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Switzerland’s Hiking HeavenBy Sandra K. NicholsAs I prepared for my first trip overseas, Switzerland was one country I planned to visit. I was traveling with a friend and we had three weeks on the continent. During our first meeting to discuss the countries and cities we wanted to see, Switzerland was first on our list. We decided on three cities, and were not disappointed. Historic Bern, capital of the country; Interlaken between two beautiful mountain lakes; and Lucerne with the medieval wall which surrounds the city assessable to walk, and the extraordinary monument to all the fallen soldiers. Unfortunately, we did not have the knowledge or foresight to take advantage of the true Switzerland, the hiking trails and locals of the Alps. On my second trip, nearly fifteen years later, I was not just on holiday, I was moving to this country that stole my heart so many years before. This time I made a vow, to discover the intimate parts of Switzerland. I could see myself hiking the multitude of hiking trails in the crisp, clean air of the Swiss Alps. Mountain meadows carpeted in the green grass of summer and topped with a delicious variety of wild flowers; standing in the shadows of glacier-covered peaks, where the locals go, far away from the typical tourist locations. Most of us do not have the luxury to spend endless weeks in search of such places, so let me share with you just one of the many, the tiny village of Gimmelwald. Nestled deep in the Wengen Valley, beneath the sharp rugged peaks of the Jungfrau, is the timeless Swiss hamlet of Gimmelwald (pronounced GIM-mel-vald). Opposite its more popular sister, Grindelwald, Gimmelwald is a paradise for anyone who prefers remote, unincorporated regions, hiking, and good conversation. Life is peaceful and slow-paced, void of most modern-day luxury electronics. It is a simple village with simple folk, and if you are lucky a few of the locals might be out to greet you on your hike. From the moment you arrive, you know you have landed in a place unlike any other. Set on the sharp face of the sunny hillside, just beneath the larger village of Mürren, Gimmelwald sits at 4,555 feet. It is a hiker’s paradise. All there is to do in Gimmelwald during summer is hike. If you are interested in five star hotels and restaurants, and festive nightlife, Gimmelwald is not for you. There are five choices for lodging in the village, all listed below including the offer to sleep in the hay. Restaurants are limited to finding a meal at Walter’s, hiking to Mürren, or the pensions provide meals for their lodgers. If you prefer the luxuries of life, I am sure there is a hotel to accommodate you in Mürren; however, vehicles are verboten (forbidden) as well. I was fortunate to meet someone who rented a chalet six months of every year, and to be invited on several occasions. My first visit to the valley, was in April. The lower half of the valley was void of snow, while skiers enjoyed one last weekend on the slopes at top. We first hiked up to the village of Mürren where there are plenty of shops, a sports center, ski central, and a grocery store. The rest of the day was spent exploring trails below the village. The word wanderwegs (VAHN-der-vegs) accurately describes these hiking trails. They wind and wander up and down the mountainsides, but are clearly marked with “trail signs” at every intersection. While this valley presents a multitude of challenges for the serious hiker, it also offers trails for all levels of hikers and walkers. The precipitous facades of the crags, dare experienced hikers to risk the complex challenge of its paths. While the upper slopes offer a more gentile way to explore a mountainside. The one drawback to hiking in this valley is when you hike down, your return trip is up a steep slope. I would suggest waiting for summer to explore the trails above and have your return trip down. You also have the option to hike down towards Stechelberg, and return by gondola. If you walk up to Mürren, there is a plethora of hiking/walking trails for the less adventurous and more casual hikers. There is even a scenic route! Upon your arrival, dispel of your belongings, take a moment, and look around this pristine village. You are in one of the most spectacular places on earth, and I guarantee you will not be disappointed. The steep slopes of these Alps are littered with typical Swiss chalets. Some, hundreds of years old. It is a quiet place, with the exception of chatter from excited tourists, accompanied by the occasional chime of a cowbell. Walk outside your lodgings and take in the 360° view. Witness the jagged peaks capped by ancient glaciers as they rise to meet the brilliant, blue sky. Notice the contrast between the dark and light features of the Alps, giving depth and life to the defiant peaks. It is breathtaking. Inhale the virgin mountain air while you stand in awe of the natural challenges that lie at your feet. Take care to note the altitude. Give yourself at least a day to acclimate if you are not accustomed to high altitudes. Although Gimmelwald is moderately secluded, it can be reach via public transportation in a variety of ways. Accessible only through the Lauterbrunnen valley, which runs south of Interlaken, this isolated community lives on dairy farming and the tourists who find their way to this little alpine retreat. Gimmelwald is at 4,500 ft and reached by cable car. No motorcars allowed. You will find directions at the end of this article. The village of Gimmelwald itself has but a mere population in the winter and explodes to hundreds in the summer with backpackers trekking through the village. The postmistress lives above the offices of the Swiss Post who tends to her garden whil, and the proprietor of the Pension sells fresh yogurt and cheeses she makes herself, as well as postcards (in the stand above the refrigerator that holds the cheeses and yogurt)There are neither stores nor shops in this village. If you want to shop, you must hike (or take the gondola) to Mürren. If you too fall in love with this village and the lure of the region calls you, I am sure you will find yourself returning again and again. There is so much yet to discover in this little known place that offers so much. You return from your holiday feeling relaxed yet exhilarated at having experienced the long-standing lifestyle of the Swiss Alpiners. To get to Gimmelwald: Plan to start early, have patience and lots of time. From your point of origin, take a train to Interlochen Ost (East). Connect to the Interlaken Ost--Lauterbrunnen train. Be Careful: there are two parts to this train. The first half goes to Lauterbrunnen, and the other to Grindelwald. The cars are clearly labeled. Take a moment, you are on vacation; walk along the train (there will be time, you do not have to rush), read the cars. You will notice at the half point where they change. Make sure you board the correct one. You will arrive in Lauterbrunnen 20 minutes later. From this point, you have several options. Transportation from Lauterbrunen to Gimmelwald: Lauterbrunnen--Grütschalp funicular to Mürren. The entrance is right across the Lauterbrunnen train station. You cannot miss it. The ride is eleven minutes, it runs every 15 minutes for most of the day (every half hour after 17:17, then every hour after 18:47). The last ride departs at 20:47. After you arrive at the station, take the Grütschalp--Mürren train. The funicular and the train are well connected. They share the same mini-station. The train departs 7 minutes after the funicular arrives. The ride to Mürren is 17 minutes long. Try to get a seat on the left side for the breathtaking panorama of the Jungfrau Alps. Once in Mürren, you can take the gondola down to Gimmelwald (five minutes ride). The gondola station is about a 10-minute walk from the train station, just follow the signs as they are on opposite sides of the village. Another option is you can walk the path to Gimmelwald. About 40 minutes, downhill. The road is well marked. If you are in Gimmelwald during the winter, although this path is accessible, you must yield to those on sleds. Websites and Information: Places to stay: Other Useful Sites: |
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