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He Prefers the Simple, yet Elegant

This Chef Deals in Pairs … A Few Moments with Him

By Marty Martindale

He’s Chef Frederic C. Castan from Avignon, the heart of Provence. After he developed more than a passing interest in his mother’s cooking, he began working with food when he was 14, fascinated with the ever-changing shapes and consistencies he found. After he left France and trilingual, Castan broadened his food experience with positions in Southern California, Mexico and Alaska. He mixed cuisines -- the Mexican avocado and chile pepper ice creams fascinated him. He won awards.

He commenced work as executive chef with the Sofitel Chicago Water Tower in March of 2002. His area of charge:  the Café des Architectes and LeBar. “I really enjoy working here. When I was chef in California, people came to be seen. Here, they come to eat what they want. This is very rewarding for me.” He supervises 42 cooks, bakers and stewards. All of the hotel’s breads and pastries are baked on the premises.

At a recent “Fun-Damentals of Fine Living” seminar at the hotel, Chef Castan worked with Luis Torres of the Allied Domecq Academy of Wine. Luis praised Castan highly for coming up with just the right foods for their special wine pairings for seminar’s luncheon and dinner. One course was:

Pan seared Foie Gras over
poached Main Lobster
Braised Mission Figs
Port wine and balsamic reduction,
Cardamom Tuile
Wine they chose:  Mumm Joyesse

Pressed to tell how he gets ready for a wine and food pairing presentation, he thought for a moment. “I first try to go for the season, then I plan the food. Once the foods were prepared, Luis and I tasted them.”

“From the beginning, we felt we should go with a wine with a lot of fruit. We had the sweetness in the lobster, also the figs.” He paused a minute, then added, “We also had a slight acidity with the sweet, yet tart balsamic vinegar.” He smiles remembering the intrigue. “We knew there were at least two or three wines which would do it, however, the contrast couldn’t be too much. We needed to let the food keep its own identity.”

He leans over and explains that some chefs select the wine first then the food to go with the wine. “I prefer to have my dish already chosen.” He admits to adjusting the taste of the particular dish to make the wine more compatible with the food.

A vintner and a chef can take up to two days arriving at pairing combinations. This allows for preparation, cooking, marinating, timing and spice adjusting. “It has to be right,” he warns.

He pauses for a moment, then adds, “Some people really care more for the wine than the food, they just require a bite of food. I don’t think a good wine will bring the food up. I think it has to be equal. Good food cannot bring the wine up, either. Both need to be equally balanced.”

In this particular course served at this event, they went with the Mumm Joyesse. It was unusual to pair a dessert Champagne during a meal. Castan adds, “Pairing is very important. If you have a really great meal, and you also have lousey service, something will always be missing. Everything has to be equal.

Since working in California, Alaska and Mexico, Castan has returned more to his original French cooking, but the new French cuisine.  “Our food is lighter now. I don’t like to use as much butter, cream, that stuff. We use mainly olive oil and a little lemon, fresh produce, foods good for our health. What you eat is the food,  and you remember how the flavor was  enhanced.”  

Castan is married and has two grown sons. One son may go into food as a career, however he warned this son a chef  really needs to love food to work with it all day.  

© Marty Martindale, 2005, Largo FL

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