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The white wine pinot

By Darryl Beeson

There are many names for this light, refreshing grape and the white wine it yields.

Pinot Grigio is known as Pinot Gris in most of France, excepting Alsace where it is sometimes dignified as Tokay-Pinot Gris. Pinot fiends realize that Pinot Grigio is called Malvoisie in Switzerland, Rutlaner (when it's sweet) in Germany, and Grauburgunder (when it's dry) in Germany. Luckily in most other parts of the world where it is grown with success, such as Oregon, California, and the state of Victoria in Australia, the simpler
Pinot Gris name sort of stuck.

Bella Sera Pinot Grigio, Venezie 2004
Price $8
Rating 86
Bella Sera is the queen of back deck diplomacy- an affordable wine that tastes acceptably and is affordable. You can always open this one for the neighbors. Light citrus and mineral in the pleasant sip.

Esperto Pinot Grigio, Venizie 2003
Price $12
Rating 86
Light, simple and refreshing. Serve with the same kinds of food.

Estancia Pinot Gris, California 2004
Price $15
Rating 90
"In the nose, you'll find pear, pippin apple, grapefruit, orange zest and honey with a hint of white pepper and cardamom," boasts winemaker Ken Shyvers.

Forest Glen Pinot Grigio, California 2004
Price $7.99
Rating 87
Another patio pleaser, Forest Glen offers wines of very fine quality, and better yet, they tend to be widely available. This Pinot Grigio is crisp upon the first sip. There is lemon, lime, and tropical fruit. The finish exhibits hints of roasted nuts, perhaps hazelnut.

J Pinot Gris, Russian River 2004
Price $18
Rating 84
The sip is disjointed, similar to over-ripe melon. There is a lack of crispness. For the money, you can do better elsewhere.

King Estate Pinot Gris, Oregon 2004
Price $17
Rating 91
Crisp grapefruit and lime lead the way, followed by ripe flavors of melon, mango and a honeyed zest. The nice, lengthy finish ends with crisp citrus.

King Estate Reserve Pinot Grigio, Oregon 2003
Price $24
Rating 92
"The nose is distinctively yet delicately floral leading to a palate of tropical fruit, finely balanced with a hint of tangerine and even honey. It is a most elegant and smooth wine with a delightfully lingering finish," observes www.wineontheweb.com editor-in-chief Andrew Jones.

Kris Pinot Grigio, Trentino-Alto-Adige 2004
Price $12
Rating 91
Franz Haas belongs to the fifth generation of a family of cellar masters. Very much a perfectionist, he is constantly producing one of Italy's exceptional value Pinot Grigios.

MacMurray Ranch Pinot Gris, Russian River 2004
Price $17
Rating 91
Aromas of cashew butter and fresh herbs, then flavors of tropical lime, cashew and
delicate citrus floral. Think big and full-flavored.

Long Vineyards "Laird Vineyard" Pinot Grigio, Napa 2003
Price $20
Rating 89
"This is not your Italian Pinot Grigio," explains winemaker Bob Long. "It has California body and is immediately forward with fruit, rich and silky with honey and subtle, cool tropical fruit flavors, persistent aromatics, bright acidity and a long finish."

Maso Canali Pinot Grigio, Trentino 2004
Price $23
Rating 89
The nose is rich with melon, with delicate citrus. The sip leads with mineral, then soft melon and citrus blossom.

Pepi Pinot Grigio, California 2004
Price $11
Rating 88
The screw top says simplicity. The wine steps forward with ample, creamy flavors, followed by mineral complexity in the medium finish.

Pighin Pinot Grigio, Collio 2004
Price $13.99
Rating 89
This is a remarkable, 100% estate produced Pinot Grigio, from Pighin's own Collio vineyards. Extended cold fermentation in stainless steel vats ensures that a good balance of freshness and acidity is achieved.

Santa Margarita Pinot Grigio, Alto Aldige 2004
Price $23
Rating 87
The most famous Pinot Grigio import in the United States, if not the world, may be
resting on its laurels. The sip has more tree fruit along with mineral. Good, but not great, then consider the price.

Swanson Pinot Gris, Napa 2003
Price $19
Rating 89
The nose is bright with citrus and complex with mineral. There are flavors of mineral and ripe melon within the medium, not light, mouthfeel. This white steps up to the plate.

Tommasi "Le Rosse" Pinot Grigio, Piedmont 2004
Price $14
Rating 82
The flavors are diluted and the limited length on the palate reveals a flabby wine. The public enjoys the lighter aspects of Pinot Grigio. Perhaps not this light. Pair with fish or light chicken dishes.

Vega Vinaia Pinot Grigio, Trentino 2004
Price $10 estimate
Rating 79
Light and simple, there is no there in the glass. Invest in mineral water instead as it is less expensive.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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