Roman Pompeii

Suspended in Time

By Chris Millikan

On August 23, Pompeii flourished, an early trading metropolis. Three days later, she vanished under twenty feet of volcanic ash, entombed for 1500 years by the catastrophic eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79AD.

From Naples, a port of call on the Carnival Freedom’s newly inaugurated itinerary, our guide leads us into this sophisticated Roman city frozen in time, entering ancient Porta Marina.

Heading for the main city square Massimillio begins, “Bakers, merchants and aristocrats from nearby neighborhoods patronized the marble-paved Forum; law courts, the exchange, bustling shops and eateries and several lavish temples surrounded it.”

Past the Temple of Venus, we pause at the Temple of Apollo, the oldest. Twenty-eight massive columns had outlined where a single statue now defines one end. Marble arches on both sides of the Temple of Jupiter’s wide staircase remain intact.

Along via de la Fortuna, elegant homes stood next door to smaller houses. At House of the Faun, an undamaged mosaic displays ‘HAVE’ meaning ‘hail-to-you,’ welcoming us into open courtyards. Its forty stylish rooms included four magnificent dining rooms…one for each season. Carved columns lined two immense gardens filled with statuary and fountains.

Exiting, we spy a 2000-year-old lead pipe. “Three systems supplied water to public baths, homes and fountains from an aqueduct-fed tank,” reports Massimillio. “During droughts, only fountains providing drinking water ran.”

Nearby, House of the Vetti belonging to prosperous wine-merchants boasts original mosaics in green jade, white Carrera marble and indigo-blue onyx…and vibrant frescoes…still decorate their entertainment rooms. At a small house next door, we linger over earth-tone frescoes depicting delicate flowers and winged cherubs, my favorites for their whimsy.

At the intersection Massimillio gestures, “Locals met daily at public fountains throughout the city…which overflowed continuously, flushing the streets and gutters into the sea.”   Pedestrians crossed these flooding streets on elevated stones …cartwheels easily passed through spaces left between them.

Raised sidewalks wind onward to one of 34 bakeries feeding Pompeii’s population of 20,000. Marveling that their ovens so closely resemble today’s brick pizza ovens, we imagine tantalizing aromas wafting on air. “During excavations, centuries-old loaves of blackened breads were found inside many ovens,” says Massimillio.

Beyond the bakery, we spy another ‘welcome’ mosaic… this time a bear holding its head announces Taberna Hedones, a tavern for high living and self-indulgence. The marble table keeping buffet foods hot still stands in front. Stalls selling wine, cakes, nuts, figs and bread lined busy streets; their sliding doors left grooves in the marble.

Trying out the steppingstones, we cross the street and join lineups of other curious tourists waiting to view faded frescoes depicting services available in the red light district’s top brothel. Inside, surprisingly small cells held stone beds, once covered by mattresses. Wealthier clients used the second-story rooms bedecked with rich frescoes leaving little to the imagination...

Citizens had relaxed in luxury at one of Pompeii’s three public baths. At Stabian Thermae men and women played endless games of knucklebones amid erotic frescoes in bright reds, greens and golds. Heated water running through wall cavities warmed rooms decorated with elaborate mosaics and bawdy sculptures.

The Grande Theater first built in the 2nd-century BC seated 5000 patrons; the smaller semi-circular neighbor, the Odeon staged mime and music.  From topmost hillside seats, we glimpse old gladiator barracks, a colonnaded courtyard beyond. “Gladiator-slave extraordinaire, Spartacus trained there years before,” mentions Massimillio as we head toward the exit, “He’d fight in the 12,000-seat amphitheater, about ten minutes away.”

With two-thirds of the city now excavated, this glorious early civilization has re-emerged. Pompeii entices thousands of visitors annually, just like it did in days of old.

If you’re going:

Our Carnival Cruise Ship Freedom served as a convenient hotel for exploring Italy with leisurely port stops in Naples (Sorento, Capri, Heracleum & Pompeii,), Civitavecchia (Rome) and Livorno (Cities of Tuscany).  Contact: www.carnival.com for Mediterranean itineraries.