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Get Away From Crowds at Lassen Volcanic National Park

Enjoy Wilderness and Unique Geothermal Wonders

By Larry Taylor

Tired of the crowds in famous national parks–Grand Canyon and Yellowstone, for example.  If so, consider Lassen Volcanic National Park, in Northern California, two hours above its more popular neighbors, Sequoia and Yosemite. What’s more, Lassen with its geothermal makeup offers a unique variety of attractions.

To get there in a day, drive north on I-5 from Southern California and exit east on Hwy. 36 to the park entrance on Hwy. 89. Once in the park, the road ascends spectactularly to almost 10,000 feet–above you, sheer mountain walls; below, a deep glaciated canyon, cut through by a rushing creek.

Looking southeast, the area is  ringed by mountains with colorful names–Brokeoff,  Bumpass, Pilot Pinnacle and Diamond Peak. After consulting the national park map, one realizes that these encircling mountaintops mark the circumference of ancient Mount Tehama which erupted thousands of years ago. The resulting crater then collapsed with the remaining peaks all that is left of the outer rim.

Tehama still had life, however. A volcanic vent formed on its northern flank. When it erupted furiously in 1914, Lassen Peak was formed. Now, at 10,457 feet high, Mount Lassen looms over all, surrounded by year-round snow banks, alpine lakes and lush meadows. Recognizing the need to preserve the area’s scenic beauty and unique volcanic features, the government declared Lassen a national park in 1916.

Along side the main road through the park, trail head signs point out exotic volcanic destinations–lava pinnacles, steaming sulphur vents, boiling lakes and bubbling mud ponds. The 1-1/2 mile hike to Bumpass Hell is one of the most popular. Those who want more of a walk can keep on the trail a couple of miles farther to Cold Boiling Lake. Another trail through Devastated Area, on Mount Lassen’s northern flank, passes through the volcanic wasteland created by the 1914 eruption.

Many hardy visitors hike to the top of Mount Lassen Peak, probably the most accessible of America’s major peaks. Though it’s 2-1/2 miles uphill, the trail is wide, and the many switchbacks make it a gradual ascent. Once at the top, the hiker is in a crater and, on a clear day, majestic Mt. Shasta can be seen some 60 miles in the distance.

There’s eight campgrounds in the park but only one place to secure lodging–Drakesbad Guest Ranch. Located away from the main part of the park, Drakesbad is centered in a scenic valley, surrounded by mountains. The  lodge and cabins look out on a picture-perfect  meadow, complete with a bubbling brook, deer grazing, marmots scurrying about and the occasional black bear passing through.

Drakesbad is truly the place to relax and get back-to-nature. Most of the cabins have no electricity although  a generator provides power to the dining hall and lodge from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.  The area was first settled by German immigrant rancher  E. R.. Drakes in the 1860s. In 1900 Drakes sold the property to the to the Sifford family who developed it into a successful guest ranch. They named it Drakesbad after the founder and added “bad” (bath in German) because of the nearby hot springs which fills a warm-water pool for guests to soak in. Since 1958 the National Park Service has administered the resort.

Drakesbad operates strictly on the American Plan with all meals included in the room rate (a good price at $108 per person). And the food is one of the big attractions. At dinner there are usually two choices, meat and vegetarian. During our stay we had succulent prime ribs one night and a tasty vegetable lasagna the next. Breakfasts are hearty with a daily cooked selection as well as a buffet of cereals and breads. Lunch is also buffet-style, but hikers are provided a sack lunch for the trail.  

Excellent hiking trails lure most guests, but the ranch offers many other activities including horseback riding, fly fishing and boating in nearby Dream Lake. Since the ranch is in the middle of a thermal area, trails lead to destinations with intriguing names, such as Devil’s Kitchen, Boiling Springs Lake and Terminal Geyser. 

One of the best hikes in midsummer is to head up the Pacific Crest Trail past Corral Meadow for a lovely display of wild flowers–bright orange tiger lilies, purple lupine, yellow buttercups. The energetic keep going uphill from here, crossing back and forth over Kings Creek for a rewarding view of  Kings Creek Falls.

By the way, the Pacific Crest Trail starts in Mexico and ends in Canada. Many hardy hikers welcome the challenge of the five-month journey encompassing three countries. In summer day-hikers from Drakesbad usually meet back-packers who regale them with stories about their adventures so far on their journey up from Mexico.

Families love Drakesbad. The kids have a great time around the nightly campfires telling ghost stories and roasting marshmallows. During the day the pool is cooled down for frolicking bathers; but at 5 p.m., a valve is opened, and hot water is let in. By 10, the temperature is perfect for a relaxing soak. All the lights are out now, and city folk can lie back in the warm bath, marveling  at all the stars they haven’t been able to see at home.

For information on Drakesbad and Lassen, call (530) 529-1512 ext.120. The web site  is www.drakesbad.com.

Photos by Gail Taylor

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