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The Real Food Revival

Aisle by Aisle, Morsel by Morsel

By Sherri Brooks Vinton and Ann Clark Espuelas

Reviewed by Erika Wright

This book was written for people like me. People who hate food that looks great but has no flavor – like those waxy supermarket apples, people who can’t quite go vegetarian, but care very much about animal ethics, and people who want to buy healthy food without hormones, preservatives, and toxins yet don’t really know how to navigate their way through the labels or how to avoid advertising pitfalls. ‘The Real Food Revival’ is a book which opens the eyes of the average consumer to what exactly it is that they are consuming – which sometimes is a far cry from the wholesome meal they had in mind.

The authors tell you right up front that they are not doctors or dieticians. They are merely like-minded, concerned consumers who have done a lot of research and asked a lot of questions. The book reads like a novel and offers profiles of real people whose businesses and life choices illustrate the possibilities and rewards of conducting a lucrative business organically and sustainably. For example, Cabbage Hill in Mount Kisco, New York operates a greenhouse in which greens are fed water from the Tilapia tank, the greens then filter and clean the water which then goes back to the fish. This symbiotic relationship is good for the greens, good for the fish, and good for the consumer. No chemicals, hormones or antibiotics are used.

‘The Real Food Revival’ covers a lot of ground throughout the food and beverage industry and has a formidable reference section to help the reader further their education. This book discusses the possible negative impact of GMOs on both the consumer and the environment and the lack of testing to evaluate them. It discusses the importance of buying local produce which is healthier and fresher and supports local businesses and keeps your money in your own community. Or, if you are buying an imported good such a coffee – wouldn’t you rather know that the farmers and field workers are getting a fair price rather than your money going to a large conglomerate?

They have even included fabulous recipes like Ugly Tomato Pie, Teriyaki Salmon, and Braised Pork Shoulder with Lime to help you use all that tasty, local produce. And there are tips like - instead of grabbing for a soda that contains more sugar than seems possible – they suggest that you buy a healthy 100% fruit juice, add some seltzer and enjoy. Many tips are bulleted for easy reference such as the following example for eating ‘real meat’.

5 Ways to Enjoy Real Meat

  • Seek out grass-finished meat. The diet is better for the animal, the environment and you! If you can’t find a local rancher, you can order directly online and have products shipped to you.

  • At the meat counter, avoid feedlot beef. Opt for grass-fed, organic or ‘all vegetarian feed’ to enjoy better quality products and avoid exposure to mad cow disease.

  • Support your local butcher. They have a wealth of knowledge about the items they carry and offer and additional safety check in the form of a trained eye and a relationship with their distributor.

  • Avoid boneless/skinless and buy a whole bird. You will get better flavor by cooking bone-in and you will realize substantial savings.

  • Buy less popular cuts. Roasts and shanks can pack a lot of flavor and are dramatically less expensive than center cut options.

After living in Germany for a year, I noticed a lot of small and somewhat confusing differences in the approach to food. Why do Europeans, Australians and South Americans still love their beef and eat it in large quantities while toting its health value? At the same time, health conscious Americans have pretty much obliterated it from their diets. Well, according to ‘The Real Food Revival’ most of our US beef is raised on feed lots, is fatty, full of hormones and antibiotics and seriously lacking in the natural health benefits of healthy grass fed cows. ‘Corn-fed’ is far less wholesome than it sounds.

I was appalled the first time I was in a German kitchen and saw raw chicken being chopped up right along with the veggies. No special boards, no special sanitation measures – they even tasted it raw while they were spicing it. Why isn’t everyone in this country dying of salmonella? After reading ‘The Real Food Revival’ and gaining insight into the US meat packing industry, I noticed that while there certainly are packaged chicken breasts in the grocery store in Germany, more people tend to buy their meat at the butcher than the Mega Mart. Healthy chickens are butchered in the morning under sanitary conditions by a well-paid, skilled professional and then bought and on the table the same day - not run through a processing plant then shipped and sitting on the shelf for a week.

You will also learn to navigate through the myriad of labels that often do not mean what you think they mean. For example, I was quite disturbed to find out that ‘free range’ doesn’t necessarily mean that the chickens are happily pecking in the grass and walking freely, they might be stuffed in a huge airplane hangar like sardines in a can with ‘access’ to the outdoors – meaning the door at the end might be open but the chickens stay inside. Not exactly what I had in mind. Another potentially confusing term is ‘natural’ which the authors explain has only to do with how the meat was handled, not how the animal was raised. And I’m not giving even a fraction of their secrets away. Did you know that the PLU codes on your produce will tell you if the product is organic or genetically modified? Do you know the difference between ‘mineral water’ and ‘spring water’ or ‘purified water’ and ‘distilled water’?

I was surprised when my pregnant friends were told not to eat too much fish during their pregnancy and to avoid certain types entirely. ‘The Real Food Revival’ explained that because of pollution in our waters, the toxicity levels in fish are now so high – mercury specifically – that the levels are thought potentially very hazardous, especially for pregnant women. If you are curious about reducing your exposure to toxins, about fishing techniques, effects of over-fishing and the advantages and disadvantages of fish farms – you need look no further.

If you are confused by pros and cons of sweeteners and oils, processed foods and beverages and interested in how they are made – ‘The Real Food Revival’ will explain how to read through the labels to provide yourself and your family with the safest, healthiest choices. All of those unhealthy items in the grocery store are produced by major corporations to deal with surplus foods – they were produced for money making purposes only – their marketing teams do not have your family’s health as their first priority.

It doesn’t have to be complicated, inconvenient or expensive to eat healthier, nor do you have to change your eating habits entirely. ‘The Real Food Revival’ will help empower you to enjoy your favourite foods while making healthier, more informed decisions.

About the Authors

Sherri Brooks Vinton has devoted her career to promoting the rewards of eating sustainably-raised food. She is a leader of the New York Convivium of Slow Food and a member of Farm to Table: A Project of Earthpledge, the Northeast Organic Farming Association, Women Chefs and Restaurateurs, Chef’s Collaborative, The James Beard Foundation and the International Association of Culinary Professionals. She lives in Connecticut with her husband and their two children.

Ann Clark Espuelas has worked as a writer and editor for twenty years, including positions at the Village Voice and Harper's Bazaar. She is a member of the Community Alliance of Family Farmers, the Food Alliance, and the Organic Consumers Association and lives in Los Angeles with her husband and their young son.

THE REAL FOOD REVIVAL
by Sherri Brooks Vinton and Ann Clark Espuelas
Tarcher/Penguin
ISBN: 1-58542-421-8
www.penguin.com

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