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Cool Wines for hot August
By Darryl Beeson
The following white wines sooth and offer relief, no
matter the heat.
Rancho Zabaco Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River 2003
Price $18
Rating 90
A sniff gives aromas of fresh herbs and maybe some
grassiness along with lime zest, grapefruit and tropical elements. The first
taste is full of crisp acidity. There is a first layer of mineral, then soft
grapefruit, red bell pepper, Asian pear, and more through the long, complex
length. More information can be found at
www.ranchozabaco.com.
Carmenet Sauvignon Blanc, California 2002
Price $7
Rating 88
This wine is a refreshing sip. First comes ripe melon,
fig, a squeeze of citrus, along with apple or pear richness. It doesn't
follow the usual flavor profile of Sauvignon Blanc. It is very tasty,
though. Learn more at
www.carmenetwinery.com.
Toasted Head Chardonnay, Russian River 2002
Price $17
Rating 90
Apple and citrus lead in the sip, laced with nice
nuances of zesty spice. The oak flavors are apparent, but not overwhelming.
Sur lie aging (leaving the wine in contact with the spent yeast; stirring
occasionally to derive the complex aromas and flavors from the decaying
yeast cells) takes this assertive white wine a notch further. Toasted Head
wines represents what R.H. Phillips considers to be their best efforts.
Named for the toasted-head barrels in which the wines are aged (normal
barrels are fire toasted within the sides, but not the top and bottom, i.e.
the heads), the striking label features artist Robert Shetterly's drawing of
a fire-breathing bear. Find out more at
www.rhphillips-hogue.com.
Geyser Peak Winery Chardonnay, Sonoma 2002
Price $12
Rating 91
"A bright, fruit-driven wine with a crisp acid kick,"
boasts winemaker Mick Schroeter, "this is classic Geyser Peak Chardonnay.
The wines lifted aromas of pear and tropical fruit burst out of the glass."
Lots of ripe fruit flavors abound, such as melon and green apple. The sip is
weighty and crisp. Geyser Peak Winery suggests pairing this bold white wine
with veal Piccata, swordfish Nicoise or Virginia crab cakes. Visit their
website at
www.geyserpeakwinery.com.
Anapamu Chardonnay, Monterey 2002
Price $14
Rating 90
The Pacific ocean is a big influence upon the wines
from Monterey. The grape growing season is the longest of all the premium
regions in California. The longer "hang-time" improves the quality of the
grapes. This well crafted Chardonnay is rich, showing restraint, and loaded
with ripe fruit elements. Look for pear, citrus, melon, fig along with zesty
spice and tropical fruit additions. The oak barrel aging imparts a toasty
vanilla dimension.
Frei Brothers Reserve Chardonnay, Russian River 2002
Price $15
Rating 92
Ripe and concentrated fruit aromas and flavors are this
white wine's. Some say less is more. I say, less can bore. This toasty,
spicy Chardonnay is packed with a spectrum of fruit experiences.
Rancho Zabaco Pinot Gris, Sonoma Coast 2003
Price $18
Rating 90
Soft, inviting aromas of white peach, ripe melon, and
other interestingly ripe fruit nuances combine to give this refreshing white
wine a crisp, complete profile. Don't analyze. Merely enjoy.
Hogue Johannisberg Riesling, Columbia Valley 2003
Price $9
Rating 88
Washington state holds court when it comes to Riesling
wines. Open this bottle and discover aromas of citrus blossum and orange
zest. This is a sweeter styled wine that is perfectly balanced with its
crisp acidity. The sip offers apricot, green apple, rich orange and zesty
spice notes. The winery suggests pairing this wine with picnic fare, maybe
curried chicken salad, Vietnamese spring rolls or soft-shelled crab. And
there is more to know at
www.rhphillips-hogue.com.
Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine
values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion
on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or
secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee
sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for
numerous publications.
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