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The Real Food Revival
Aisle by Aisle, Morsel by Morsel
By Sherri Brooks Vinton and Ann Clark Espuelas
Reviewed by Erika Wright
This
book was written for people like me. People who hate food that looks great but
has no flavor – like those waxy supermarket apples, people who can’t quite go
vegetarian, but care very much about animal ethics, and people who want to buy
healthy food without hormones, preservatives, and toxins yet don’t really know
how to navigate their way through the labels or how to avoid advertising
pitfalls. ‘The Real Food Revival’ is a book which opens the eyes of the average
consumer to what exactly it is that they are consuming – which sometimes is a
far cry from the wholesome meal they had in mind.
The authors tell you right up front that
they are not doctors or dieticians. They are merely like-minded, concerned
consumers who have done a lot of research and asked a lot of questions. The book
reads like a novel and offers profiles of real people whose businesses and life
choices illustrate the possibilities and rewards of conducting a lucrative
business organically and sustainably. For example, Cabbage Hill in Mount Kisco,
New York operates a greenhouse in which greens are fed water from the Tilapia
tank, the greens then filter and clean the water which then goes back to the
fish. This symbiotic relationship is good for the greens, good for the fish, and
good for the consumer. No chemicals, hormones or antibiotics are used.
‘The Real Food Revival’ covers a lot of
ground throughout the food and beverage industry and has a formidable reference
section to help the reader further their education. This book discusses the
possible negative impact of GMOs on both the consumer and the environment and
the lack of testing to evaluate them. It discusses the importance of buying
local produce which is healthier and fresher and supports local businesses and
keeps your money in your own community. Or, if you are buying an imported good
such a coffee – wouldn’t you rather know that the farmers and field workers are
getting a fair price rather than your money going to a large conglomerate?
They have even included fabulous recipes
like Ugly Tomato Pie, Teriyaki Salmon, and Braised Pork Shoulder with Lime to
help you use all that tasty, local produce. And there are tips like - instead of
grabbing for a soda that contains more sugar than seems possible – they suggest
that you buy a healthy 100% fruit juice, add some seltzer and enjoy. Many tips
are bulleted for easy reference such as the following example for eating ‘real
meat’.
5 Ways to Enjoy Real Meat
-
Seek out grass-finished meat. The diet
is better for the animal, the environment and you! If you can’t find a local
rancher, you can order directly online and have products shipped to you.
-
At the meat counter, avoid feedlot
beef. Opt for grass-fed, organic or ‘all vegetarian feed’ to enjoy better
quality products and avoid exposure to mad cow disease.
-
Support your local butcher. They have a
wealth of knowledge about the items they carry and offer and additional
safety check in the form of a trained eye and a relationship with their
distributor.
-
Avoid boneless/skinless and buy a whole
bird. You will get better flavor by cooking bone-in and you will realize
substantial savings.
-
Buy less popular cuts. Roasts and
shanks can pack a lot of flavor and are dramatically less expensive than
center cut options.
After living in Germany for a year, I
noticed a lot of small and somewhat confusing differences in the approach to
food. Why do Europeans, Australians and South Americans still love their beef
and eat it in large quantities while toting its health value? At the same time,
health conscious Americans have pretty much obliterated it from their diets.
Well, according to ‘The Real Food Revival’ most of our US beef is raised on feed
lots, is fatty, full of hormones and antibiotics and seriously lacking in the
natural health benefits of healthy grass fed cows. ‘Corn-fed’ is far less
wholesome than it sounds.
I was appalled the first time I was in a
German kitchen and saw raw chicken being chopped up right along with the
veggies. No special boards, no special sanitation measures – they even tasted it
raw while they were spicing it. Why isn’t everyone in this country dying of
salmonella? After reading ‘The Real Food Revival’ and gaining insight into the
US meat packing industry, I noticed that while there certainly are packaged
chicken breasts in the grocery store in Germany, more people tend to buy their
meat at the butcher than the Mega Mart. Healthy chickens are butchered in the
morning under sanitary conditions by a well-paid, skilled professional and then
bought and on the table the same day - not run through a processing plant then
shipped and sitting on the shelf for a week.
You will also learn to navigate through the
myriad of labels that often do not mean what you think they mean. For example, I
was quite disturbed to find out that ‘free range’ doesn’t necessarily mean that
the chickens are happily pecking in the grass and walking freely, they might be
stuffed in a huge airplane hangar like sardines in a can with ‘access’ to the
outdoors – meaning the door at the end might be open but the chickens stay
inside. Not exactly what I had in mind. Another potentially confusing term is
‘natural’ which the authors explain has only to do with how the meat was
handled, not how the animal was raised. And I’m not giving even a fraction of
their secrets away. Did you know that the PLU codes on your produce will tell
you if the product is organic or genetically modified? Do you know the
difference between ‘mineral water’ and ‘spring water’ or ‘purified water’ and
‘distilled water’?
I was surprised when my pregnant friends
were told not to eat too much fish during their pregnancy and to avoid certain
types entirely. ‘The Real Food Revival’ explained that because of pollution in
our waters, the toxicity levels in fish are now so high – mercury specifically –
that the levels are thought potentially very hazardous, especially for pregnant
women. If you are curious about reducing your exposure to toxins, about fishing
techniques, effects of over-fishing and the advantages and disadvantages of fish
farms – you need look no further.
If you are confused by pros and cons of
sweeteners and oils, processed foods and beverages and interested in how they
are made – ‘The Real Food Revival’ will explain how to read through the labels
to provide yourself and your family with the safest, healthiest choices. All of
those unhealthy items in the grocery store are produced by major corporations to
deal with surplus foods – they were produced for money making purposes only –
their marketing teams do not have your family’s health as their first priority.
It doesn’t have to be complicated,
inconvenient or expensive to eat healthier, nor do you have to change your
eating habits entirely. ‘The Real Food Revival’ will help empower you to enjoy
your favourite foods while making healthier, more informed decisions.
About the Authors
Sherri Brooks Vinton has devoted her career
to promoting the rewards of eating sustainably-raised food. She is a leader of
the New York Convivium of Slow Food and a member of Farm to Table: A Project of
Earthpledge, the Northeast Organic Farming Association, Women Chefs and
Restaurateurs, Chef’s Collaborative, The James Beard Foundation and the
International Association of Culinary Professionals. She lives in Connecticut
with her husband and their two children.
Ann Clark Espuelas has worked as a writer
and editor for twenty years, including positions at the Village Voice and
Harper's Bazaar. She is a member of the Community Alliance of Family Farmers,
the Food Alliance, and the Organic Consumers Association and lives in Los
Angeles with her husband and their young son.
THE REAL FOOD REVIVAL
by Sherri Brooks Vinton and Ann Clark Espuelas
Tarcher/Penguin
ISBN: 1-58542-421-8
www.penguin.com
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