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Germany white wines to try

By Darryl Beeson

Here is a quick overview of more great white wines from Germany. They are not always sweet; Many are dry.

Milz-Laurentiushof Riesling Spätlese TRITTENHEIMER LEITERCHEN, 2003
Price $29
Rating 93
The nose invigorates with notes of fresh melon and slate/mineral. The sip is bright and uplifting. There is fresh apricot, lemon, fresh fig, subtle floral and mineral in the long, crisp length.

Since 1520, the Milz family has been active in viticulture at Trittenheim. In 1890, extensive vineyard holdings belonging to the Knight of Warsberg and to the Count of Hunolstein were purchased. To learn more, visit www.cellarsinternational.com.

Milz-Laurentiushof Riesling Spätlese TRITTENHEIMER FELSENKOPF, 2003
Price $29
Rating 93
Slate/mineral dominate the nose. Then there are flavors of vibrant fresh fruit; First there is fig, then apricot, bracing lemon/lemon peel and complex floral-like spice.

The original Milz house is located near the church in the center of Trittenheim. A part of the cellar was completed in 1680, and other parts of the manor house date back to 1715. Over the years there have been many additions and changes, but the original architectural style of the house and cellar have been well preserved. The cellar is equipped with the latest in modern technology, and the wines produced by Milz reflect the tradition and care that make them the finest produced in Trittenheim.

Milz-Laurentiushof Riesling Auslese TRITTENHEIMER APOTHEKE, 2003
Price $40+
Rating 95
The nose resembles limestone, though the soil in the vineyard is slate. Subtle fresh fruit notes are in the nose. The sip offers apricot nectar, dried fig, dried cherry, spritzy citrus peel, diverse floral and mineral in the long length.

What are generally considered the finest Trittenheim sites - the Leiterchen and the Felsenkopf - are wholly owned by Milz. They also have substantial holdings in the Altärchen and Apotheke. All the Trittenheim vineyards are planted 100% to Riesling.

Gunderloch Estate Dry Riesling 2004
Price $16.99
Rating 90
The entry is crisp and tropical with lime and crisp apple. Mineral underlies the refreshing fruit in the sip.

In 1890 the banker Carl Gunderloch purchased the "Gunderloch" manor house in Nackenheim. He also purchased property in the Rothenberg and Engelsberg vineyards which still constitutes the nucleus of the Gunderloch estate. As the story goes, he used to trek from Gundersblum, his place of birth, to his bank in Mainz. On these daily journeys he carefully observed how the sun played off the hills along the Rhein Terrace. Based on these observations he purchased vineyard property that appeared to collect sunlight most efficiently. Today the estate, as a result of these shrewd acquisitions, owns unquestionably the best vineyards in Nackenheim. Find out more at www.gunderloch.de.

Gunderloch Riesling "Diva" Spätlese, 2004
Price $21.99
Rating 91
The nose is oily with tropical melon and tropical nuttiness. The sip enters with zesty lime, then rich key lime pie and tart green apple follow within the long length.

Winery owner Fritz Hasselbach came up with the name "Diva" reminding the consumer that the wine is appealing, a little extravagant and definitely memorable. He suggests serving this wine as an aperitif, with spicy food, or pumpkin soup.

Gunderloch Riesling "Jean Baptiste" Kabinett, 2004
Price $19.99
Rating 92
The sip is oily and rich, bright with lime/citrus and citrus floral. Hints of macadamian butter and tropical melon rise within the long finish.

Gunderloch Riesling Spätlese Nackenheim, Rheinhessen 2003
Price $45
Rating 94
The nose is oily with macadamian butter and lime blossom. The sip is luscious, concentrated with rich and sweet apple, toasted nuts and subtle mineral in the long finish.

Gunderloch Riesling Auslese Nackenheim Rothenberg, 2003
Price $35
Rating 93
The nose is packed with tropical melon and crushed raw nuts. The sip, sweet and concentrated, showcases ripe apples, lime and subtle mineral complexities.

Robert Weil Estate Dry Riesling, Rheingau 2004
Price $21        
Rating 89         
The sip enters with crisp, bright flavors of lemon, with a touch of apple and maybe some mineral.

The Robert Weil estate is located in the beautiful Gothic village of Kiedrich. Four generations and over a century ago Dr. Robert Weil, who was a Professor of German at the Sorbonne was forced to leave Paris because of the Franco-Prussian War (1870/1871). He subsequently joined his brother August in the Rheingau and in 1875 bought the estate manor from the heirs of Sir John Sutton, an English baronet who had settled in Kiedrich. At the same time he founded the Robert Weil winery with small vineyard holdings already in his possession.

Robert Weil Riesling Halbtrocken Kabinett, Rheingau 2004
Price $24        
Rating 91         
The nose hints of dried apricot. The sip is bright with lemon, lime and apricot nectar. For more information, visit www.weingut-robert-weil.com.

Robert Weil Riesling Spätlese, Rheingau 2004
Price $29        
Rating 91         
The nose is subtle with lemon peel and soft mineral. The complex, sweet and sour sip leads with lemon and luscious fruit concentration. The length is long on the palate.

Weber Liebfraumilch, Rheinhessen 2002
Price $5.38
Rating 89
The nose has citrus blossom and a slight perfumed element, perhaps border-line soapy, is present. In a blind tasting panel, this was a favorite, though other wines were close to three times the price. The sip has pear nectar, orange jello, lime citrus and green apple.

Wilhelm Bergmann Piesporter Goldtopfchen Spätlese Riesling, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 2003
Price $11.68
Rating 89
The nose is classic with flint, petrol and lime blossom. The sip is oof-dry with green apple, lime and more mineral complexity in the long length on the palate.

Wilhelm Bergmann Piesporter Goldtopfchen Auslese Riesling, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 2003
Price $11.68
Rating 89
Rich aromas of key lime pie are followed by flavors of pear nectar, honey, concentrated lime and green apple.

Wilhelm Bergmann Dornfelder, Germany 2004
Price $9.88
Rating 86
The are aromas of dark fruit such as mulberry. The sip is sweet with blackberry and blueberry.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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