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Three Diverse Red Wines For Early Fall

By Darryl Beeson

These three California reds offer jammy concentration and interesting food pairing possibilities.

Lolonis "Ladybug Red" Mendocino 2001
Price $12
Rating 89

A search for “old vine” on the Wine Spectator Magazine web site returns over 200 results. “The number of wineries promoting ‘old vines’ on their labels has increased dramatically over the past ten years,” says Lolonis Winery vice president and general manager Phillip Lolonis, “but there really aren’t any standards for how old is old.”

Lolonis Winery used the “old vines” moniker on its labels for the first time this year, but the family started growing grapes in Mendocino County’s Redwood Valley in the 1920s. They still make wine from vineyards planted in the 1950s. “We used some of the oldest Carignane and Zinfandel vines in Redwood Valley this year to make a blend we call Ladybug Red,” said Lolonis, “so I felt it was indeed time to put ‘old vines’ on the label.”

Carignane is a late-ripening red grape that many Italian immigrants in Mendocino County historically used (along with Zinfandel) to make their simple red table wines. Back when wine quantity was more important than wine quality, Carignane’s high yields often made it the choice for producing every-day reds. But as grape vines age, yields decline, concentrating flavors and making better wine. Most of the California wines labeled as “old vines” are made from Zinfandel or Carignane.

The lower yields of old vines, sometimes as low as one ton or less per acre (compared with up to 10 tons per acre for young vines in some growing areas), mean that the grapes are proportionally more expensive. “But it makes sense to spend more to get more concentrated flavors,” says Lolonis. Lolonis’ Ladybug Red is 68% old vine Carignane. Ladybug Red is named for the ladybugs that Lolonis Winery releases in the vineyard every year to help control aphids and scale insects. It is velvety and fruit forward, going well with most any brunch dish or maybe pasta. This wine sells out quickly at the winery, so watch for it when released into limited distribution. As an organic grape grower since the 1950s, Lolonis is opposed to the use of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers. More information is at www.lolonis.com (help in this review was provided by Rusty Eddy).

EOS Zinfandel, Paso Robles 2001
Price $17
Rating 90

"A consistently great varietal in the Paso Robles appellation, we feel this particular vintage takes Paso Robles Zinfandel to new heights," says EOS director of winemaking, Steve Felten, "We knew we had an outstanding zinfandel in 2001 even before the crop was harvested. Normally uneven, this vintage showed uniform ripeness and color, with dark, soft berries and minimal raisining. We focused on precise techniques such as maximum yet gentle extraction by alternating cap irrigations with punch downs, and used only 25% new oak to enhance flavors without adding harsh wood tannins."

"This well-balanced zinfandel has the finesse and complexity to serve with a wide range of summer and winter fare. Here In Paso Robles, we enjoy the barbecue season, where garden fresh herbed grilled vegetables and marinated beef tri-tip roasts bask on the grill, screaming for the perfect zinfandel to accompany," says Felton. "Blossomy aromas of raspberry, blueberry and currant are enhanced by fennel and pepper spices, traditional for our terroir. Rich and lush, the flavors are bright berry and malt, and the lengthy finish is satiny smooth."

He advises that this red is ideal for sipping with friends, though it is well-balanced enough to serve with a wide range of cuisine, especially pasta dishes or creamy, chocolate desserts. Zinfandel is best enjoyed young, though this concentrated red may age a bit further. Visit www.eosvintage.com for further information.

William Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa 1999
Price $38
Rating 92

This very ripe and ready red is a blend primarily of cabernet sauvignon with 5% merlot and 3% petit verdot, all from Napa Valley. "The 1999 growing season in Napa was one of the windiest and latest to begin on record," observes winemaker Tina Mitchell. "Fruit quality was very high. The William Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is a complex wine with rich, lush fruit flavors and round plush tannins. Notes of cedar, vanilla and cassis compliment the aromas and flavors of dark berry fruit. Enjoy this red now, or continue to age for a decade or more."

The producers suggest that this wine pairs well with roasted meats, rich stews or tomato based sauces. Dishes such as grilled lamb chops served over a bed of creamy polenta and sautéed greens, bacon wrapped filet mignon with truffle infused mashed potatoes, or a rich three cheese lasagna could be a success. For more information, visit www.williamhillwinery.com.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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