Discovering the Old Florida

by Sandra Scott

Ask anyone who has visited Apalachicola, Carrabelle, and St. George Island and they will say, “It is what Florida used to be like.” Franklin County, an hour’s drive south of Tallahassee on the Florida Panhandle, is eighty-seven percent national preserves, state forests and protected lands with virtually deserted pristine beaches, and something for everyone – fishing, kayaking, museums, shopping, golf, swimming, or doing absolutely nothing. It is the last vestige of Old Florida, a Florida that does not exist anywhere else – no high rise hotels, no traffic congestion making it the ideal place to relax, kick back, and do whatever tickles your fancy.

In the waters

Gourmands generally agree that Apalachicola oysters are the best in the world. They are plump with a mellow taste that should be enjoyed raw untainted by sauces. Oystering tours show visitors how commercial fishermen have been harvesting these delicacies for over 150 years plus they will learn how to tong, cull, and harvest oysters. They can even take home two bags. Or, enjoy bay, river, gulf or pier fishing for redfish, speckled trout, flounder, snapper, grouper, and king mackerel to mention a few of the fish waiting to be caught. For a different kind of water experience rent a kayak, or bring your own, to explore the Carrabelle River or investigate the sandy coves and salt marshes of St. George Island State Park. Or, take a relaxing tour of Apalachicola’s historical waterfront and estuary with Captain Larry of Wheelhouse Tours. Have your own boat? There are several marinas waiting to accommodate boaters.

Wildlife

Birds are everywhere but a hike in Tate’s Hell State Forrest, St. George Island State Park, or with birding expert Alan Knothe in the Apalachicola National Estuarine Reserve will tickle the feathers of all birders. The Apalachicola National Forest is home to blue-headed vireos, pelicans, egrets, herons and boasts the world’s largest population of red-cockaded woodpeckers. St. George Island State Park comprises nine miles of undeveloped shoreline, and features some of the state’s best shell hunting opportunities. Visit Cape St. George Isle with its diverse bird population especially during the spring and fall migrations. Expect to see peregrine falcons, bald eagles, oystercatchers and snowy plovers. The entire Franklin County is filled with wildlife including deer, bear, and other critters but the most amazing are the sea turtles.  From May to November the sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs as they have for over a thousand years. Viewers should be careful not to disturb the turtles. Most accommodations have information on how to protect the turtle. Keep house lights off in the evening as it confuses the turtles and don’t leave beach chairs on the beach overnight. As Bruce Drye explains in the seminars he offers to visitors, “Turtles operate by instinct.  They are not decision makers.”  Magnificent dunes, protected coves, salt marshes and long-leaf pine forests create an environment that encourages wildlife exploration.

Golfing and Shopping

Golfers will love St. James Bay golf course. It is an Audubon International “Certified Silver Signature Sanctuary” 18-hole, par 72 championship course with wetlands and water hazards present at every hole. Wildlife spectators include herons, egrets and even an occasional lazy alligator. St. James Bay “Stay and Play” packages include condos and villas for the dedicated golfer.

The charming historic communities of Carrabelle, St. George Island, and Apalachicola have art galleries, antique shops, and boutiques making shopping a joy. The beauty of the area has inspired artists including watercolorist Linda Clark featured at Sea Oat Art Gallery on St. George Island and photographer Richard Bickel’s whose insightful photographs featured in his Apalachicola studio depict local people at work.

It’s historic

Pick up a self-guided walking tour at the Apalachicola Chamber of Commerce or take an Olde Town Golf Cart Tour of Apalachicola from the Water Street Hotel. Visit the 1838 Greek-Revival Trinity Episcopal Church, which was shipped in sections from White Plains, NY by schooner and assembled with wooden pegs. Interestingly the 1838 antebellum Orman House, which is beautifully situated on a rise above the river was constructed in Salina, New York and shipped to Apalachicola. The recently renovated Dixie Theater was built in 1912 and is once again hosting live theater. At the John Gorrie State Museum learn about physician, John Gorrie, whose concern for his yellow fever patients motivated him to invent a method for cooling their rooms. He became a pioneer in the field of air conditioning and refrigeration by inventing an ice-making machine receiving the first U.S. Patent for mechanical refrigeration in 1851. A replica is on display at the museum, as well as exhibits chronicling the colorful history of Apalachicola. Over 900 historic homes and buildings are in Apalachicola’s National Historic District.

In Carrabelle climb the 112-year-old fully restored Crooked River Lighthouse and tour the recently opened replica of the Crooked River Lighthouse Keeper’s House. The historic St. George Light was reconstructed by a dedicated group of local citizens after the original succumbed to beach erosion.

The Camp Gordon Johnston World War II museum is dedicated to the 250,000 amphibious WW II soldiers and support groups who trained at the camp. Driving the amphibious “duck” was tricky and it was found that soldiers with no previous driving experience were the easiest to train. A video shows their intensive training, which included practicing for the D-Day landing.  Apalachicola’s Vietnam Memorial is the only city in the US, other than Washington DC, to feature a partial replica of the bronze sculpture of the three soldiers designed by Frederick Hart.

Sleeping and Eating

There are accommodations to suit every need from beach houses that accommodate entire extended families to comfy cottages for two to historic B&Bs. Fresh fish and Apalachicola oysters are part of every menu prepared at the area’s restaurants by CIA trained chefs. Franklin County may be the Old Florida but it comes with all the comfort and amenities of the modern world without destroying the ambiance.

For more information check www.anaturalescape.com and www.collinsvacationrentals.com for St. George Villa accommodations.

All images courtesy of Sandra and John Scott except the turtle image which is courtesy of Bruce Drye.