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More Chardonnays to Try

By Darryl Beeson

Chardonnay, the white wine grape that originated in the Burgundy region of France has taken on a whole new meaning when grown in California. The fruit flavors are bigger and the oak nuance from the barrels is more apparent. This is part two of a list of recently examined chardonnays.

Patz & Hall Chardonnay,Napa 1997
Price       $20
Rating     92

Paints your throat with luxurious complexity. Bright yellow color and pristine crispness.

"We were inspired by the classic Burgundian model of hands-on control for small vineyard sites and small lot, barrel by barrel winemaking," says partner and winemaker James Hall. "Our winery is dedicated to making rich, complex wines from low-yielding, cool-climate vineyards located in a variety of appellations including Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino and Monterey. Patz & Hall has a refined focus to include small production, single vineyard wines, while expanding their portfolio to include ten different bottlings of six elegant Chardonnays and four stunning Pinot Noirs. The wines project our distinctive style of layered complexity, purity and balance, while highlighting the individual terroir of selective vineyard sites."

Serve this complex white with simpler cuisine, i.e. baked chicken with herbs, so that the complexities of the wine can shine. For more information, go to www.patzhall.com.

Michaud Chardonnay, Chalone 2000
Price       $33
Rating     89

Delicate aromas of cilantro, with flavors of very ripe apple and cinnamon. This is a very light styled white wine and is more subtle than the usual California chardonnay.

"A youthful charmer, this well focused wine showcases a great vintage," says proprietor and wine maker Michael Michaud. "The appellation's characteristic terroir frames bright nectarine, peach and apricot flavors. Well balanced, rich and multi-layered, with fresh acidity, it complements a wide array of food." Michaud got his feet (and he adds, most of the rest of him wet) via 19 years experience in winegrowing and winemaking at Chalone Vineyard and on his estate near the Chalone Vineyard ranch. In January of 1998, he left Chalone to pursue the further development of the family owned vineyard full-time.brings a lifetime of talent, experience and hard work, striving for the finest expression of the unique Chalone Appellation, in 28 acres of vineyards he planted and farms himself. Michaud adds that the Director of Vineyard Security is "Wanda the Wonder Dog."  To learn more, visit www.michaudvineyard.com.

Domaine Chandon Chardonnay, Carneros 2001
Price       $32
Rating     90

Delicate aromas of apple butter, toasted pop corn kernels, and nice white fruit, then flavors of delicate floral/citrus and soft complex apple.

"After releasing the inaugural 2000 vintage to good acclaim, Domaine Chandon is proud to release our second vintage of Carneros chardonnay," proclaims wine maker Wayne Donaldson. "As the only white grape in the 'holy trio' of Champagne varieties, chardonnay has always played an integral part of our sparkling wine blends. Much of our expertise with chardonnay comes from our Carneros ranch where we pioneered the region, now widely recognized for producing world-class chardonnay." The winemaking approach is more Burgundian than Californian, crafting an elegant and complex white wine by focusing on the balance and harmony of fruit expression, subtle oak, and refreshing acidity.

Domaine Chandon's Executive Chef Eric Torralba suggests serving the Carneros chardonnay with grilled prawns, lobster bisque, ginger chicken, or sea bass in Thai green curry. For other details, go to www.chandon.com.

Marcelina Chardonnay, Carneros 2001
Price       $20
Rating     90

Big aromas and big flavors. Tropical salt water taffy, oak, melon on the nose then flavors of cinnamon, cedar, Crème Brulée in a powerful, long length. This was one of the biggest selling chardonnays when I was cellar master at The Mansion on Turtle Creek.Pair this complex, big-flavored white with grilled seafood in a tropical sauce containing lime and island spice.

Coastal Valley Cellars, Chardonnay California 2001
Price       $14
Rating     88

A closed nose with bare hints of apple and pear, then flavors of stewed, very ripe fruit.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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