriction being short leashes. When you take in the rugged terrain, you will understand that short leashes are a very necessary Acadia safety precaution. If we go to Portland, ME during summer, we usually eat at Gritty Mc Duff's. They have great pub food and outdoor, dog friendly seating on a quiet street in back of the restaurant. Also, if we travel to Portland, ME any time of the year, we stop in at Old Port Wine Merchants for its wide selection of wine, liquor and cigars. Dogs of any size are also welcome in the establishment throughout the four seasons. WebsitesMaine/Nova Scotia Ferry: www.catferry.com Churchill Mansion: www.churchillmansion.com Mavillette Beach: http://obpl.com/mav-beach.html Cape Forchu Lighthouse: www.capeforchulight.com/welcome.htm Cape View Restaurant: www.capeviewrestaurant.com Stanley Lobster Company: www.stanleylobster.com Bainton's Tannery Outlet: www.baintons.ca Bear River Vineyards: www.wine.travel/.html Trout Point Lodge Wilderness Resort: www.troutpoint.com Gritty Mc Duff's: www.grittys.com Old Port Wine Merchants: www.oldportwine.com |
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Checking
into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters
would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to
walk on the pristine beach.
That
evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby
Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on
the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home,
with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.
In
the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most
prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the
river.
While
the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday
Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes
New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.
The
next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach,
although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the
terrific weather.
I
had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin
Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the
Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.
That
evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the
gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese,
with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood
specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal
Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red
snapper served with collard greens and ribs.
Sunday
morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by
fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short
but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.
Unless they begin
manufacturing an industrial grade purse, we will never be able to hide,
Cleo, our 137 pound Newfoundland.
After exiting the ferry,
it was an easy drive to our first dog friendly lodging, Churchill Mansion.
Churchill Mansion was
located close to a variety of fresh and salt water beaches and, as part of
the plan for this vacation was to train Cleo for her upcoming water tests,
we were glad to have our choice of training sites.
Trout Point Lodge
Wilderness Resort, adjacent to Nova Scotia’s Tobeatic Wilderness Area, was
our second dog friendly stop.
Upon our return to the
US, we stopped at Acadia National Park before continuing to Portland, Maine
and returning home.