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Montana Magic

A tale of dreams coming true. 

By Ursula Maxwell-Lewis

Rarely can one claim to have ridden the rails to Paradise and back - particularly with Santa and his missus. This delightful introduction to the Christmas season only proved that you never know who you might bump into onboard an antique train in the heartland of Lewis and Clark.

Paradise (population 184 on Thursday) is an easy train ride from Missoula, Montana. The Claus duo and I rubbed shoulders onboard the 1950-s era streamliner - better known as the Montana Daylight Christmas Train.  The jolly 'old' couple reminisced about rail travel, the romantic history of the old west, and traveling in Montana. Being a unique brand of travelers, the Claus' had their fair share of tales to tell as we companionably clickety-clacked along the tracks in relaxed comfort.

Operating seasonally along Montana's Northern Pacific Railroad - a route which was established in the 1880's - the Montana Rocky Mountain Rail Tours Daylight train has earned it's own place in history.

Geared to showcase Montana of yesteryear, the Daylight does it well from it's classic exterior, to the refurbished 1950's-themed interior.  To ensure visitors fall under the spell of Montana, the unique silver train slowed down along the Missoula-Paradise route to allow personable, well-informed narrators time to share the low-down on local history, economics and anecdotes.  Passengers stepped out onto open vestibules between carriages for a breath of fresh air, while vying for classic train photos as we snaked around curves. The 'Big Sky' dome car allowed unobstructed 360 degree views, while the well-appointed club car below offered a more Agatha Christie sort of feel with over stuffed chairs, coffee tables and so on.  Stress-free casual elegance was the key to this trip.

Trains are the stuff of dreams and yarns, so it was quite fitting that I should meet Theresa Cox, Executive Director of 'A Carousel for Missoula', while dining on-board the Daylight. The following day I would visit Theresa's 'pet' project, and understand her delight in the Carousel's charm. In the meantime, bathed in the glowing lights of the old dining car, she told me the following tale.

When a carousel was discovered, Missoula cabinetmaker Chuck Kaparich was persuaded to restore it - on the condition that it was loved and cared for forever.

"If you will give it a home, and promise no one will ever take it apart, I will build a carousel for Missoula," he told Missoula City Council in 1991. Council agreed. And that's exactly what he did.

Theresa explained: "A board of directors was formed to facilitate organization and fund raising. Kaparich taught others to carve. Mechanics began the process of restoring 16,066 pieces. Painters were recruited. And, soon, Missoula citizens began working together to create a treasure."

She continued, "By opening day, May 27, 1995, over 100,000 hours of volunteer time had gone into the construction of 38 permanent ponies, three replacement ponies, two chariots, 14 gargoyles, gargoyle frames and mirror frames, plus the largest band organ in continuous use in the United States. The entire gem was housed within a 'jewel box' building."

Pride and affection were obvious as Theresa talked of the volunteer hours, services, materials and encouragement generated by the project which was officially named, 'A Carousel for Missoula'.

"School children collected over one-million pennies to adopt four ponies," she told me. "Lasting friendships were formed even as far afield as Alberta where Calgary's Midnight Rose Carvers built a friendship horse for the project". Missoula's Carousel took on a life of it's own, and even today continues to spin an invisible web of warmth and goodwill.

But the real secrets lie within the 38 horses.

For example, Columbia Belle - the lead horse - is a tribute to the blessings bestowed on the children of a local family's Irish immigrant grandparents.  An American flag is tucked under Columbia Belle's saddle blanket, an angel is carved behind the saddle, and shamrocks decorate the bridle.  The halter is fitted with two red and blue 100-year-old jewels.

Leo the Lionheart, another dashing steed, was carved by a supporter who suffered a serious arm injury in January, 1994. Leo is the Missoula Lions Clubs' horse.  For his carver, Jim Dunlap, the project was both therapeutic and creative.            "When I see Leo proudly making his rounds with a joyful rider, I think about how we got better together," he once told Theresa. "I suspect the same is true for all of us who were fortunate enough to work on the carousel. In one way or another, we all got better together."

Missoula magic should have been complete when the Carousel began whirling past the traditional brass ring. But it wasn't.

"What's next?" asked the townsfolk.

"Dragons!" cheered the kids.

And so, in time, Dragon Hollow materialized. But for that story you'll have to check the website at http://www.carrousel.com. Dragon Hollow is a children's playground with the most charming dragons ...and all the right trimmings. This is just one more hint of the many stories tucked away for tourists to discover in legendary Montana. Dragon Hollow, located right next to the Carousel, is priceless (free) of course. Could you put a price tag on a child's dream?  Never!

Riding the Carousel costs $1, or fifty cents - depending on whether you are over 55 years old.  But my guess is that Theresa never checks I.D.

When you visit Missoula, please note: neither the Carousel, nor the Daylight train, are available all year round.  Please the check schedules in both cases before you go.   

For more information on more Montana Rockies Rail Tours ask your local agent, or check the web at http://www.montanarailtours.com

To learn about Montana, surf http://visitmt.com or call 1-800-VISITMT.

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