El Nido, Philippine Tropical Paradise,
Has It All For Travelers World wide
by Larry Taylor
 El Nido – absolutely the
world’s best tropical island getaway. Located in the Philippine’s
Palawan
Islands, it is actually
two resorts, each located a short boat ride from the other. And, what’s
more, it is a terrific bargain for American travelers. That’s my opinion,
and I’ve visited island getaways worldwide.
Among its many virtues – room accommodations rank with the world’s most
highly rated resort hotels; an international menu features delicious
selections; activities offered satisfy the most adventurous, as well as
those seeking relaxation and pampering. All this is included at prices much
less than would be expected in international destinations of the same
caliber.
El Nido’s locations are on Miniloc and Lagen islands, a 75-minute flight
from Manila plus a 45-minute
boat ride from El Nido Village Airport. The Palawans, as a whole, consist of
some 1,780 islands and islets, most with rocky coves and white sandy
beaches. On our flight there, descending we saw a breathtaking panorama of
scattered green dots of land in a turquoise and blue sea.
 Both locations, less than
an hour boat ride apart, are equally excellent. It’s a good idea to
split your time, staying at both during a stay. Miniloc is the oldest.
Constructed in 1981, it is built right off the beach, shaded by palms trees
and framed by a backdrop of sheer limestone cliffs. In front, the warm,
crystal clear waters teem with tropical fish.
Both have 50 air-conditioned rooms. Miniloc’s feature thatched roofs,
built with indigenous Filipino materials. Some are over water; others are on
the sand. In the rear are garden and cliff cottages nestled high on
the hillside. All face the bay.
In Lagen, many of the rooms are set in a lush forest, several yards from
the beach and pier. The sprawling grounds cover more than 400,000 square
feet and contain a diverse variety of birds and mammals. A great place for
birders and hikers.
Built in 1998, Lagen offers more amenities, including a swimming pool and
spa suite. Its dining room is enclosed, although there is plentiful seating
on the outside veranda which overlooks both the sea and the pool. Here,
there are also a variety of accommodations – water cottages built on stilts,
beachfront units with excellent sunset views and rooms on edges of the
forest
 Most guests prefer to
dine al fresco. When skies are clear at Miniloc, dinner is served on the
beach in front of the bay. To serve breakfast and lunch,
Minoloc’s large veranda dining area. hovers above the shoreline and offers a
gorgeous view of the bay. In Lagen, most choose the pool-side dinner
service. During dinner, an activity coordinator visits guests to schedule
activities for the next day. Among options are diving and snorkeling (many
islands and spots minutes away), sea kayaking (including boat
drop-offs near secluded islands), rock climbing (20 bolted sites to choose
from), hiking (monkeys or Palawan hornbills abound), fishing (to nearby
spots, boats leaving mornings and afternoon) and boat excursions (visiting
romantic coves with lunch stops). So many options – or just relax on the
beach under an umbrella lounge. It’s a great place for kids, by the way.
Families on kayaking expeditions are a common sight.
Snorkeling at El Nido
We are avid snorkelers. and most evenings we selected which of many prime
locations we would visit the next day. We were even provided with our own
snorkeling guides who stayed with us at each resort – Chito Socito at
Minoloc and Refael Dalabujan at Lagen. The two knew exactly where to go and
pointed out many fish and corals we would have missed.
Usually we were taken on two snorkels in the morning at different
locations. Afterwards, we went back to the resort for lunch or went to small
islands with a barbecue station where we served with
fresh-caught fish, as well as chicken or pork. Following the ample meal, we
needed a nap before the usual afternoon snorkel. Ah, the island life!
 On our last afternoon, we
took the trail at the back of Lagen that led through the forest to a private
cove. It was steep but there was a rope installed on the path to help
us climb the slopes and steady us during descent. Along the way a family of
long-tailed macaque monkeys greeted us from up in the trees. They seemed to
taunt us, vigorously shaking leaves from limbs onto the path.
 The trail ended on the
beach, and Rafael was there with our snorkel equipment which had been
delivered by boat. After resting, we set out for the spectacular hour-long
snorkel back to the resort. The route was along a wall, giving us views of
gorgeous corals and sea life. We saw many vanities of colorful wrasse,
several pennant fish as well as varied species of butterfly fish. We were
amazed by varied colors of “clown” fish which had adapted to the
shade of the anemone they lived in. Upon reaching the pier, we were worn out
but exhilarated by our adventurous day.
As well, at both locations, we enjoyed going in the water just off the
beach. In Minoloc, late morning, we were met by a school of large jack
fish, joining us as we swam under the boat landing, At Lagen, beneath
some plate coral, we found a family of oriental sweet lips, which included
the bizarrely decorated juvenile.
 One of the most
interesting things at El Nido is to talk to fellow travelers from around the
world. At sunset, at the bar with a group of Russians, we discussed
the merits of vodka and beer. On a snorkel trip, with a Frenchman, we
talked about President Sarkozy’s policies.
Filipinos make up half those visiting the resort, followed in numbers by
Koreans and Japanese. From Asian cities, it is only a few hours flight.
(Flying to the resort on the small plane from
Manila, there were 12 passengers – us and five Korean
couples honeymooning,)
There was also a significant number of Australian and European guests. We
only saw a few from the
United States, however. The 14-hour flight
from Los Angeles
can be daunting. We think, though, that Americans should take a new look at
the Philippines and El Nido. I repeat
–there is no better tropical vacation spot. And consider the price--rates
average about $200 per person, per night (all inclusive).
Short Visit to Manila
 After El Nido, we
decided to stay two days in Manila.
On a previous Philippine visit, we decided not to visit this capitol which
we perceived as congested and unappetizing This time we opted for a short
stay. As expected, the drive was traffic-clogged to our destination, the
excellent Mandarin Oriental, located among tall skyscrapers in the Makati financial district. We could tell at
once that this was a thriving cosmopolitan city.
For dinner first night, the concierge recommended Grappa’s Italian
restaurant. It was located in the Greenbelt, a tourist destination in itself,
offering a mix of shops, restaurants and entertainment spots. She said
it was only a 20-minute walk. A remark such as this should set off a
warning note to veteran travelers who know to be wary of time estimates.
”Just a few minutes” can turn into a 45-minute nightmare. Needles s to
say this is what happened to us.
It was a hot night and, midway on the walk, we regretted not taking a
taxi. We soldiered on and found the mall. (Another point – malls in America can be
confusing but in a foreign country, more so.) Nearly all Filipinos speak
English, so, after asking several bystanders and security people, we made
it. After reviving ourselves with Pellegrino water, we had very good
eggplant Parmesan and ravioli. Overall, it ended up a good experience.
The next morning we were having breakfast while checking guide books for
where to go, when an British couple overheard us. They chimed in, saying
that they highly recommended Carlos Celdran and his “If These Walls Could
Talk” tour of Intramuros, the old city of Manila. We took
their suggestion. Hotel people seconded our choice, booking us for 4 p.m.. (The fame of Celdran was
emphasized when we returned home. We were in a group that included a woman
with Philippine roots. She said that she had taken the tour.)
After breakfast, we decided to go to the
Ayala
Museum, which happened to
be adjacent to the Greenbelt.
We had no qualms now about walking there. We did, however, have to forego
visiting the acclaimed
National
Museum, across town,
because of time constraints. The Ayala, with its permanent collection
of contemporary Filipino artists and a diorama on the country’s
history and culture, is an excellent place to learn more about the
country.
That afternoon at the gates of
Fort
Santiago, the colorful
Celdran greeted us in top hat and shorts, carrying a speaker and a satchel
of props. His theatrical style and witty, articulate presentation, made the
2-1/2 hour walk, both enjoyable and informative.
 About half in our group
of 27 were Filipinos, eager to learn more history of their country. They
joined in as Carlos put on the Philippine national anthem, while twirling
the Philippine flag.
Following a quick lesson in the origins of the Filipino national
language, Tagalog, we were led to the impressive statue of Santiago
Matamoros (St. James the Moorslayer, Spanish patron saint).
Here, we were told about
Spain’s occupation from the 17th through
the 19th Century. Celdran believed, this resulted in the corrupt control of
the country by evangelical Catholic priests. As he talked, he
role-played various Spaniards and friars, skewering frailties with his sharp
remarks.
The Filipinos cheered when Celdran brought in national hero Jose Rizal
whose memorial is in the adjacent
Rizal
Park. He was a writer
whose anti- government novels helped bring citizens to revolt in the late
1800s.
At this point, horse-drawn carriages were brought to convey the group to
the Cathedral of San Augustin. Along the way we saw the rest of the old
Intramuros buildings which many would come back to see on their own.
 San Augustin is one of
the few buildings to survive intact the World War II bombings. It was opened
in 1606 and has an adjoining monastery which now houses a museum, containing
many valuable colonial religious paintings.
Beginning his final section which detailed U.S.
occupation, Celdran emerged in Uncle Sam regalia while the “Star
Spangled Banner” played. Coming to World War II, he then donned a general’s
hat, dark glasses and stuck a corncob pipe in his mouth, morphing into
Douglas MacArthur, America ‘s leader of the
Pacific campaign. Suffice it to say he was hilarious as he lampooned
the general’s egocentric behavior.
San Augustin is also the site of a memorial for those killed in the Manila 1945 bombing by U.AS. planes to counter Japanese
atrocities taking place in the capitol. Celdran went into a serious mode,
talking about the tragic consequences of the event. .
The tour finished on a lighter note dealing with Philippine history
following the war when it gained independence. This section centered on the
controversial Ferdinand Marcos, president from 1965 through 1986. Of
course, Celdran slyly mentioned Marcos’ wife, Imelda, and her
extravagances which included a collection of 3,000 shoes. Ironically, he
pointed out, it was her fund-raising prowess that is largely
responsible for the restoration of Intramuros.
To conclude the tour, we all sat down and were treated to a “halo- halo,”
the national drink. It is made from a rainbow mixture of sweet preserved
bean, coconut, jackfruit, yam, plantain, cream, and milk.
Crushed ice is added, and it is served in clear glass, a colorful
multi-layered sight. Celdran said that the drink’s array of
ingredients are symbolic of the Filipino people – a mixture of many
different ethnic groups.
Reluctantly, we had to leave next day, emphasizing that our stay had been
all too short. Once past congestion from the airport,
Manila
is certainly worth several days stay.
www.elnidoresorts.com;
www.mandarinoriental.com/manila
For Carlos Celdran’s tour, the cost is approximately $24
celdrantours@hotmail.com
Photos by Gail Taylor
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