“In Ireland – Where There’s Smoke, There’s Salmon”

by Dona Bauer

We were delighted to discover Burren Smokehouse and Visitor Centre located in tiny Lisdoonvarna at the heart of western Ireland’s gourmet food capital.  Peter and Birgitta Curtin run this family-owned business that’s gaining international acclaim for their award-winning Smoked Irish Salmon.   The home-produced Organic Smoked Irish Salmon was featured at the recent Dublin Royal Dinner for Queen Elizabeth as well as being the highlight of a summer luncheon for members of the United States Congress.   (We ran into a Congressman’s wife who was purchasing salmon to take back to her friends and family.)  In addition, Fortnum & Mason will soon be offering the Burren Organic Smoked Salmon under their F&S private label. 

“All salmon smoked and sold at Burren Smokehouse are from local waters along this bucolic Irish coastline where there is no pollution,” Birgitta informed us.  The distinctive flavor is a result of the unique climate and pristine waters in County Clare.  The Curtains’ family history of smoking fish and game combined with their patented oven give the salmon its exceptional flavor and tenderness.  As a result, visitors are flocking to this artisan establishment and orders are pouring in from around the globe.

Master Smoker Peader Reilly conducts quality control inspections of each catch to ensure the raw material is first class.   Using two methods of smoking - cold and hot – create products that vary dramatically in texture and flavor.  Sampling each variety, it was difficult to choose a favorite as they were both delectable.   Birgitta emphasized, “Oak has been used for smoking in Ireland since ancient times.  We use red oak shavings to generate the smoke and to give our smoked salmon a distinctive flavor.”

With an eye on ecotourism, the Curtins are committed to offering certified organic fish.  Their products are cured using a process that separates smoke from fire and then leads that smoke directly into the smokehouse.  Temperatures are expertly controlled to yield each variety of salmon be it hot smoked, lukewarm, or cold smoked.  Confirming that all their suppliers honor their dedication to sustainability and environmental care and then hand-preparing and hand-slicing each fish exemplifies the Curtin’s devotion to excellence.

We were pleased to discover the Burren Smokehouse also includes smoked cheeses from some of Clare’s renowned cheese makers, local honeys and fruit wines.  Irish art, jewelry, knitwear, music and numerous other unique products also showcase native artists. 

After leaving the Smokehouse, we had a delightful evening at the nearby Roadside Tavern, owned and managed by Peter Curtin.  We sampled his robust designer ales, and enjoyed the friendly atmosphere, music and craic in the pub where the Curtin’s smoked salmon was first served.  With live music seven nights a week during the summer, this picturesque pub has become a legendary venue for traditional music for over a century.  We’ll be returning frequently. 

For an authentic taste of Ireland’s culinary initiatives, include Burren Smokehouse and Visitor Centre as well as The Roadside Tavern on your itinerary. 

Know before you go. 

Lisdoonvarna is 54 km from Shannon airport, about a 45-minute drive.   Nearby sites include the Cliffs of Moher and The Burren.  An interesting time to visit is in September when Lisdoonvarna hosts an annual Matchmakers Festival that draws contestants from all over the world. 

The Burren Smokehouse:|
www.burrensmokehouse.ie
email:  info@burrensmokehouse.ie
Kincora Road,
Lisdoonvarna, Co. Clare, Ireland
Tel:  +353 (0)65 707 4432
Fax:  +353 (0)65 707 4303

The Roadside Tavern:
www.roadsidetavern.ie
email:  roadsidetavern@gmail.com
Kincora Road,
Lisdoonvarna, Co. Clare, Ireland
Tel: +353 (0)65 707 4084
Fax: +353 (0)65 707 4303 

Photos by Dona Bauer