Roman Pompeii
Suspended in Time
By Chris Millikan
On August 23, Pompeii flourished, an early trading
metropolis. Three days later, she vanished under twenty feet of volcanic ash,
entombed for 1500 years by the catastrophic eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79AD.
From Naples, a port of call on the Carnival Freedom’s newly
inaugurated itinerary, our guide leads us into this sophisticated Roman city
frozen in time, entering ancient Porta Marina.
 Heading for the main city square Massimillio begins,
“Bakers, merchants and aristocrats from nearby neighborhoods patronized the
marble-paved Forum; law courts, the exchange, bustling shops and eateries and
several lavish temples surrounded it.”
Past the Temple of Venus, we pause at the Temple of Apollo,
the oldest. Twenty-eight massive columns had outlined where a single statue now
defines one end. Marble arches on both sides of the Temple of Jupiter’s wide
staircase remain intact.
Along via de la Fortuna, elegant homes stood next door to
smaller houses. At House of the Faun, an undamaged mosaic displays ‘HAVE’
meaning ‘hail-to-you,’ welcoming us into open courtyards. Its forty stylish
rooms included four magnificent dining rooms…one for each season. Carved columns
lined two immense gardens filled with statuary and fountains.
 Exiting, we spy a 2000-year-old lead pipe. “Three systems
supplied water to public baths, homes and fountains from an aqueduct-fed tank,”
reports Massimillio. “During droughts, only fountains providing drinking water
ran.”
Nearby, House of the Vetti belonging to prosperous
wine-merchants boasts original mosaics in green jade, white Carrera marble and
indigo-blue onyx…and vibrant frescoes…still decorate their entertainment rooms.
At a small house next door, we linger over earth-tone frescoes depicting
delicate flowers and winged cherubs, my favorites for their whimsy.
 At the intersection Massimillio gestures, “Locals met daily
at public fountains throughout the city…which overflowed continuously, flushing
the streets and gutters into the sea.” Pedestrians crossed these flooding
streets on elevated stones …cartwheels easily passed through spaces left between
them.
Raised sidewalks wind onward to one of 34 bakeries feeding
Pompeii’s population of 20,000. Marveling that their ovens so closely resemble
today’s brick pizza ovens, we imagine tantalizing aromas wafting on air. “During
excavations, centuries-old loaves of blackened breads were found inside many
ovens,” says Massimillio.
 Beyond the bakery, we spy another ‘welcome’ mosaic… this
time a bear holding its head announces Taberna Hedones, a tavern for high living
and self-indulgence. The marble table keeping buffet foods hot still stands in
front. Stalls selling wine, cakes, nuts, figs and bread lined busy streets;
their sliding doors left grooves in the marble.
Trying out the steppingstones, we cross the street and join
lineups of other curious tourists waiting to view faded frescoes depicting
services available in the red light district’s top brothel. Inside, surprisingly
small cells held stone beds, once covered by mattresses. Wealthier clients used
the second-story rooms bedecked with rich frescoes leaving little to the
imagination...
 Citizens had relaxed in luxury at one of Pompeii’s three
public baths. At Stabian Thermae men and women played endless games of
knucklebones amid erotic frescoes in bright reds, greens and golds. Heated water
running through wall cavities warmed rooms decorated with elaborate mosaics and
bawdy sculptures.
The Grande Theater first built in the 2nd-century BC seated
5000 patrons; the smaller semi-circular neighbor, the Odeon staged mime and
music. From topmost hillside seats, we glimpse old gladiator barracks, a
colonnaded courtyard beyond. “Gladiator-slave extraordinaire, Spartacus trained
there years before,” mentions Massimillio as we head toward the exit, “He’d
fight in the 12,000-seat amphitheater, about ten minutes away.”
With two-thirds of the city now excavated, this glorious
early civilization has re-emerged. Pompeii entices thousands of visitors
annually, just like it did in days of old.
If you’re going:
Our Carnival Cruise Ship Freedom served as a convenient
hotel for exploring Italy with leisurely port stops in Naples (Sorento, Capri,
Heracleum & Pompeii,), Civitavecchia (Rome) and Livorno (Cities of Tuscany).
Contact: www.carnival.com for
Mediterranean itineraries. |
