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Quebec’s Historic Richelieu River Is Enhanced By Its BiosphereBy Habeeb Salloum
A few minutes later our two boats, each with a guide, were making their way through the winding water channels of the Biosphere Reserve - a huge wetland area saturated with water encircled islands. Recognized by UNESCO as a World Biosphere Reserve in 2001, the area edging the city of Sorel-Tracy, includes 103 islets and water channels, making up 40% of all the St. Lawrence wetlands. These shelter an exceptionally rich plant and animal life. The region is home to more than 167 species of nesting birds, close to 70 species of fish and is the largest freshwater waterfowl staging area on the St. Lawrence. It is also the nesting spot to the largest heron colony in North America.
I was watching a half dozen ducks swimming nearby when I felt a mosquito bite my hand. “I hate mesquites!” I said aloud, noting that Paul, our guide was watching me scratch my hand. He smiled, “Just don’t come here after 6 P.M. without a huge amount of bug killer.” We relaxed in our wet boats as we moved in the shade of gigantic trees, all the while listening to the chirping of birds hidden in the shrubs with others flying overhead. It was an undisturbed and calming atmosphere - nature as it was meant to be. In this world of dreams where one can easily escape from the overwhelming present, my seat companion sighed, “I do not even feel the rain. It’s so peaceful here”.
Before being discovered by Samuel de Champlain, the Iroquois Indians used the waterways as a pathway for trade and war. After the British and French colonization of eastern North America, it became an important pathway for traders as well as a roadway of invasions and counter invasions by the British, French and, later, the Americans. Above all, until the advent of the railway it was the route by which the riches of the continent were conveyed to the Atlantic coast.
After touring the fort, we stopped a while at a daily presentation relating to the everyday life of a French soldier. After a lady in our tour group donned a uniform from that era pictures were taken and we then left for the nearby Fourquet Fourchette Restaurant, specializing in traditionally brewed spicy beers and the gastronomy of New France.
Our group now divided into two groups: the more energetic ones chose to bike on a part of Quebec’s 2,500 km (1,553 mi) of biking trails, to our next destination Saint-Jean-Sur-Richelieu; while the others like myself, explored the town of Chambly by foot then followed by bus the 20 km (12.5 mi) Chambly Canal with its nine locks still operated manually, to Saint-Jean. Both by bike and by bus, the short journey gave a taste of the delightful countryside in this part of Quebec.
Rested the next morning, we drove a short distance to Fort Lennox, built on an island in the middle of the Richelieu a few miles from the American border. The British erected the Fort in the early 19th century to protect the British colony of Quebec in event of an American invasion. One of the most authentic British fortifications in North America, it has become, due to its many activities reflecting the bygone ages, a mecca for school children and tourists.
IF YOU GO Two Good Places to Eat: Le Samuel 11 Restaurant, 291, rue Richelieu, Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu, Quebec J3B 6Y3. Tel: (450) 347-4353 or Toll free: 1-800-530-1615. Fax: (450) 347-2255. Cost of a gourmet dinner about $38. CDN. For Further Information, Contact: |
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The rain was pouring when we left Montreal to begin our
journey of exploring the Richelieu Valley - a region full of history and modern
day tourist sites. It had not let up when, after an hour drive, our bus stopped
in front of a boathouse in the Lac Saint-Pierre Biosphere Reserve at the merging
of the St. Lawrence, Yamaska and Richelieu Rivers. Quickly our group of twelve
scurried into the boathouse and were soon donning bright yellow rainwear. As we
walked down to a tiny dock where two small boats were waiting for us, one of our
group members remarked, “Look at us! Don’t we look like penguins waddling to
the water?”
As we glided along in the water, I could see through the
mist of lightly falling rain the beautiful flora with trees whose roots like
those of the mangrove trees were growing out of the water. All the islands were
covered with a thick layer of greenery, dotted here and there by tiny babbling
waterfalls, bird nests and cottages built on stilts by the city folks who come
here to fish or just enjoy the wonders of the outdoors.
Leaving
this idyllic haven, we were soon on a bus driving along the 100 km (61 mi) long
Richelieu River - the heart of the most strategic river networks in North
America. Linking the St. Lawrence with Lake Champlain and, canals, the Hudson
River, this collection of waterways was once a part of a crucial water system
running between Montreal and New York.
Today, travelling through this magnificent far-flung
heritage corridor, pleasure boaters and other water enthusiasts as well as
bikers and hikers have taken over the once birch bark canoes, commercial
steamships, warships and forest adventurers. The complex of waterways, edged by
a fertile landscape, continues to be an important pathway for those seeking the
pleasures of the outdoors and the excitement of water travel.
I was thinking about the corridor’s history, when we
reached the impressive Fort Chambly located at the foot of the Richelieu Rapids.
A bastion overlooking the Richelieu River, it once protected New France (today
the province of Quebec) from British attack. Dating from 1711, the fort, the
last fortress in New France to fall to British forces, withstood the upheavals
of history and was restored in 1983. Today, for tourists, it exhibits recount
key moments in the history of New France.
Overlooking the Richelieu River, the entire site is
inspired by life in the 17th century - in costumes, furniture, music and other
entertainment. In this historic setting, we were served by waiters attired in
the dress of New France, an assortment of spicy beers, tidbits of Quebec and
Indigenous peoples’ dishes like smoked game, smoked fish, Quebec cheeses, game
and bison sausages and much more. “It’s a historic feast to remember!” One of
our group remarked as we made our way out of this unique eating-place.
After a fine gourmet dinner at ‘Le Samuel 11 Restaurant’,
we settled in for the night in Auberge Harris. I was amazed with this homey
abode. Françoise Boucher-Boutin its owner, a courteous, gracious and always
smiling lady as well as all her staff, as they do to all tourists, gave us a
warm welcome.
After touring the barracks, guardroom, officers’ quarters
and then re-enacting with us the life of a 19th century British soldier, with us
as his guinea pigs, the guide bid us adieu. As we left, my colleague, a history
buff, turned to me saying, “Before we cross into the U.S. remember the Richelieu
and its forts have a connected history with America’s Lake Champlain and its
connecting locks and rivers. You have seen the Canadian/British side of that
once great Northeast North American waterway. Tomorrow, no doubt, you will be
familiar with the American version. Historians have their own view of
history.” “Who is right? History is always written with a bias.” I thought to
myself as we had our last look at Fort Lennox.”