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The dry wines of Canada

By Darryl Beeson

Within the southern parts of British Columbia and Ontario, there are seven designated Viticultural Areas (VA). They are the Fraser Valley, Okanagan Valley (90% of British Columbia's production), Similkameen Valley and Vancouver Island in British Columbia. For Ontario, the VA's are Lake Erie North Shore, Niagara Peninsula and Pelee Island. There are close to 210 wineries within the two provences.

These fertile wine-producing are located between 41 and 50 degrees latitude, placing them within the same range as the Champagne region of France, Rioja in Spain, Germany, southern Oregon, northern California, as well as the Chianti Classico region in Italy. Learn more at www.winebc.com , www.winesofontario.ca  or www.canadianvintners.com . Distribution may be limited. It is worth the trip North for these wines.

Sumac Ridge "Stellar's Jay" Brut, Okanagan NV
Price $18
Rating 90
The aromas are toasty and bright with citrus. The sip is complex with yeast and toasted brioche leading into mineral and citrus.

Flat Rock Cellars "Nadja's Vineyard" Riesling, Niagara Peninsula 2004
Price $16
Rating 83
The nose has hints of banana. The flavors are refreshing, but a little disjointed.

Cedar Creek Ehrenfelser, Okanagan 2004
Price $15
Rating 87
The aromas are game-like and earthy. There are flavors of pear, melon and papaya.

Stratus White, Niagara Peninsula 2002
Price $30
Rating 87
There are subtle aromas of tree fruit and soft hazelnut. The sip offers nutty flavors along with apple and flabby melon. There are five grape varieties in the blend.

Blue Mountain Pinot Gris Reserve, Okanagan 2002
Price $23
Rating 88
The nose offers apple and soft tropical fruit. The sip reveals citrus blossom, stone fruit and tropical melon with a hint of toasty oak.

Tawse "Beamsville Bench" Chardonnay, Niagara Peninsula 2002
Price $42
Rating 89
The nose is complex with toasted oak and dried apricot. The sip shows elements of toffee, apple and melon. This Chardonnay is chewy and full blown in style.

Malivoire Courtney Gamay, Niagara Peninsula 2003
Price $20
Rating 88
The nose is heavy with mulberry, tobacco and menthol. The sip is bright, almost tart with spice and plenty of ripe, red fruit.

Creekside Reserve Pinot Noir, Niagara Peninsula 2001
Price $24
Rating 89
The nose is complex and pleasing. There are aromas of mint and blackberry. The mouth is sharp with black cherry and earthy mint.

Cedar Creek Estate Select Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley 2003
Price $30
Rating 89
There are aromas of black fruit and mineral. The sip is complex with raspberry, mocha and dried  cherry.

Sumac Ridge "Black Sage Vineyard" Merlot, Okanagan 2002
Price $20
Rating 88
The nose is soft with anise and mulberry. The entry of the sip is both shrill and bitter. This red needs time to come around and must be served with food. Time shows that this

Osoyoos Larose "Le Grand Vin" Rouge, Okanagan 2002
Price $40
Rating 90
The flavors are dark and dusty with soft tannins. There is cassis and mocha in the long length. The blend is 57% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 7% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. This winery is part of the same ownership group that owns Chateau Gruard Larose.

Malivoire "Moira Vineyard" Chardonnay, Niagara Penninsula 2003
Price $27
Rating 92
The nose is complex with toasted hazelnut and subtle butter. There are crisp flavors of apple, citrus, butter and gentle toasted oak.

Henry of Pelham Riesling, Niagara on the Lake 2003
Price $11
Rating 90
The sip is bracing with concentrated lemon, lime and green apple. It is very full bodied for a Riesling.

Henry of Pelham Chardonnay, Niagara on the Lake 2002
Price $15
Rating 92
The nose is assetive with butter and toasted oak. The sip is chewy with apple, pear, lemon, butter and toasty oak in the long finish.

Henry of Pelham Unfiltered Pinot Noir, Niagara on the Lake 2003
Price $16
Rating 87
The sip is bright with red cherry and plum, with herbal notes in the finish.

Quails' Gate "Family Reserve" Pinot Noir, Okanagan 2003
Price $28
Rating 86
Aromas of earthy cherry are followed by flavors of cherry. There is a touch of bitterness and Bret (a bacterial influence to the wine. This is a style of Pinot Noir that some prefer and some do not. It must be served with food to be fully appreciated.

Inniskillin Pinot Noir, Niagara 2002
Price $11
Rating 85
Canadian wine journalist Natalie Maclean says it is "light to medium bodied with aromas of dark cherries. Simple and easy-drinking. Perfect with salmon, pate and grilled fish, such as the recipe for Indian grilled fish, though it's also one of those wines that swing both ways when it comes to chicken or steak." For more articles and wine picks, visit www.nataliemaclean.com.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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