The Canary Islands are closer to the North African coast then to Spain, and
are commonly referred to as Spain's Hawaii. While flying there I thought
that nothing could beat the fun I had earlier that week in Madeira. It did not
take me long to learn how wrong I could be. Tenerife is the largest of
the seven main islands that make up Spain's Canary Islands. They are Madeira's
equal in scenic and natural beauty, only they are larger, and there are more of
them.
As is typical with these islands, the northern side of
Tenerife is wetter and cooler - therefore greener - a perfect climate for the
lush vegetation I sought. I flew into the incredibly modern and brand new North
airport, in La Laguna, avoiding the southern, very touristy, section of the
island.
Typically, a casual visitor would land at the South airport and head right for
the warm beaches, missing all the interior beauty. This was not a casual visit.
I was here to experience one of the best natural environments in the world; one
with the most diverse ecosystem. I was on a horticultural mission. The Canary
Islands are a gardener's paradise.
The
Botanico Hotel and Oriental Spa had the right name for this theme trip, and its
location across the street from the Botanical Gardens was just icing on the
cake. The fact that it is a 5 star hotel was incidental, but most appreciated
when the exertions of the day can be melted away in a warm Jacuzzi. Ahh - life's
simple pleasures. The Botanico also has lush gardens of its own surrounding the
various ponds, pools and patios on the expansive grounds. But the best reason to
stay at the Botanico is that it is the first hotel in Tenerife immersed in the
plans of the Biosphere Hotels, Institute of Sustainable Tourism, as supported by
UNESCO.
Currently,
that means that construction was ongoing during my stay to install the only
air-conditioning system on the island that meets modern environmental standards.
Their new system will greatly reduce the energy and water needed to cool the
facility. Staying there supports their commitment to a cleaner
environment. It was after dark when I finally got checked in, so I had a quick
shower and dressed for a late dinner with the hotel's head of public relations.
Local PR people may have a handle on the best excursions, but as we hashed out
an itinerary, I kept room in it for the places the locals I met on the plane had
recommended. Following their advice provided the real highlights of the trip.
From
my balcony the next morning I saw the first light glowing red on the snow capped
Mt. Tiede (rhymes with lady.) As the lowlands brightened I threw on some clothes
and grabbed a camera. Time for my morning walk. First stop was the
Botanical Gardens, where I peeked through the wrought iron fence as I paced the
exterior, impatient for it to open. This I repeated each morning but,
sadly, my schedule was so tight that I never did get inside to see the over 5000
plants on display from nearly every continent. However, my limited view made me
aware of the biodiversity I would discover on my adventures into the National
Parks that fill the interior of the island. The Botanical Garden was like a zoo,
and I wanted to see the plants in the wild. Next I walked briskly a few blocks
farther to a cliff-top promenade and watched the sun rise over the black sand
beaches of Santa Cruz far below. Ahh! - blue skies and seventy degrees at seven
AM - ideal weather for a very busy day.
During
my brief sojourn I traveled to the Canary island's remnant Lauressilva, wreathed
in the clouds, as in Madeira, but somewhat smaller. It is the crown forest of
Mt. Tiede whose barren cone rises above the ancient verdant forest. This high
dessert landscape, almost lunar in appearance, features unusual endemic plants
growing among the lava flows, and fantastic rock formations, some familiar to
all Spaniards because they once decorated their pre-Euro money. But after hiking
up the volcano, and through the temperate rainforest-like lauressilva, I think I
enjoyed most just walking the streets of several old villages. As I toured the
many public gardens and peered into the private ones, I admired the old
architecture.
The Canary Island architecture reminded me of houses on Key
West.
They
are fun, and functional and relaxed, with center courtyards, and 2 or 3 stories
of balconies with rooms off them. They are constructed of stuccoed stone, with
exposed beams and woodwork of intricately carved Canary Island pine. The
exterior windows are shuttered with the same wood. It is prized for its high
resin content, which contributes to its versatility and longevity for outdoor
uses. It is used inside too, so the quaint inns I saw were elegant in their
natural simplicity. Stucco, stone, and weathered wood facades, topped with red
tile roofs, line the old cobblestone streets in the village centers.
Garachio
is a typical old village on the north shore. It was once the main port before
the volcano filled the harbor with lava, leaving pools that line the rugged
oceanfront where the strong sunlight warms the cool Atlantic waters. These
swimming holes are packed with locals on Sunday afternoons, as families enjoy
their traditional day off, but are only mildly crowded the rest of the week.
There is also a large concrete swimming pool, and a playground, making this a
good family destination.
The
buildings that were turned into small inns or hotels were charming, with pools
and common spaces in the center. Walking through their peaceful interiors I
could forget about the bustle outside, and imagine a restful vacation reading,
and perhaps exploring the many nearby gardens and shops for a change of pace.
Others were shops with odd little rooms filled with lace or pottery (local
specialties) and all manner of things for sale.
One
nightspot, ABACO, was in a beautiful old estate just up the street from my
hotel. It was something my fellow travelers told me of, far below any tourism
radar. It was built in the typical island style, but expanded, so the main house
was 'L' shaped, with extensive exterior gardens and pools, surrounded by
outbuildings or walls on the other sides. The interior and exterior woodwork was
extraordinary, and the furnishings were exquisite. The most unusual aspect was
that every room was decorated with mounds of fruits and vegetables arranged
around an extravagance of cut flowers. Each was over-the-top stunning! Combined,
they made a dramatic impact as something I've never seen before. Abaco is a
must, either for after dinner drinks as we did, or for Sunday afternoon high
tea.
After ABACO, restaurants were the most exciting buildings I
saw. One, Restaurant Regulo, located in the heart of the historical quarter of
Puerto de la Cruz, has the best seafood in Tenerife. There are tables in the
courtyard with staircases rising to individual dining rooms, and a rabbit's
warren of rooms to explore off the balconies. We picked our shellfish from the
aquarium in the atrium, and our fish from a platter of just-caught specimens the
waiter brought to the table, their eyes still clear, and their fins flapping.
Talk about FRESH!
The
appetizers ranged from elaborate constructions of rolled smoked salmon on
grilled pineapple slices, to sauteed octopus strips with potatoes, deep-fried
whole sardines, and fried shrimp and cod balls. The main course was 'vieja',
(translates to the unappetizing "old fish") a panfish unique to the Canarias. By
the time it arrived, simply grilled with garlic, I barely had room to do it
justice. It was a simple, fresh and elegantly served meal. Be sure to make
reservations there when you are in Tenerife.
The
cuisine of the Canary Islands combines traditional Spanish recipes with African
and Latin American influences. Complex soups and stews are typical native fare.
Every meal includes 'gofio', a local "bread" made of ground toasted grains baked
into small cakes. I had it served as an appetizer with sorrento ham, local cow
cheese, and garlic-olive oil, and as a dessert sweetened with sugar cane honey
and served with fruit. Another local dish is made of salty small new
potatoes called wrinkled potatoes, or 'papas arrugadas'. Their real flavor comes
from the garlicky olive oil-based sauces, or 'mojos' they are eaten with.
Traditionally two are served: the spicy red picón and the mild green verde.
Plantains, and the local small banana the Canary Islands are known for, are
frequently served with either local seafood or grilled meats to complete the
meal.
One of the most arcane bits of information I learned on my
trip was very surprising. No, it wasn't that the Islands weren't named after the
canary bird, but rather named -- depending upon whom you talk to -- after the
original people, wild dogs, or seals. It was stranger than that. Whistling is a
Tenerife language! La Gomera was once an isolated rural community in the
interior of Tenerife that is now easily accessed by automobile. Before it was
"opened up", whistling was a form of communication between the homes that were
widely separated across the valley. It was a more complex expression of ideas
than just attention getting -- they were really talking! In an effort to
preserve their early heritage, this whistling language is still taught in the
local school. In the town of La Orotava there is a great restaurant called
Sabor Canario. The food is served in the central courtyard of a typical
Canary Island structure.
Here
the grilled meat seemed a specialty. I had an incredible sirloin, but everything
from rabbit cooked three times, to chicken, to salmon, looked and smelled great
coming out of the kitchen. This was also an inn, and the host graciously
showed off some of the rooms on the upper balcony. They were beautifully painted
in rich ochre and orange, with the exposed stone and burnished woodwork I'd come
to expect. They even had a pool in a neighboring courtyard. At about 75
Euros a day for two, including breakfast, this could easily be my home for an
extended stay.
One room displayed the remnants of a museum of Canary
Island history that used to be housed here. The original people, known as
Guanches, were a tall light-skinned people who made pottery and enjoyed a
sophisticated social structure. They lived in caves, but because there are no
metals on the islands they had tools and weapons made of stone and wood. They
had a simple, but not necessarily primitive culture. The Spanish conquered them
to acquire important harbors on lucrative trade routes. The islands are so
strategic that I can understand why the Conquistadors wanted to control them,
but I regret the civilization lost to accomplish it. I promised myself to be
better in my travels, and learn more about the indigenous peoples, now gone,
whose ancestral lands I was enjoying.
All too soon my visit was over, again with trails untrod
and gardens unseen. On the flight back to Madrid I sat next to a Spanish
businessman named Gerardo. He was reading a Dan Brown novel in Spanish, keeping
his place with a bookmark from a company he liked. My bookmark was a postcard of
the Adirondacks. When he told me he collected bookmarks I offered him mine, and
we traded. Then we enjoyed the rest of the flight talking about books, business,
tourism and his wonderful country. I even got some language help when he
compared Iberian Spanish with the Central American Spanish I was more familiar
with. Just before we disembarked he remarked that I was wearing slacks, not
shorts, that I'd made an attempt to understand his customs and language, and
that I had an outgoing and friendly demeanor. Then he gave me a wonderful
compliment, "You are a European American. America should send more like you
here." Then he gave me a Costa Rican salute between comrades, "Pura Vida!",
meaning literally pure life, but it is actually a potent call for greatness upon
meeting or parting. So, "Pura Vida!" my friend, until I return.
TM
The
Botanico Hotel and Oriental Spa had the right name for this theme trip, and its
location across the street from the Botanical Gardens was just icing on the
cake. The fact that it is a 5 star hotel was incidental, but most appreciated
when the exertions of the day can be melted away in a warm Jacuzzi. Ahh - life's
simple pleasures. The Botanico also has lush gardens of its own surrounding the
various ponds, pools and patios on the expansive grounds. But the best reason to
stay at the Botanico is that it is the first hotel in Tenerife immersed in the
plans of the Biosphere Hotels, Institute of Sustainable Tourism, as supported by
UNESCO.
Currently,
that means that construction was ongoing during my stay to install the only
air-conditioning system on the island that meets modern environmental standards.
Their new system will greatly reduce the energy and water needed to cool the
facility. Staying there supports their commitment to a cleaner
environment. It was after dark when I finally got checked in, so I had a quick
shower and dressed for a late dinner with the hotel's head of public relations.
Local PR people may have a handle on the best excursions, but as we hashed out
an itinerary, I kept room in it for the places the locals I met on the plane had
recommended. Following their advice provided the real highlights of the trip.
From
my balcony the next morning I saw the first light glowing red on the snow capped
Mt. Tiede (rhymes with lady.) As the lowlands brightened I threw on some clothes
and grabbed a camera. Time for my morning walk. First stop was the
Botanical Gardens, where I peeked through the wrought iron fence as I paced the
exterior, impatient for it to open. This I repeated each morning but,
sadly, my schedule was so tight that I never did get inside to see the over 5000
plants on display from nearly every continent. However, my limited view made me
aware of the biodiversity I would discover on my adventures into the National
Parks that fill the interior of the island. The Botanical Garden was like a zoo,
and I wanted to see the plants in the wild. Next I walked briskly a few blocks
farther to a cliff-top promenade and watched the sun rise over the black sand
beaches of Santa Cruz far below. Ahh! - blue skies and seventy degrees at seven
AM - ideal weather for a very busy day.
During
my brief sojourn I traveled to the Canary island's remnant Lauressilva, wreathed
in the clouds, as in Madeira, but somewhat smaller. It is the crown forest of
Mt. Tiede whose barren cone rises above the ancient verdant forest. This high
dessert landscape, almost lunar in appearance, features unusual endemic plants
growing among the lava flows, and fantastic rock formations, some familiar to
all Spaniards because they once decorated their pre-Euro money. But after hiking
up the volcano, and through the temperate rainforest-like lauressilva, I think I
enjoyed most just walking the streets of several old villages. As I toured the
many public gardens and peered into the private ones, I admired the old
architecture.
They
are fun, and functional and relaxed, with center courtyards, and 2 or 3 stories
of balconies with rooms off them. They are constructed of stuccoed stone, with
exposed beams and woodwork of intricately carved Canary Island pine. The
exterior windows are shuttered with the same wood. It is prized for its high
resin content, which contributes to its versatility and longevity for outdoor
uses. It is used inside too, so the quaint inns I saw were elegant in their
natural simplicity. Stucco, stone, and weathered wood facades, topped with red
tile roofs, line the old cobblestone streets in the village centers.
Garachio
is a typical old village on the north shore. It was once the main port before
the volcano filled the harbor with lava, leaving pools that line the rugged
oceanfront where the strong sunlight warms the cool Atlantic waters. These
swimming holes are packed with locals on Sunday afternoons, as families enjoy
their traditional day off, but are only mildly crowded the rest of the week.
There is also a large concrete swimming pool, and a playground, making this a
good family destination.
The
buildings that were turned into small inns or hotels were charming, with pools
and common spaces in the center. Walking through their peaceful interiors I
could forget about the bustle outside, and imagine a restful vacation reading,
and perhaps exploring the many nearby gardens and shops for a change of pace.
Others were shops with odd little rooms filled with lace or pottery (local
specialties) and all manner of things for sale.
One
nightspot, ABACO, was in a beautiful old estate just up the street from my
hotel. It was something my fellow travelers told me of, far below any tourism
radar. It was built in the typical island style, but expanded, so the main house
was 'L' shaped, with extensive exterior gardens and pools, surrounded by
outbuildings or walls on the other sides. The interior and exterior woodwork was
extraordinary, and the furnishings were exquisite. The most unusual aspect was
that every room was decorated with mounds of fruits and vegetables arranged
around an extravagance of cut flowers. Each was over-the-top stunning! Combined,
they made a dramatic impact as something I've never seen before. Abaco is a
must, either for after dinner drinks as we did, or for Sunday afternoon high
tea.
The
appetizers ranged from elaborate constructions of rolled smoked salmon on
grilled pineapple slices, to sauteed octopus strips with potatoes, deep-fried
whole sardines, and fried shrimp and cod balls. The main course was 'vieja',
(translates to the unappetizing "old fish") a panfish unique to the Canarias. By
the time it arrived, simply grilled with garlic, I barely had room to do it
justice. It was a simple, fresh and elegantly served meal. Be sure to make
reservations there when you are in Tenerife.
The
cuisine of the Canary Islands combines traditional Spanish recipes with African
and Latin American influences. Complex soups and stews are typical native fare.
Every meal includes 'gofio', a local "bread" made of ground toasted grains baked
into small cakes. I had it served as an appetizer with sorrento ham, local cow
cheese, and garlic-olive oil, and as a dessert sweetened with sugar cane honey
and served with fruit. Another local dish is made of salty small new
potatoes called wrinkled potatoes, or 'papas arrugadas'. Their real flavor comes
from the garlicky olive oil-based sauces, or 'mojos' they are eaten with.
Traditionally two are served: the spicy red picón and the mild green verde.
Plantains, and the local small banana the Canary Islands are known for, are
frequently served with either local seafood or grilled meats to complete the
Here
the grilled meat seemed a specialty. I had an incredible sirloin, but everything
from rabbit cooked three times, to chicken, to salmon, looked and smelled great
coming out of the kitchen. This was also an inn, and the host graciously
showed off some of the rooms on the upper balcony. They were beautifully painted
in rich ochre and orange, with the exposed stone and burnished woodwork I'd come
to expect. They even had a pool in a neighboring courtyard. At about 75
Euros a day for two, including breakfast, this could easily be my home for an
extended stay.