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Morgan Chardonnays

By Darryl Beeson

"The Santa Lucia Highlands appellation of Monterey, from which we source most of our Chardonnay, is one of the finest in California for Burgundian varietals," boasts Morgan Winery co-founder Dan Lee. "The combination of cool temperatures, significant winds, and low rainfall stress the vines to the point where the typical growing season is 4-5 weeks longer than most California wine regions. The result is mature and intense flavors, typically apple and pear in Chardonnay. We utilize other Monterey appellations, such as the Arroyo Seco, where we get a rich Chardonnay component."

The exciting future for Morgan includes the continued development of the Double L Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands sub-appellation of Monterey. This 65-acre, organically farmed vineyard has 38 acres currently producing fine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and an acre of Syrah. Dan and Donna Lee founded Morgan Winery in 1982, with a goal of creating the finest wines possible by obtaining the highest quality fruit.

The San Francisco Chronicle featured Dan Morgan Lee of Morgan Winery as their 2003 Winemaker of the Year. For more information, visit www.morganwinery.com.

Morgan "Metallico" Chardonnay, Monterey 2004
Price $20                    
Rating 94
The nose is complex with crisp apple, pear and light butter. The sip is complex withy various tree fruit flavors, hazelnut, and citrus marmalade in the finiah. Crisp, bright, with absolutely no oak in the equation, the fruit is ripe, complex and balanced. The length is long.

"One first notes a pale straw gold color with excellent clarity in the glass," suggests owner Dan Morgan Lee. "Bright, green apple, pear, and tropical fruit aromas with toasty and fresh butter notes are noted around the edges. On the palate, the richness of texture is perfectly offset by the crisp acidity and brightness of the fruit flavors."

Morgan focuses on Burgundian varietals from Monterey's Santa Lucia Highlands. Pair this bracing and honest white wine with grilled chicken with fresh rosemary and crackedblack pepper. Also consider fresh white filey of fish with caper butter or olive oil and garlic. Consider a three cheese pizza, or maybe pasta in a cream sauce.

Morgan Chardonnay, Monterey 2004
Price $20                    
Rating 94
The nose is full of butter with delicate pear and restrained oak aromas. The sip is full flavored and well balanced with pear, citrus, butter and toasty oak, all within the long, complex finish.

Morgan "Double L Vineyard" Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands 2004
Price $55                    
Rating 95
Beautiful fruit ripeness, full-frontal, complex oak is this wine's signature. Morgan Winery’s Double L Vineyard is located in the northern end of the Santa Lucia Highlands sub appellation of Monterey, which runs down the northeast facing slopes of the coastal Santa Lucia range, overlooking the Salinas Valley, beginning about 12 miles south of the Monterey Bay. Double L is the result of winegrower Dan Morgan Lee’s passion for Burgundian varietals and his nearly three decades of Monterey winemaking experience. It is named “Double Luck” for Dan and Donna Lee’s twin daughters.

"Richly textured flavors of apple, pear, creamy vanilla and mineral/earth notes are present," adds owner Dan Lee Morgan. "The cool climate influence is apparent with the bright, food friendly acidity. The finish shows excellent length, with fruit, acidity, and texture in balance and a lingering minerality."

Morgan "Rosella's Vineyard" Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands 2004
Price $40                    
Rating 94
The wine is 100% barrel fermented in 30% new Burgundy barrels using Montrachet yeasts. The wine is aged ten months on the lees, and stirred once a week through the 6-week long malo-lactic fermentation. This wine is crisp,Burgundian and complexwithin the long finish.

Born and raised in Turlock, CA, Dan Morgan says that his early wine education was obtained by stealing sips of his parent's Mateus and Lancer's Rose. After high school, Dan headed to UC Davis with some of his ag buddies to pursue a veterinary/medical degree. While enjoying college life, Dan's academic vision cleared when he discovered he could drink wine and make a career out of it as well. His undergraduate and graduate studies were in microbiology with an emphasis on viticulture and enology. Dan's first winemaking stop was at Jekel Vineyards in Monterey County. Next stop was at Durney Vineyard in Carmel Valley and then consulting with a few wineries.

Dan met his wife Donna after she migrated north from Southern California to pursue a banking career in the Salinas Valley. Donna kept her day job for several years after the winery's inception, eventually managing the Central Coast Region for Wells Fargo's Commercial Banking Division. But the growth of the winery and their family eventually convinced her to "retire" from banking in 1997. Now, along with riding herd on their three active school-aged children, Donna oversees the financial and administrative side of the winery (being careful not to interfere with the very capable office staff). Drawing upon skills acquired during her 20-year banking career, Donna is the resident skeptic, devil's advocate and risk manager. "I'm the counter-balance to Dan," she says, "it makes for a great partnership."

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Darryl Beeson is believed to be on an extended work release program from The Betty Ford Clinic. Sometimes he violently rambles about seemingly minor issues. He has been cellar master of The Mansion on Turtle Creek (Dallas) and The Adolphus Hotel (Dallas). He now travels the world looking for great wine, spirit and food discoveries.

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