El Salvador Guatemala Trip:
From 21st Century Resort To A Medieval City

by Habeeb Salloum

During our few days at the Decameron Salinitas, El Salvador’s only seaside luxury resort, we had gloried in its many 21st century facilities and relaxed in its serene atmosphere.  Now we were leaving this huge tourist paradise for La Antiqua or Antiqua – Guatemala’s ancient capital and one of the oldest cities established by the Spaniards in the New World. I was upbeat thinking of this trip from the ultra-modern to a medieval world of the past.

Half asleep we stumbled into our bus in the morning darkness. “This trip better be worthwhile!”, one of my fellow passengers remarked as we settled down in our seats.  I half smiled. For me his words did not ring a bell. For many years I had yearned to make a trip to Guatemala and explore La Antiqua and its rich history.

We followed the flat coastline on a two-lane highway through a tree-filled landscape until we reached the Guatemala border. In less than an hour of our departure we crossed the Rio Paz, marking the border between El Salvador and Guatemala.

At the customs post, it could have been the same scene from the early past at a Canadian-American border point. Travelers, truck drivers and custom officials were milling about, seemingly in a chaotic fashion. While I stood at the window waiting to have my passport checked, the custom official was playing solitaire on his computer. Apparently his card game was more important than the people standing in line and we had to wait.

Back on the bus, my seat companion, surveying the scene remarked: “It looks like the same land. The people look the same and they speak the same language, and I understand that they practice the same religion. Why are they two small countries?” The young man had a point. The half a dozen tiny Central American countries, labeled in North America as ‘Banana Republics’ had the hands of corrupt army generals and foreign intervention in their creation and exploitation – this is especially true when it relates to U.S. fruit companies.

Past the border, we entered a hilly countryside covered in greenery. The road was in much better condition than in El Salvador and the countryside looked somewhat more prosperous. As well the roadsides were clean – devoid of litter. Our guide explained that because tourism had come earlier to Guatemala, the infrastructure had been improved and the country was well on its way to becoming tourist friendly. On the other hand, it was only in 2004 that El Salvador had begun to concentrate on its tourist industry – hence the difference.

We moved on quickly through a landscape dotted with sugarcane fields. Compared to North America the road was almost devoid of traffic. Soon the hills gave way to a level countryside overshadowed in the distance volcanic mountains. This scene continued until we stopped in Escuinta, a prosperous modern-looking town, at the Restaurante Parquero for refreshments and a break in the journey.

Continuing upward in a valley we drove in the shadows of three volcanoes: two to the left – one active called Fuego (fire) and the other named Acatenango; and one on the right called Agua (Water). Now at some 1,500 m (4920 ft) above sea level as the air became cooler I opened the window and breathed the fresh air – feeling contentment. The landscape was now dotted with coffee trees. Germans who came here before the First World War first introduced coffee into the country.

Passing through Cuidad Vieja where the first cathedral in Central America was built we entered La Antiqua – the first capital of Spanish Central America and today one of the most visited places in Guatemala. It is one of the world’s best-preserved colonial cities and for those enamored with history it oozes allurement and magic. Its splendid Cathedral, convents and monasteries and fine Moorish-inspired colonial architecture, set in captivating green hilly surroundings give it a special enchantment. Travelers can experience the splendor of colonial times in this once third most important Spanish stronghold in the Americas.

I looked around and discovered that the streets were all cobblestone and that the buildings were all built in Spanish colonial style and no more than two stories high – today 90% of its buildings are owned by Americans. To me it seemed that if one had lived in this town some 300 years ago and should return today, not much would have changed. UNESCO declaring La Antiqua a ‘World Heritage Site’ in 1979 has done much to inspire the government to preserve the town as a medieval Spanish city. 

With Roberto our guide we began our tour of this tourist-oriented city at Plaza Mayor. Here we stood by the impressive Fuente de las Sirenas (Fountain of the Sirens), representing fertility, and watched the water gush out of the breasts of the mermaids while Roberto related the history of the city, which has a population of 41,000.

Where La Antiqua now stands saw Spanish presence in 1524 at the time when the Conquistadors began to push forward their conquest of the Americas. They established the city in 1543 as the capital of Spanish Central America, which today includes all the Central American countries up to the borders of Panama.  In later centuries the town was almost destroyed by the 1773 earthquake as well as later tremors. Many of its splendid structures were never rebuilt and today remain in ruins. The capital was moved to Guatemala City, 40 km (25 mi) away and La Antiqua became fossilized - a living museum steeped in Spanish American history.

Continuing our tour, we stopped first at the Ayuntamiento (City Hall) located on one side of Plaza Mayor and still humming with activity as it has been for hundreds of years then moved on to the opposite side of the Plaza to take of Palacio de los Capitanes – an impressive reminder of Spain.

The Cathedral, with an impressive baroque façade with mannerist and renaissance details, on the east side of the Plaza, was our most important stop. Most of this huge Cathedral remains in ruins. Only a small portion of the original was rebuilt after the earthquake.   According to Roberto, as the earth shook, the priest saw the people gathered in front of the Cathedral trembling in fear. He advised them to rush into the church and God would save them. Alas! Years later when some of the ruins were being removed many skeletons were found. He did not say if the priest had perished with his flock.

After examining a great deal of architecture remaining from Spanish times, we ended our tour at the ruins of Las Capuchinas (the Capuchin Convent). We toured the vestiges as Roberto explained the harsh treatment the Mayan maidens had suffered when they were forced to become nuns.  He pointed to the tiny cells where the young girls were punished when they erred and then remarked, “The girls’ diet consisted of beans, corn and rice year-round and only one day a year were they allowed to eat meat – on the bishop’s birthday.”

The tale of these young girls is only a part of the wrongs endured by the indigenous peoples of former Spanish America and who still suffer today.  Even though 60% to 70% of Guatemala’s current population are Mayan, they are not in the seat of power and still suffer discrimination. In neighboring El Salvador in the 1930’s, the indigenous inhabitants of the country were almost totally wiped out by a series of exterminations under the dictator/general Maximiliano Hernandez Martinez. Today according to our guide only 1% of the country’s population is indigenous.

With Roberto’s description of the sad fate of the Mayan maidens ringing in our ears, we walked to Las Antorchas Restaurant for an excellent meal then stopped for a while at a jade factory specializing in Mayan jade handicrafts.  Soon afterward, sated with both food and history we set out on our four-hour return journey. As I relaxed in my comfortable seat, I reflected on our day of exploration. It was a day of discovery travel and historic exhilaration intermixed with historic sadness – all in all a fulfilling journey. 

IF YOU GO

Facts about Guatemala and El Salvador:

Both Guatemala and El Salvador require passports valid for at least six months for nationals from all countries, but for nationals from Canada, the USA and a number of other countries visas are not required for short stays.

The currency of Guatemala is the Quetzal – 1. US Dollar = 7.8 Guatemalan Quetzal.  In El Salvador the US dollar has been the legal currency since 2001. 

For hotels in La Antiqua, check this website: http://www.smartstays.com/la-antigua-guatemala/

Most of the food in both Guatemala and El-Salvador are similar to the well-known Mexican cuisine. Cost of meals - budget: US$3-8; mid-range to deluxe: US$8-30 or more.

Most restaurants add a 10 percent tip to the bill but some tipping is expected. Tip bellboys and chambermaids about US$1. per day per person; tour guides, US$3-5 per day per person.

With more than 75 Spanish language schools, La Antigua is among Latin America's best cities in which to study Spanish. As well these schools have options to stay with families.

The nightlife in La Antiqua is varied and exciting. Bars, discos and pubs open every day and are excellent places to meet people from all around the world.

Students and tourists staying in La Antiqua have many choices for trips outside the city such as visiting coffee and macadamia farms and nearby colorful villages.

The best time to visit both Guatemala and San Salvador is during the dry season, from November to April.  However, the weather is pleasant year-round – Guatemala is labeled ‘Land of Eternal Spring’.

Remember a $33. Departure Tax is applicable when leaving Guatemala and a $32.15 Departure Tax is applicable when leaving El Salvador.

Some of the Other Important Tourist Attractions in La Antiqua:

Church of La Merced, originally built in 1548, it features an intricately patterned yellow and white baroque-styled facade. Inside the ruins of the once-attached monastery stands the enormous Fuente de Pescados (Fountain of the Fish).

Casa K'ojom, a museum focusing on Mayan music, ceremonies, related artifacts and handicraft as well as musical instruments of the pre-Colonial era and those introduced by the Spaniards.

Universidad de San Carlos, founded in 1676 and housing the Museo de Arte Colonial, it is considered one of the most beautiful, intact examples of colonial architecture featuring a fine courtyard surrounded by Moorish arches.

For More Information, Contact:

In Guatemala: Guatemala Tourist Office
7a Avenida 1-17
zona 4, Centro Cívico
Guatemala City, Guatemala
Postal Address: Apartado postal 1020-A, 001004 Guatemala City, Guatemala. 
Tel: +502 (0) 331 1333. Fax: +502 (0) 331 4416. 
Email: inguat@guate.net  In El Salvador: 

Corporación Salvadorea de Turismo,
Blvd. del Hipódromo #508
Col. San Benito, San Salvador, El Salvador.
Tel: +503 243-7835. Fax: +503 243-0427. 
Email: corsatur@salnet.net
Web site: http://www.elsalvadorturismo.gob.sv/