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Assisi Made EasyVisiting the Hilltown of St FrancisBy Will Snyder
The town is almost entirely devoted to St Francis and St Clare, whose lives were interwoven- like the fortunes of their religious orders- from the day they first met until his death fifteen years later. The stories tell us that the life of Francis was like no other, save that of Christ himself. Miracles, visions, battles on behalf of those afflicted with leprosy or possessed by the devil, famous encounters with birds and animals, challenges to authority and to the society in which he lived- all these are the legacies of St Francis. Beyond an exemplary life, he has left another living reminder –the Franciscan order of priests and monks who continue to serve God from most countries of the world. It is not necessary to share his faith in order to appreciate his soaring achievements, but experiencing this town as it exists, recalling his life and miracles, lends one to a belief in the potential goodness of man, in itself a truly sacred experience. Francis at the age of twenty-four abandoned his family inheritance to devote himself as a pauper to relieve the misery of all he could see in the world around him. The “only perfect Christian after Jesus,” Francis set an example of beauty- in the human heart, mind and soul, and in every element of the natural world.
The Artiste and I visited Assisi in late fall, which is a wonderful time to come if you can. Relatively few visitors, pleasant weather, nearly everything still open. We stayed in a quiet hotel –well, more of a solid local restaurant with seven bedrooms, called La Fortezza. I had seen a Karen Brown recommendation, based on a write-in, and was drawn to the mention of “the choice bedroom even has its own little terrace”. Well, I phoned and Appartamento 44 with the not so little stone terrace was available. I never regretted the choice. The room itself is modest, a bathroom with one of those showers without a basin, so the water just heads for a drain while filling the entire bathroom, not what you would call practical. The terrace was as large as the bedroom and looks out over a stone courtyard, and was perfect for breakfast, tea breaks and just enjoying peace and quiet. The hotel is located high on the hillside, near the Piazza del Commune (with a Roman temple and the town hall) and just below the Rocca Maggiore -a huge fortress that stands above the town at the apex of the hilltop. Terraces below are home to churches, convents, tall houses, civic buildings, various squares or piazza. We drove up to this Piazza, following local drivers. The Italian cars suddenly disappeared and we found ourselves behind a large group of barefoot white-caped pilgrims, singing and carrying crosses and statues. Suddenly we realized more pilgrims had joined from the rear and we were in the middle of a holy procession. At the next intersection, we were able to turn away, but the memory is vivid like a Fellini movie. There are shops everywhere in the town, stores lining squares, under arches, down narrow stone pathways. Yet it is subdued and in good taste, not overtly commercial, local crafts mixed with religious artefacts and souvenirs. Many of the stores have similar commodity objects –I saw rooster painted water pitchers in a number of stores. For the discerning shopper, there are quality upscale stationery, leather, ceramics and home decoration boutiques. The highlight of the visit was the tomb of St Francis which is accessible from the lower Basilica. I entered an office near the main entrance and inquired about daily activities, and a sweet lady showed me the schedule of masses organized by groups of visitors, in many different languages. There were at least two masses in English in front of the tomb in the crypt. Anyone is welcome to attend these very special services, and we took the opportunity to participate with a small group of visitors from Pennsylvania. Lovers of medieval architecture will be in paradise in Assisi. Everywhere you look you find another masterpiece. No McDonalds in sight, even the sandwich shops are stone with arches and pillars. I read a few guidebooks and the superlatives are flowing: “Nowhere in the entire artistic history of Italy, has location and genius of artists been expressed with the strength, invention and sense of renewal as in the Upper Basilica of Assisi.” And just so the Lower Basilica wouldn’t be offended, it “possesses the most extraordinary pictorial oeuvre of the Italian Middle Ages,” referring to the 28 huge frescos of Giotto and the stained glass by Bonino and the myriad of other artists who contributed to creating this sacred site that just leaves one dumbfounded the artwork is so powerful. We asked Lorenzo, the hotel owner’s son, for restaurant suggestions. He gave us three names of restaurants and showed us exactly where they were on a walkers’ map. We tried all three, two were good, one was truly exceptional: La Buca di San Francesco. The location in high arched cellar, the classy service, excellent Ubrian specialties, the wine (and a sommelier with an extensive but very reasonable wine list) and value for money were all superb. Assisi is sophisticated yet countrified. The locals are proud of their heritage and keepers of the legacy of St Francis and St Clare. While undisputably a popular tourist attraction, it is also a destination for personal enlightenment and introspection. Hotel: La Fortrezza, a short walk up a stone path from Piazza del Commune, rooms 50-58 euros, restaurant closed Thursdays, Tel: 39 075 81 98 035, www.lafortezzahotel.com Restaurant: La Buca di San Francesco, Via Brizi 1, Assisi. Tel :39 075 81 22 04. There are numerous hotel and restaurant options in all price categories in Assisi and surrounding areas. One good source is the Italian Tourist Web Guide: www.itwg.com Contact information :Will Snyder Images by Will Snyder |
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Assisi is a gem of a holiday
destination- a fortified hilltown built in the rolling landscape that is
Umbria. About a two hour drive from either Florence or Rome, the site
appears like a Shangri-la of medieval stone visible for many kilometers.
Since the earthquake of 1997 that collapsed sections of the great dome of
the Basilica and wreaked havoc on many monumental buildings in the town, the
magnificent restoration work is now finished and all sites are reopened to
the public. 
Francis is probably most widely known
for his sermon to the birds, but his life was so much more that shortly
after his death cardinals and the Pope got together and decided to build the
amazing Basilica in his honor. It is of course exactly what he would not
have wanted, all the expense and opulence contrasting with his own
renunciation of earthly pleasures and his vow of poverty. And yet these
earthly monuments give tourists and pilgrims the opportunity to reflect on
the life of Francis in a setting of incomparable beauty.