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The Canary Islands - Spain's Hawaii

By Richard Frisbie
 

The Canary Islands are closer to the North African coast then to Spain, and are commonly referred to as Spain's Hawaii. While flying there I thought
that nothing could beat the fun I had earlier that week in Madeira. It did not take me long to learn how wrong I could be. Tenerife is the largest of
the seven main islands that make up Spain's Canary Islands. They are Madeira's equal in scenic and natural beauty, only they are larger, and there are more of them.

As is typical with these islands, the northern side of Tenerife is wetter and cooler - therefore greener -  a perfect climate for the lush vegetation I sought. I flew into the incredibly modern and brand new North airport, in La Laguna, avoiding the southern, very touristy, section of the island.
Typically, a casual visitor would land at the South airport and head right for the warm beaches, missing all the interior beauty. This was not a casual visit. I was here to experience one of the best natural environments in the world; one with the most diverse ecosystem. I was on a horticultural mission. The Canary Islands are a gardener's paradise.

The Botanico Hotel and Oriental Spa had the right name for this theme trip, and its location across the street from the Botanical Gardens was just icing on the cake. The fact that it is a 5 star hotel was incidental, but most appreciated when the exertions of the day can be melted away in a warm Jacuzzi. Ahh - life's simple pleasures. The Botanico also has lush gardens of its own surrounding the various ponds, pools and patios on the expansive grounds. But the best reason to stay at the Botanico is that it is the first hotel in Tenerife immersed in the plans of the Biosphere Hotels, Institute of Sustainable Tourism, as supported by UNESCO. Currently, that means that construction was ongoing during my stay to install the only air-conditioning system on the island that meets modern environmental standards. Their new system will greatly reduce the energy and water needed to cool the facility.  Staying there supports their commitment to a cleaner environment. It was after dark when I finally got checked in, so I had a quick shower and dressed for a late dinner with the hotel's head of public relations.  Local PR people may have a handle on the best excursions, but as we hashed out an itinerary, I kept room in it for the places the locals I met on the plane had recommended. Following their advice provided the real highlights of the trip.

From my balcony the next morning I saw the first light glowing red on the snow capped Mt. Tiede (rhymes with lady.) As the lowlands brightened I threw on some clothes and grabbed a camera. Time for my morning walk.  First stop was the Botanical Gardens, where I peeked through the wrought iron fence as I paced the exterior, impatient for it to open.  This I repeated each morning but, sadly, my schedule was so tight that I never did get inside to see the over 5000 plants on display from nearly every continent. However, my  limited view made me aware of the biodiversity I would discover on my adventures into the National Parks that fill the interior of the island. The Botanical Garden was like a zoo, and I wanted to see the plants in the wild. Next I walked briskly a few blocks farther to a cliff-top promenade and watched the sun rise over the black sand beaches of Santa Cruz far below. Ahh! - blue skies and seventy degrees at seven AM - ideal weather for a very busy day.

During my brief sojourn I traveled to the Canary island's remnant Lauressilva, wreathed in the clouds, as in Madeira, but somewhat smaller. It is the crown forest of Mt. Tiede whose barren cone rises above the ancient verdant forest. This high dessert landscape, almost lunar in appearance, features unusual endemic plants growing among the lava flows, and fantastic rock formations, some familiar to all Spaniards because they once decorated their pre-Euro money. But after hiking up the volcano, and through the temperate rainforest-like lauressilva, I think I enjoyed most just walking the streets of  several old villages. As I  toured the many public gardens and peered into the private ones, I admired the old architecture.

The Canary Island architecture reminded me of houses on Key West. They are fun, and functional and relaxed, with center courtyards, and 2 or 3 stories of balconies  with rooms off them. They are constructed of stuccoed stone, with exposed beams and woodwork of intricately carved Canary Island pine. The exterior windows are shuttered with the same wood. It is prized for its high resin content, which contributes to its versatility and longevity for outdoor uses. It is used inside too, so the quaint inns I saw were elegant in their natural simplicity. Stucco, stone, and  weathered wood  facades, topped with red tile roofs, line the old cobblestone streets in the village centers.

Garachio is a typical old village on the north shore. It was once the main port before the volcano filled the harbor with lava, leaving pools that line the rugged oceanfront where the strong sunlight warms the cool Atlantic waters. These swimming holes are packed with locals on Sunday afternoons, as families enjoy their traditional day off, but are only mildly crowded the rest of the week. There is also a large concrete swimming pool, and a playground, making this a good family destination.

The buildings that were turned into small inns or hotels were charming, with pools and common spaces in the center. Walking through their peaceful interiors I could forget about the bustle outside, and imagine a restful vacation reading, and perhaps exploring the many nearby gardens and shops for a change of pace. Others were shops with odd little rooms filled with lace or pottery (local specialties) and all manner of things for sale.

One nightspot, ABACO, was in a beautiful old estate just up the street from my hotel. It was something my fellow travelers told me of, far below any tourism radar. It was built in the typical island style, but expanded, so the main house was 'L' shaped, with extensive exterior gardens and pools, surrounded by outbuildings or walls on the other sides. The interior and exterior woodwork was extraordinary, and the furnishings were exquisite. The most unusual aspect was that every room was decorated with mounds of fruits and vegetables arranged around an extravagance of cut flowers. Each was over-the-top stunning! Combined, they made a dramatic impact as something I've never seen before. Abaco is a must, either for after dinner drinks as we did, or for Sunday afternoon high tea.

After ABACO, restaurants were the most exciting buildings I saw. One, Restaurant Regulo, located in the heart of the historical quarter of Puerto de la Cruz, has the best seafood in Tenerife. There are tables in the courtyard with staircases rising to individual dining rooms, and a rabbit's warren of rooms to explore off the balconies. We picked our shellfish from the aquarium in the atrium, and our fish from a platter of just-caught specimens the waiter brought to the table, their eyes still clear, and their fins flapping. Talk about FRESH! The appetizers ranged from elaborate constructions of rolled smoked salmon on grilled pineapple slices, to sauteed octopus strips with potatoes, deep-fried whole sardines, and fried shrimp and cod balls. The main course was 'vieja', (translates to the unappetizing "old fish") a panfish unique to the Canarias. By the time it arrived, simply grilled with garlic, I barely had room to do it justice. It was a simple, fresh and elegantly served meal. Be sure to make reservations there when you are in Tenerife.

The cuisine of the Canary Islands combines traditional Spanish recipes with African and Latin American influences. Complex soups and stews are typical native fare. Every meal includes 'gofio', a local "bread" made of ground toasted grains baked into small cakes. I had it served as an appetizer with sorrento ham, local cow cheese, and garlic-olive oil, and as a dessert sweetened with sugar cane honey and served with fruit.  Another local dish is made of salty small new potatoes called wrinkled potatoes, or 'papas arrugadas'. Their real flavor comes from the garlicky olive oil-based sauces, or 'mojos' they are eaten with.  Traditionally two are served: the spicy red picón and the mild green verde.  Plantains, and the local small banana the Canary Islands are known for, are frequently served with either local seafood or grilled meats to complete the
meal.

One of the most arcane bits of information I learned on my trip was very surprising. No, it wasn't that the Islands weren't named after the canary bird, but rather named  -- depending upon whom you talk to -- after the original people, wild dogs, or seals. It was stranger than that. Whistling is a Tenerife language! La Gomera was once an isolated rural community in the interior of Tenerife that is now easily accessed by automobile. Before it was "opened up", whistling was a form of communication between the homes that were widely separated across the valley. It was a more complex expression of ideas than just attention getting -- they were really talking!  In an effort to preserve their early heritage, this whistling language is still taught in the local school.  In the town of La Orotava there is a great restaurant called Sabor Canario.  The food is served in the central courtyard of a typical Canary Island structure. Here the grilled meat seemed a specialty. I had an incredible sirloin, but everything from rabbit cooked three times, to chicken, to salmon, looked and smelled great coming out of the kitchen.  This was also an inn, and the host graciously showed off some of the rooms on the upper balcony. They were beautifully painted in rich ochre and orange, with the exposed stone and burnished woodwork I'd come to expect.  They even had a pool in a neighboring courtyard.  At about 75 Euros a day for two, including breakfast, this could easily be my home for an extended stay.

One room displayed the remnants of a museum of Canary Island history that used to be housed here. The original people, known as Guanches, were a tall light-skinned people who made pottery and enjoyed a sophisticated social structure. They lived in caves, but because there are no metals on the islands they had tools and weapons made of stone and wood. They had a simple, but not necessarily primitive culture. The Spanish conquered them to acquire important harbors on lucrative trade routes. The islands are so strategic that I can understand why the Conquistadors wanted to control them, but I regret the civilization lost to accomplish it. I promised myself to be better in my travels, and learn more about the indigenous peoples, now gone, whose ancestral lands I was enjoying.

All too soon my visit was over, again with trails untrod and gardens unseen.  On the flight back to Madrid I sat next to a Spanish businessman named Gerardo. He was reading a Dan Brown novel in Spanish, keeping his place with a bookmark from a company he liked. My bookmark was a postcard of the Adirondacks. When he told me he collected bookmarks I offered him mine, and we traded. Then we enjoyed the rest of the flight talking about books, business, tourism and his wonderful country. I even got some language help when he compared Iberian Spanish with the Central American Spanish I was more familiar with. Just before we disembarked he remarked that I was wearing slacks, not shorts, that I'd made an attempt to understand his customs and language, and that I had an outgoing and friendly demeanor. Then he gave me a wonderful compliment, "You are a European American. America should send more like you here." Then he gave me a Costa Rican salute between comrades, "Pura Vida!", meaning literally pure life, but it is actually a potent call for greatness upon meeting or parting. So,  "Pura Vida!" my friend, until I return.

When You Go

Hotel Botanico & Oriental Spa
http://www.hotelbotanico.com

Sabor Canario
traditional inn and restaurant in La Orotava
http://www.saborcanario.com

Restaurant Regulo
located at Calle Perez Zamora, 16
38004, Puerto de la Cruz

Tenerife Tourism
http://www.abouttenerife.com/

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