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Enjoying the “Warm Side of the Rockies”

Fairmont Hot Springs, B.C.

By Chris Millikan

A thriving resort destination nestled between the lofty grandeur of the B.C. Rocky Mountains to the east and the less imposing Purcell Mountains to the west, Fairmont was the first community established on the mighty Columbia River that flows 120 miles to the Pacific Ocean. Since the mid-1800’s, Fairmont Hot Springs has been an attractive destination.  In those early days, it offered a soothing break for people traveling between Fort Steele and Golden.  Even at that time, the therapeutic value of the hot mineral waters was well-known and rustic operations catered to their needs.  These days, however, Fairmont Hot Springs has become a four season get away for a great range of interests.

Although rustic camping and picnic sites border the Columbia River and cluster on the hill above the famed hot springs, attractive, very comfortable accommodations have also developed. Exchanging our Hawaiian time-share last year for a week at Fairmont Vacation Villas resulted in an unforgettable holiday!  In October we returned to further luxuriate in those Five Star Villas and enjoy more of the “warm side of the Rockies”.              

Pristine beauty, fresh clear air, pure water, wildlife and the lure of natural mineral hot springs make Fairmont Hot Springs a popular destination. This region of the Columbia Valley gained serious attention in the 1950’s and development began about 1957 with the visionary Wilder brothers.  As a result of their efforts and foresight, the area provides an endless array of activities and year-round choices for vacationers from all over the world.   A great many visitors spend time on the numerous lush, golf courses, but our interests centered on hiking, cycling and soaking in the hot mineral spas.

Over one million gallons of mineral hot springs water yearly bubbles from rocky vents, varying in temperature from 96 to 118 degrees Fahrenheit. Alleviating aches of stress and strains, guests enjoy developed hot spring pools 365 days per year.   As we sloshed about the hottest pool, adjacent pools allowed Tots to frolic in lukewarm shallows and the daring to high dive and swim laps.                         

Six developed mountainside trails fan upward from the resort.  Traipsing around the picturesque and historic baths is a family tradition, but this autumn we opted for a more ambitious hike offered at the Villa, beginning at the ski lodge.  After meeting a herd of mountain sheep, our guide rallied us along a cross-country ski trail loop.   Surrounded by dazzling fall yellows, oranges and reds, we gained shimmering panoramas of the Columbia Valley below. 

Villa recreation activities included an interpretive hike to the top of the Hoodoos. We were similarly inspired to join a group for this 6-mile round-trip to explore the huge natural monuments.  Sculpted by wind and water into fantastic towers and pinnacles, Hoodoos are famous to this region and beyond. The sandstone cliffs tower many meters above highway 95 at the north end of Columbia Lake. A moderate uphill path led us toward breathtaking views of the lake and river below.  As well as discussing the geological theory, guides retold the Ktunaxa (Too-na-ka) legend explaining this amazing land formation. According to native lore, the skeleton of a huge ancient fish formed the Hoodoos. 

The year before we had explored the Spirit Trail, noted for native petroglyphs. Achieving splendid views of the wetlands, the narrow shaded Trail proceeds along the shores of Columbia Lake and into Columbia Lake Provincial Park. 

Sunny cycling adventures often filled our days. Although Fairmont Vacation Villas provided bicycles and offered a Kokanee Salmon Bike Tour, we saw thousands of these vivid red spawners from our own bikes during a series of cycle trips.   We investigated Dutch Creek, swooped down to the shores of Columbia Lake and went off-road into the forest looking for wildlife and birds.  On the day that we cycled to Invermere, however, we experienced an extraordinary encounter.

Riding along a good secondary road, we immersed ourselves once again in the landscape. Craggy mountain peaks, bird songs, sparkling mountain air and roadside wildflowers surrounded us.  The rolling hills were manageable, the sun was shining and our destination was a mere twenty miles into the distance.  All went smoothly until my hubby had a flat tire.

We stopped in a meadow where deer had been before.  As the repair wrapped up, a herd of little ponies materialized.  At first they were alert and cautious, looking at us, sniffing the air and glancing shyly our way.  We sat so still, watching them back.  Gradually, they approached us and began to drift around us. So curious they were; so gentle in their milling around us!!! Surrounding us, pushing each other gently, they crowded around our bikes and us. They sniffed all parts of our bodies, licked our legs, looked into the handlebar packs, all the while flicking their long blond tails.  It was a magical moment suspended in the sunny meadow.  After we slowly continued on our way we looked back to find that the ponies had melted into the pine forest.

Cycling onward to Invermere, the encounter with the ponies replayed itself many times.   Arriving at the lovely town built along the shore of Lake Windermere, we lunched at the Huckleberry Inn.  In the telling of our encounter with the herd of ponies, we relived a mystical experience. 

We had enjoyed a wondrous holiday at Fairmont Hot Springs. Every day over flowed with extraordinary activities and adventures.  The unexpected meeting of the little ponies in the meadow, however, epitomized our unique experiences in the beautiful B.C. Rocky Mountains.

If you go:

Fairmont Villas Hillside & Riverside
1-250-345-6241
www.fairmontvillas.com

Fairmont Hot Springs Resort & Pools
1-800-663-4979
www.fairmonthotsprings.com

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