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Charleston: the Foodies ParadiseDiscovering the Queen of the Low CountryBy Norman MarkVisiting Charleston, S. C., that grand, sophisticated lady of a city, is like traveling to a foreign country except you do not have to change your money, you can drink the water and you can understand most of what is said without much translation. In addition, Charleston is a foodies paradise, with a world-class collection of restaurants. But more of that later. This “low country” area, as it is called, is swamped with history. Fort Sumter, where the Civil War began (called “the Recent Unpleasantness,” by some Charlestonians), is a short cruise across the harbor. There are also several nearby plantations which offer glimpses of times gone by. We drove 25 minutes out of Charleston to Middleton Place (4100 Ashley River Rd.), with America’s oldest landscaped gardens, which had a gigantic crepe Myrtle, a live oak with 145-foot branches, and camellia and rose gardens. This was a successful plantation until five years after the owner signed the Ordinance of Secession, which separated the Southern states from the union. Guides there remain puzzled as to why Northerners would ever want to destroy this particular property. Just outside the magnificent gardens, we walked past a low, brick-strewn hill that marked the one wing (or “flanker”) of the original house that the Yankees destroyed at the end of that Recent Unpleasantness. The mansion has many family portraits and some fine pre-Unpleasantness furniture. We stayed for lunch and enjoyed such low country cuisine as African peanut and okra soup and a main course of shrimp and organic, stone-ground grits. By the end of the meal, we were speaking in a slight drawl. Nearby Drayton Hall (3380 Ashley River Road) was another plantation worthy of a visit even though it has no furniture in it. During the Civil War, the owners removed the lead flashing from the roof and donated it for bullets. As a result, water got in the house and ruined the ceilings, which had to be rehabilitated before tourists could enter. Within Charleston, we toured the fascinating Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon, where imprisoned puppet pirates told of hardships that made Johnny Depp’s problems in “Pirates of the Caribbean” seem like a walk on a padded plank. The Edmonston-Alston House, at 21 East Battery, dates from 1825. The separate house out back, which held the kitchen and slaves quarters, was called “the dependency.” Ah the wonders of Southern language usage. The veranda has a joggling board, which allows lovers to sit and sway on a sagging length of lumber. I could learn to love joggling. History came alive as we toured Charleston. But it was food that caused us to fall in love with the city.
We began our three-hour-plus tour at the outdoor market in the park in front of the Francis Marion hotel, where Amanda exclaimed, “Look at this perfect okra!! The sugar figs are here, oh yes, oh, oh!!” We tasted and toured the various stands. Then we walked to Ted’s Butcherblock (334 East Bay), a wonderland of specialty items including kielbasa, game, gourmet cheeses from around the world, mustards and lots of wines. The Lucas Belgian Chocolate (73 State St.) provided an in-depth education about the vast differences between true chocolate and the almost tasteless stuff found in most inexpensive chocolate bars. It was a perfect desert ending to a not-to-be-missed food tour. There seemed to be a plethora of excellent, distinctive restaurants, a foodie’s delight.
We stayed at the Francis Marion Hotel (387 King St.), a gloriously restored, comfortable hotel with 230 newly renovated rooms. Try to reserve the Presidential Suite that offers unparalleled views of Charleston plus a dining room, living room, kitchen and two bathrooms. Don’t forget the traditional breakfast with delicious grits, smoked meats and fresh fruit.
The restaurants: SNOB aka Slightly North of Broad (192 East Bay) is in a former, 19th century warehouse and is a large, open room of high energy and joyous cooking. Our favorites included the shrimp and grits with a tomato broth, gazpacho, and the crab salad. GQ Magazine has awarded a Golden Dish for SNOB’s grits.
At Cordavi (14 N. Market), the chef’s tasting menu began with fois gras powder and sauterne jelly in a spoon. Each course was more special—all are impossible to prepare at home: the corn soup was served in a plastic syringe that we squirted in our mouth, the barramundi with carrot yolk was raised on soy and protein, the braised short ribs had been slow cooked for 36 hours. We ate a poached quail egg, seared duck breast in tomato confit, fillet with a parsnip puree bordelaise sauce and caramel jelly in a green apple sorbet. Everything was so fancy and so special, I almost expected the chefs to immolate themselves at the end of the meal. The food, the history, the people, the active restoration of so many 160+-year-old homes, and the delight of discovery: Charleston is a destination that is not to be missed. |
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If you visit Charleston, try to spend a Saturday morning
with Amanda Dew Manning of the Carolina Food Pros (843 723-3366). This
delightful and infinitely enthusiastic foodie served in the Department of
Agriculture under President Clinton.
Our first night we ate at Magnolias, (185 E. Bay 845
577-7771), where the catfish pate was delightful, the flat bread delicious, the
fried green tomatoes Southern to the nth degree, and the crab soup was tasty and
filling.
One delightful evening, we attended the first annual
Palate/Palette Benefit, which is such a good idea that other cities ought to
imitate it. On that warm July night, when galleries and perhaps even restaurants
might want for customers, 14 restaurants were paired with 14 art galleries.For a
nominal charge, Palette/Palatteers could go from gallery to gallery,
experiencing the art, sampling the special tastes of one of the restaurants and
having glasses of wine.
The galleries were crowded, much of the art was
fascinating, the food was delicious, and the energy was infectious. It was a
very successful promotion. If you want to know more about creating a similar
event, call the incredibly competent (and beautiful) Sherrie Bakshi of Stylee PR
at 843.216.7417. She worked for over two years to make that evening a success.
To enter the Cintra Ristorante (16 N. Market) we walked
through a room definitely devoted to martinis. The executive chef, Thomas
Clayton, outdid himself with a meal and wine pairing that left us satiated and
giggly. The tuna and wahoo tartini rested on a glass that held tiny goldfish,
which led me to feel sorry of the living goldfish who might look up to see the
bits of flesh of their relatives. The halibut was tender, the asparagus salad
was a delight, while the oyster and watermelon soup was, well, interesting.
Tristan (55 Market) offers world cuisine with an emphasis
on fresh ingredients in a sophisticated setting. Every course was more delicious
than the last. If available, be sure to order the cucumber melon sorbet. With a
sophisticated setting, Tristan is presided over by the energetic, generous
Ciarån Duffy, a chef from Dublin and Atlanta.