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Gavi – An enchanting wilderness

By D.K. Bhaskar

Kumily is a little town that can pass for a picturesque settlement in a romantic fiction, bordering the states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala in southern India. All visitors to the famous tourist hot spots of Thekkady and Periyar Tiger Reserve have to pass through this little place to reach their final destinations. I forgot the pains of my weary journey and informed my guide that we begin our tour by visiting Gavi as per plan. After a quick shower, we headed for Gavi, which took about two hours to reach.

The route to Gavi passes through lush green tea plantations and it was interesting to see the workers actively plucking tealeaves. The meandering row of terraced tea plantations was like a pretty painting. I did not realize that we spent the first 30 minutes of our journey enjoying the estate around us. We also came across plantations of spices, cash crops that are cultivated in abundance in this region. Our friendly driver gave me a detailed account of the importance of everything around in the local language, Malayalam. The account was rendered in his very own distinctive style, which I must admit I hardly managed to grasp. 

Out of the two check posts en route, the journey through the first crossing at Vallakadavu left me spellbound. It appeared as if the Creator had splashed colors of unparalleled beauty across the landscape. I tried hard to place the call of innumerable birds and was on the look out for large mammals that I may encounter on the way. The trail to Gavi in the Periyar Tiger Reserve was largely made of gravel and sand. Its width was hardly enough for a jeep to pass through. However, the lush green canopy of the Sholas, the sub-tropical forests peculiar to this area, compensated for the agony of this difficult journey.

Gavi lies adjacent to the western part of the Periyar forests and is a Nature’s paradise. The route is rugged and the journey arduous. This part of the Western Ghats is a haven for rare flora and fauna. There are more than 260 species of birds including the great pied hornbill, woodpecker, and kingfishers. A forest guesthouse is located at a spectacular location overlooking the Gavi Lake and the forests. The ambience inside the eco-friendly cottage is marvelous. As one takes a walk around the guesthouse the gentle breeze from the lake, the song of the Malabar Whistling Thrush and a variety of many other species of wildlife give one great company.

    

The one remarkable thing about Gavi is that it is well maintained by the local tribals. They possess a wealth of knowledge about the natural products surrounding them and take great pride in maintaining it at its pristine best.  They are always full of smiles and it is a refreshing feeling to mingle with them in the tranquility of the forest. I hopped on to a boat eager to take a few photographs in the available light, which at that time looked promising. I must warn you though that the conditions here can change dramatically and one need not be surprised if the heavens send sudden showers of thunder and rain. I was keen to go trekking in the forest and the tribals joined as the local guides.  I was all eyes and ears, taking care not to miss the slightest movement in the woods. I sighted several exotic species of wild animals and birds throughout my trek. Particularly amusing creatures were the Nilgiri langurs that stared at me and jumped from tree to tree showing off their acrobatic skills. I infact spotted a still amphibian adeptly camouflaged on a tree trunk. Equally astounding was the growth of fungi of all shapes and sizes, all along the trek. I was following my tribal guides for most part of my trip but at one stage, I wandered past him quite by accident. The most sensational part of the trek awaited me soon enough. I held my breath when a leopard walked across and disappeared in to the woods! I was so excited that I did not even attempt to lift my camera and shoot.

As I trekked deep into the jungle, I came across many fascinating aspects of nature at its best. A small water stream cascading down the rocks added much charm to the green vegetation. All the while, my eyes kept on preying for the elusive big cat, the tiger. We came across a big herd of gaurs instead grazing on the grass. Our footsteps seemed to disturb them; but they were curious enough to stand alert and stare at the strange intruders in their territory.

Gavi is famous for some of the breathtaking viewpoints. The valley view with its spectacular view of a deep ravine with forests below at Chenthmara Kokkai is a visual treat. Nilgiri Tahrs can be seen at Kochu Pampa, a short trek from the guesthouse. Among other wildlife that can be spotted are the elephants, the lion-tailed macaques, barking deer and sambars. For those interested in observing the nocturnal wildlife, night safaris to Kullur, Gavi Pullumedu, Kochu Pampa, Pachakanam provide ample opportunities for wildlife viewing.

Another unique feature of Gavi is camping in the forests. One can pitch a tent in the camping site, which is a rarity in many Indian forests. As the dusk stretches to the silence of the night, one can feel the presence of wildlife in the middle of nowhere, an experience that cannot be explained in words. There are also tree top houses available at Gavi to enjoy the avian life to the fullest.

Gavi is surely an unforgettable place. Its heavenly, mystical charm is wild and beautiful. The people of Gavi have added more charm to this unique heritage of nature. A stay at Gavi, whether in the tent or a cottage is going to make one feel relaxed and inspired. However, the elusive big cat eluded me in this trip; but that’s his discretion! I should not leave out the leeches from my account of Gavi. Having said that, this pristine location belongs to the wild creatures and we should not expect the predictability of our urban dwellings here. 

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