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TM
The Flavors of Southern Italy
By Erica De Mane
Reviewed by Marty Martindale
“I
am convinced that the foods a person cooks best embrace the flavors he or
she grew up with. All the recipes in this book reflect my childhood. This is
a very personal collection of recipes and thoughts on cooking, all anchored
by the flavors of southern Italy.” This is the opening statement in DeMane’s
introduction. This came as a surprise to your reviewer who found many
recipes not usually associated with Italian cuisine. “I hope my love of
southern Italian flavors and eating and cooking will rub off on you,” she
ends.
Glancing at the Contents, DeMane devotes 64 pages to
lining out various techniques which set Italian cuisine apart from other
foods. She pairs certain ingredients: Fennel and Saffron, Pancetta and
Salami, Pine Nuts and Raisins, Tomato Paste and Sun-Dried Tomatoes and more.
These pairing are a tip-off of what’s to come. In addition to the usual
sections on Seafood, Soups and Pasta, she includes one on Savory Tarts,
Pizza Neapolitan Style, also Calzone. After Desserts, she shares special
menus and her take on “My Favorite Southern Italian Wines.”
Here are some of the recipes she includes in this
complete book:
Wheat Berries with Zucchini, Pine Nuts and Ricotta
Plum Tomatoes Baked with Caprino, Rosemary and Black
Olives (Caprino is the Italian word for goat cheese)
Baked Eggs with Winter Tomato Sauce
Coleslaw with Sicilian Flavors
(these include pine nuts, raisins, peperoncino chili,
sugar and nutmeg)
Tuna Tatare Crostini with Capers and Avacado
Mussels with Mascarpone, Green (shoots) Garlic and
Spring Herbs
Steak and Celery Salad with Capers and Romaine
Duck Pizzaiola with Red Vermouth
Pizza with Escarole, Fontina and Baked Eggs
Chicken Soup with Pumpkin, Escarole and Marsala
Dried Figs with Almonds and Chocolate
The arrangement of recipes in menus at the end of the
book are clearly foods expertly prepared for other fine Italian cooks. She
closes the book with a menu she titles, “A Birthday Dinner for Myself,” and
which “I cook myself … since I cook with all the flavors I love best, always
including anchovies, cheese and luscious red wine.”
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