DeLoach Vineyards- five 90+ Score wines!
By Darryl Beeson
Winemaker Greg La Follette, born in Europe, brings an
old-world view to wine. It is raised rather than "made.” After studying at UC
Davis, the top US school for wine, he continued on -the-job studies at Beaulieu
Vineyard as research viticulturist/enologist, groomed by legend winemaster André
Tchelistcheff.
From BV, LaFollette went to work at Kendall-Jackson
learning about both small and big-time wine production of top quality. He then
turned his talents to the boutique Flowers Vineyard & Winery, where he was the
winemaker and general manager, launching one of the most successful small Pinot
labels to date. The winery he built at Flowers is still considered one of the
very best gravity-flow, gas-assist green wineries in the world.
Then he focused his talents upon the circa 1976, but now
all about new, DeLoach Vineyards.
DeLoach Vineyards Green Valley Pinot Noir, Sonoma 2005
Price $45
Rating 97
This cool in more ways than one valley is Pinot-perfect, having optimal weather.
Soils rich in minerals from an ancient seabed infuse the fruit with terroir. The
best of five vineyards was identified to create this quintessential Green Valley
Pinot Noir.
This velvet hammer of a red is complex, followed with earthy aromas and serious
spice. Flavors of pomegranate, bright red cherries, tart raspberry, leather, and
lingering floral grow from within the glass
Interestingly, open-top wood fermentors have been used in
France for centuries. Many California winemakers have traditionally abandoned
open-top fermentors in favor of stainless-steel tanks on the belief that they
would facilitate easy-to-control fermentations and predictable results. Greg
LaFollette, the DeLoach Vineyards winemaker, prefers to live dangerously: "I
don't practice safe winemaking," he says, choosing open-top fermentors and wild
yeasts for his impressive Pinot Noirs, "so [the wine] goes to the limit of what
it can be." DeLoach Vineyards crafts terroir-driven, delicious wines that are a
true expression of their vineyards, passion and history of top quality.
DeLoach Vineyards Estate Bottled Pinot Noir, Russian
River 2005
Price $20
Rating 93
Using traditional Burgundian tecniques, this Pinot Noir is rich in color and
flavor, presenting aromas of bright cherry and black berry complimented by hints
of savory spice. Flavors of dried cherry and cranberry meld with classic brown
spice flavors.
In 2004, DeLoach Vineyards purchased 15 French oak open-top
fermentors specifically for Pinot Noir production. As Russian River Valley
winemaking pioneers, DeLoach Vineyards is often the first in the area to employ
innovative winemaking techniques like the use of oak open-top fermentors. This
innovative step has helped catalyze a movement of winemakers across the region
that are employing traditional winemaking techniques like hand-punchdowns (pigage)
and gravity-flow systems.
DeLoach Vineyards OFS Pinot Noir, Russian River 2005
Price $38
Rating 95
Fruit sources include the Balletto Vineyards and Dijon clones, both of which are
located in cooler growing regions of Sonoma County. These cooler climates allow
the grapes to ripen over an extended season, developing wonderfully complex
flavors.
Following a rigorous fruit selection, the must is fermented in small French oak
vats utilizing native yeasts. The wine is then gently pressed off and aged in
French oak barrels, 25% new oak.
"From the glass, quintessential Russian River Valley Pinot Noir flavors caress
your senses;" boasts Greg LaFollette, the DeLoach Vineyards winemaker. "Aromas
of cherry, licorice and cookie dough spice meet in a delightful mélange. A full,
rich palate offers tempting red fruit flavors with late echoes of cherries and
lilac. A seductively layered wine with the texture of crushed velvet on your
tongue, those who can resist drinking it now will be well rewarded with the
beautiful nuances brought by age."
DeLoach Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River 2006
Price $14
Rating 94
The grapes were hand harvested, then the juice was fermented and aged in a
combination of 30% neutral French oak barrels and 70% stainless steel tanks.
After primary fermentation, about 25% of the wine underwent malolactic
fermentation, lending a unique creaminess.
"The 2006 Sauvignon Blanc offers a unique nose of ripe
tropical fruits, melded with fresh cut grass, ripe honeydew melon and crisp
lemon," explains Greg LaFollette, the DeLoach Vineyards winemaker. "The palate
explodes with acidic but ripe fruit and the lengthy finish of meyer lemon lasts
and lasts. This is a concentrated, balanced and refreshing white wine."
DeLoach Vineyards OFS Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River
2006
Price $22
Rating 96
The juice was fermented and aged in a combination of 30% neutral French oak
barrels and 70% stainless steel tanks. After primary fermentation, about 25% of
the wine underwent malolactic fermentation, lending a unique creaminess and full
mouthfeel to a classically lean wine. The juice was fermented and aged using a
combination of French oak barrels and stainless steel tanks. This vintage marks
their first release of a screw cap Sauvignon Blanc.
"This 2006 O.F.S. Sauvignon Blanc offers refreshing rich
tropical fruit layers and flavors of ripe pineapple, kiwi and guava," boasts
Greg LaFollette, the DeLoach Vineyards winemaker. "Aromas of fresh wild herb
and lime with hints of ginger and white pepper make this a lovely wine for food
pairing or to enjoy all by itself."
La Follette’s wines have been served at the White House at
several state events, including to 44 heads-of-state at the NATO 50th
Anniversary, and he has been asked by the State Department to represent the US
in goodwill efforts abroad to improve winemaking practices in other countries.
Greg Folette turned his attention to both vineyard and
winery consulting internationally. He designed/redesigned 14 wineries worldwide
with emphasis on “green” design. He is the consulting/designing winemaker for
the new UC Davis teaching winery; and is involved in projects on five
continents. These efforts have resulted in a “Wine of the Year” in Chile
(Decanter), and the #1 white wine and the #1 Pinot Noir (two years in a row) in
South Africa, as voted by each of those countries’ own vintners associations.
Watch, and drink, this fellow's work.
More information is at
www.deloachvineyards.com.
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Darryl Beeson teaches professional wine technique for
www.internationalsommelier.com
. He is American editor of
www.wineontheweb.com. |
