|
A Sacred Journey in ProvenceTracing the Steps of Mary MagdaleneBy Will SnyderThe religious traditions in Europe are alive and well, and Provence is a wonderful region to experience an ancient pilgrimage to the sites made famous by Mary Magdalene. Off the beaten track in the heart of Provence, about an hour north of Marseille or west of Nice, these shrines are in resplendent Provincial countryside and offer a chance to trace the steps of one of the most fascinating journeys of Christendom. In the Bible, Mary Magdalene is identified as a woman healed by Jesus. She then became a close follower of Jesus, a witness to his crucifixion, and one of the first to see and talk to Christ after his resurrection.
From there, Mary Magdalene and the others set about converting the local heathens. Eventually Maximin was installed as the bishop of Aix, and Mary Magdalene went to live alone in a cave for the last thirty years of her life. While this Provincial passage by Mary Magdalene is treated as a legend by some historians, there is no doubt of its veracity if you speak to the locals of the region. Mary Magdalene became the patron saint of Provence, and pilgrimages to St Maximin and the grotto at St Baume were among the most important in Europe until the French Revolution. A devoted following has arisen in recent times, though the grotto itself fell into disrepair and was only reopened last year after a five year closure for renovation. I was sceptical when I first heard about these sites, as the story of Mary Magdalene coming to France was never taught in catechism class. But the Artiste, my companion, had read a few books on the saint and assured me it would be very worthwhile. So when in the south of France recently we decided to take a short pilgrimage consisting of the town of St Maximin and the nearby grotto of St Baume, destinations I discovered to be of incredible spiritual interest. St Maximin is a charming and ancient town that was originally a Gallo-Roman site. Its fame owes much to the mystique of Mary Magdalene, as her relics were discovered here in 1280 in an old Roman-era crypt. The 14th Century Basilica of Mary Magdalene was built with the blessing of Pope Boniface VIII to hold those relics. The Basilica’s sacred crypt contains the sarcophagus of Mary Magdalene, and a bronze reliquary of angels holds her skull, while a crystal tube preserves a fragment of her skin known as the “noli me tangere.” “Touch me not” were the words Christ used to Mary Magdalene on the morning of his resurrection, as he gently laid his finger on the brow of the saint. The Tourist Office is just across a cobbled square from the Basilica, where you can find English brochures on the region and make hotel and restaurant reservations. The town is renowned for its preservation of medieval architecture; especially worth seeing are the well-preserved Jewish quarter and the Gothic town hall. For shoppers, there are stores specialized in carved wooden and ceramic miniatures (“santons”), especially for Christmas crib scenes –a local specialty. Just around the block from the Basilica is the Royal Convent, formerly a Dominican nunnery. Part of the convent including the cloisters is a museum and can be visited (where you will find a municipally operated wine shop with a broad selection of the excellent country wines of the region). The other part has been turned into a fine hotel with a gourmet restaurant, the Hotellerie du Couvent Royal.
The hotel has a beautiful stone chapel, and guests are welcome to join the nuns in group prayer five times per day. We attended the “Complies”, an evening prayer, before dinner. This hour-long session, a mixture of singing psalms, readings and silent prayer had the effect of totally clearing away thoughts of the outside world, and I felt like I had taken monastic orders. The hotel offers simple rooms with shared baths, and can currently accommodate 200 pilgrims and visitors. Most rooms have splendid views of the wild mountainous scenery. Rates are more than reasonable. We arrived in time for dinner shared at tables with other visitors. The cost per person for the room with dinner (wine included) and breakfast came to 25 euros ($22). That’s hard to beat anywhere in France! Dinner is at shared tables, and conversation at our table was very relaxed and friendly. There were many couples who had been to the grotto before, and had returned to seek inner peace and a weekend of tranquillity. The hotel also has a religious-oriented gift shop where postcards and statues of Mary Magdalene are available. Early the next morning, after a nourishing breakfast with fellow pilgrims, we were ready to tackle the hike up to the grotto. From the hotel, there are two paths. Yet even the supposedly easier path, called the Allee des Rois (King’s Way), is steep in parts but presents stunning views of the Provincial countryside. The sun was shining and the fields below were beautiful shades of yellow and brown.
There are many religious sites in France, from Lourdes to Lisieux, and many saints venerated in their local churches. St Baume and St Maximin present a unique treat, as they are devoted to a saint who was with Jesus during the time of his miracles, and assisted his death and resurrection. Beyond that, visiting these sites is a fascinating way to get acquainted with the mountainous countryside of Provence. Lodging:-Hotellerie de la Sainte Baume, 83640 Le Plan D’Aups- Sainte Baume, Tel : 33-442-045-484, Fax 33-442-625-556. -Hotellerie du Couvent Royal, 83470 St Maximim, Tel: 33-494-865-566, http://www.hotelfp-saintmaximim.com (also a first class restaurant). 68 rooms, rates from 75-130 euros. Wine:-Maison des Vins de Pays, 83470 St Maximim, Tel: 33-494-780-950 (offering large selection of wines from region at prices direct from producers) Santon shops:-Santons Eygazier, 398 route de Marseille, Tel: 33-494-594-554. -Santons Juste et Marie, 153 chemin du St Pilon, Tel : 33-494-598-485. Tourist Office : Tel : 33-494-598-459. Contact information :Will Snyder Images by Will Snyder |
|
TM
What then happened to Mary Magdalene is
the subject of a legend embedded deep in the folklore of Provence. She became a great disciple in Palestine, preaching, even
allegedly writing her own gospel. The local authorities had enough of her
evangelizing, and cast her off to sea with several other unwanted early
Christians, including Martha, her brother Lazarus and Maximim. The boat was
set to sea without sails and oars, so this was more of an execution than an
extradition. After many days driven by wind and currents in the
Mediterranean, they miraculously reached the shore of southern France, at a
place called Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer, a short distance from Aix-en-Provence.
The Grotto of St Baume is the cave
where Mary Magdalene is said to have stayed for the last 30 years of her
life. To get to the grotto requires a 20 minute car ride up winding roads in
the St Baume mountains, and then a 45 minute walk up a footpath. There is a modest hotel, actually a converted convent still
operated by the Benedictine nuns of the Sacred Heart, at the foot of the
paths leading up to the grotto. This hotel, called the Hotellerie de la
Sainte Baume, is where we decided to stay. I must say it felt strange to
check in with a nun behind the registration desk! It was a very friendly
exchange, no mention of credit cards or key to the mini-bar.
The grotto is quite large with an altar
for daily masses and numerous shrines to the saint. There are several large statues and a reliquary of bones attributed to the
repentant sinner. We arrived in time for mid-morning mass. As the service
began, an usher closed two huge oak doors and the grotto, without natural
light, took on a supernatural aura, lit by hundreds of candles around the
shrines. Drops of condensation added to the mysterious atmosphere of the
sacred site. 
We returned to our car, but there was
an country market in the field across the street where we bought apples.
Before leaving, we had a drink at the café adjacent to the hotel and
reflected on the two days visiting the shrines, and agreed we felt stronger,
more self-confident and ready to come again, perhaps on the feast day of
Mary Magdalene, July 22.