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A Two Nation VacationBy Valerie SummersLakes, locks, bicycle paths, country villages, the history of two neighboring countries and a stunning recreation area south of the Canadian border were highlighted among my diverse encounters during my two-nation vacation of the great northeast. Just a 45 minute drive south from Montreal, in the town of Chambly, I began my excursion at the first of three historic forts I would encounter during my exploration of Southern Quebec and Northern New York.
Rested and raring to go, the next morning, we crossed the border dividing Canada from the USA into the Empire State near Rouses Point; a village where time has pretty much stood still for all the good reasons…charm, friendliness and a relaxed lifestyle, where on the banks of Lake Champlain plans are underway to build a marina. The next stop of our two-nation exploration took us to Heart’s Delight, the home of philanthropist and railroad entrepreneur William Henry Miner. We learned the Horatio Alger story of a young orphan boy who had and continues to have a dramatic impact on the northeastern counties in upstate New York including the implementation of his innovative scientific approach to agriculture on a vast scale.
We continued our scenic drive through the beautiful landscape of the Adirondack Mountains interspersed with villages along Lake Champlain and Lake George. A ride up Prospect Mountain offered a panoramic view of the countryside that is a favorite resort area of upstate New York. Boaters, birders, hikers, bikers and fishermen continue to be drawn to this heavenly recreation destination as do artists enchanted by the dramatic mountain light.
During those few days I learned a smattering of history both Canadian and American, often intertwined. I had ridden along part of the amazing 2,500 mile bicycle path which runs between these two countries and had enjoyed the unforgettable, panoramas, both land and lake, along the scenic byways of Quebec and New York. For information: Ausable Chasm Empire State Development Ministere duTourisme du Quebec Photos: Valerie Summers |
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My first stop was a tour of the great
stone Chambly Fort overlooking the rapids of the Richelieu River. Erected in
1711, the last of four forts built on that site; it stands as a witness to the
French presence in North America and is the only remaining French fortification
in Quebec. It was the largest fortification along the Hudson River-Lake
Champlain-Richelieu River waterway but was only able to resist light artillery
since the French military counted on the rapids to prevent the English from
transporting large canons for their attacks. The second Canadian fort which I
visited the following day, the English built Fort Lennox, was situated on Ile
aux Noix, an island just a few miles from the Canada-U.S. border. Our group was
ferried across the Richelieu River to the imposing structure surrounded by acres
of open parkland. Crossing via a wooden bridge spanning a moat we entered the
imposing inner grounds of the fort where an ebullient and knowledgeable docent
offered a brief history of the fort followed by a tour including the soldier’s
barracks, which appeared occupied with made up beds and uniforms waiting to be
donned. The third fort I would encounter when I crossed the border into New
York was a guided tour through the 18th century reconstructed Fort Ticonderoga
situated at the southern end of Lake Champlain. Costumed interpreters and
a museum filled with memorabilia and
information
offered insight into the life and times of those who occupied this fort during
the colonial wars of the 18th and 19th centuries. Adjacent, I wandered through
the one-acre walled King’s Garden, a 1920’s era formal, ornamental flower
garden. Originally created for Sarah and Stephen Pell, the couple who
began the restoration of Fort Ticonderoga in1909, the garden stands behind their
summer home and in the shadow of the Fort.
With plenty of history under my
belt after the Fort Chambly tour, I ambled over to the Fourquet Fouchette for a
leisurely lunch. Good food is an important and delightful ingredient in the
enjoyment of any visit to this French Canadian province. Time to work off that
sumptuous meal, I hopped on a rented 20 speed bicycle and started off along 13
of the 2,500 miles of interconnected scenic byways. Bicyclers may ride along the
Upper Richelieu Valley of Quebec, crossing the border into New York where the La
Route Verte connects with Lake Champlain Bikeways. The route continues through
the verdant countryside, picturesque villages and shoreline parks. My colleagues
and I pedaled alongside the locks of the Chambly Canal, part of the Route Verte,
to our inn, the Auberge Harris. It’s been a while since I experienced such
personal attention and warmth in a hotel where owner Madame Francoise Boutin
greeted guests as if they were entering her home. My two-room suite consisted of
a small living space with adjacent kitchenette, comfortable king-sized bedded
room and modern bathroom featuring an oversized Jacuzzi tub.
On to Plattsburgh where I was ferried
across to Lake Champlain’s Crab Island aboard the Weatherwax, a replica sail
ferry, where a group of locals proudly described its history where both British
and American soldiers who battled together in the war of 1812 were buried side
by side commemorating the pivotal Battle of Plattsburgh on September 11, 1814.
A soaring monument and forever waving American flag erected in their memory
dominate the burial grounds.
My favorite stop was an afternoon
spent at Ausable Chasm, the oldest natural attraction in the United States.
Established in 1870, this wonder of nature includes 1,000 acres of nature
trails, scenic vistas, astounding rock formations, waterfalls and a river which
is sometimes mellow and sometimes raging. Although my plan included a rafting
trip through the watery maze, at the time of my visit, the river came crashing
through the narrow gorges due to flood conditions. What I lost in a marine
excursion, I gained in the magnificent sight of the river and falls at their
peaks. The splendor of this Adirondack wonder was formed nearly 500 millions
years ago when the waters of the powerful Ausable River began cutting their way
into the Potsdam sandstone strata creating extraordinary views while sculpting
formations such as the towering columnar rock stacks. I explored the primeval
forest as I walked along the nature trails and then took the wooden stairs down
to the natural stone river walkway for a closer view of the spectacular Rainbow
Falls, Elephant’s Head, Column Rock, Whirlpool Basin and Mystic Gorge while the
river churned tumultuously. 
The finale of my two-nation visit
was a cruise on a retired working tugboat, boarding the Governor Cleveland at
Lock four in Stillwater for a trip on the Champlain Canal. My group and I
experienced navigating the locks before entering the canal while learning some
of the history of the canal and shore communities. Of special interest were the
stories of several communities which were part of the Underground Railroad.
Many enslaved people from the south obtained freedom with the help of a network
of local sympathizers who aided in their crossing into Canada.