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Exploring the Galapagos ArchipelagoOn Board The Explorer IIBy Valerie Summers
Each morning Explorer II voyagers set out for land and were tendered over to one of the land masses constituting the thirteen large islands, six smaller islands and over 40 islets of the Galapagos islands. This National Park is considered one of the most pristine in the world and has fascinated scientists and explorers throughout time. An enormous diversity of both plant and animal life are encompassed within these islands located in one of the most active volcanic regions on earth. It was here that Charles Darwin first unlocked the key to evolution where, in the process of Natural Selection, propagation becomes change and species diverge one from another. On February 12 , 1832, the Galapagos became part of Ecuador and in 1930, Ecuador created Galapagos National Park. Nearly 30 years later, the Ecuadorian government proclaimed the Galapagos Islands a protected area and in 1978, UNESCO declared it a Natural Heritage Site.
Returning to our Zodiac, we encountered an unexpected sight, as we motored around the large island, where two tiny penguins standing on a rock appeared to be in conversation. Then heading to Puerto Villamil, we disembarked and climbed into the back of a truck, native style transport, and were driven down the dusty roads into the town. At the beachfront Route Cafe, we enjoyed a delicious fresh fish lunch, preceded by homemade soup and a bowl of the ubiquitous popcorn, which Ecuadorians use like croutons.
Back on the ship, each day, an on-board lecture was offered about the islands, their history and wildlife. We learned that the islands are still recovering from centuries of abuse when buccaneers first introduced goats and killed tortoises for food. Once settlers came to the islands they brought with them a full complement of domestic animals, some of which went wild and began feral populations. Some still exist, continuing to kill off indigenous species. The history of the now tranquil islands also included a barbarous penal colony. And today, oil spills, whaling, collection of lichen for dyes, the sea cucumber delicacy and illegal fishing still pose a threat. No story on the Galapagos would be complete without mention of Lonesome George, the 70-80 year old tortoise, the last of his species, found on Pinta Island by National Galapagos Park Service wardens in 1971. He now lives in protective custody at the Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz Island and unfortunately seems to have no interest in mating. For information:American Airlines, with all that extra leg room,
provided the first and most comfortable leg of my journey to The Galapagos
via Miami to Guayaquil, Ecuador. Canodros, a private organization dedicated to the development of sustainable tourism ventures in areas of natural and cultural interest. Urbanization Santa Leonor Grand Hotel Guayaquil, where the locals stay. Clean,
safe, charming and conveniently situated just off the main commercial
street, with comfortable rooms, helpful, friendly English speaking staff,
two restaurants, bar, sporting complex and exotic pool area. Toppsa (Travel Opportunities South America),
specialists in last minute travel for Galapagos cruises, jungle tours,
adventure programs. |
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TM
The 600 mile
flight from Guayaquil, Ecuador, ended at my eagerly anticipated destination
on the island of San Cristobel in the Galapagos archipelago. Situated just a
few miles from the equator, the weather, as expected, was hot in this
sub-tropical ecological sanctuary. I was quickly ushered to an awaiting
motorized Zodiac raft and ferried to the luxurious, 100 passenger Explorer
II. Boarding, I heard an international cacophony of voices in Spanish,
Flemish, German, Italian, British and American. The worldwide adventurers
were all first time visitors to this part of the globe. Just as the ship got
underway, we were escorted by a pod of dolphins, merrily cavorting alongside
as if to welcome us. I made my way to my stateroom which was indeed just
that, not a tiny box of a cabin offering just the basics as I have
experienced on other cruise ships. This featured a queen sized bed,
handsome decor, plenty of closet space, mini bar, TV, marble bathroom and a
large window where I could enjoy both my privacy and the scenery. In
addition to offering comfort and luxury, the ship’s policy was strictly
environmentally protective.
Unlike most cruise
passengers, these on the Explorer II were an active lot, eager to explore
the area. We were divided into groups and mine, the Dolphins, included
three congenial couples from the UK and one from the Chicago area. We
hiked, swam and snorkeled together while marveling at the wildlife
surrounding us. Our Galapagos-born guide accompanied us throughout our
exploration of the islands leading the way into unknown territories.
Several of our fellow explorers took to the deep in their scuba gear and
raved about the beauty of the world below. On our first morning excursion,
we motored around Bartholomew Island, admiring the rock formations,
including the famous Pinnacle Rock, once used for target practice by the US
Navy during World War II, then crawled out of the raft and onto the tiny,
stark island. The 114 meter climb up a railed wooden staircase ended at the
island’s highest point offering a spectacular view of the surrounding area.
Typically, we returned to the ship
around noon, avoiding the most intensely hot hours of the day, to enjoy a
buffet lunch served on the outdoor deck, then prepared for our next outing.
We visited Santiago Island which seemed a million miles away from
Bartholomew with its huge wildlife population of birds, sea lions and marine
iguanas blending into the volcanic rock. I imagined puffing these
prehistoric creatures up to a colossal size and witnessing the return of the
dinosaur. It was clear that the animals knew they were safe from humans as
they showed no fear and usually did not move away when we approached within
inches. The weather was as variable as the island’s wildlife and
topography, with vegetation changing from lush landscape to desert,
sometimes bathed in bright sunlight, other times cloaked in mist with bursts
of sudden rain. 
We spotted a white tipped shark and five golden rays silently resting in a
canal while bright flame colored Sally light-foot crabs scooted along the
rocks. Several of the famous huge Galapagos giant tortoises, for whom the
archipelago is named, lounged on the beaches, and we caught glimpses of a
half dozen Sea Turtles cavorting in the ocean. On Isabella island, we
trudged along a challenging volcanic path, eventually passing two huge gray
brain corals. Further along, we ventured across several land iguanas, vastly
different from their marine cousins, larger, golden brown in color and
seemingly anti-social. My British pals, all “Audobonly” inclined and known
in the UK as “twitchers” were all very enthused about the bird life. They
gleefully spotted flightless cormorants who cannot fly but swim quite well;
magnificent frigatebirds, looking like prehistoric pterodactyls in flight;
dive bombing blue-footed boobies; brown pelicans swallowing whole fish down
their elastic throats; adorable red-breasted Galapagos doves while listening
to the lilting melodies of the mockingbird. And there were finches galore…13
species..the island’s best example of evolution. One scortchingly hot
afternoon, we rested under a shady tree next to a peaceful lagoon to view a
flock of pink flamingos.
We explored mangrove swamps, ebony black volcanic paths and lava
tubes, passed huge stands of lava cactus and candelabra cactus, and
sometimes crawled on our hands and knees under forbidding huge stickery
bushes so as to stay on the designated path and according to Galapagos
National Park rules, not disturb any plant, rock or animal.
One of the highlights of the
visit for my group was a spontaneous leap into the sea from the raft when we
spotted a group of young sea lions cavorting nearby. They seemed totally
comfortable continuing their romp amidst the two-legged visitors, darting in
and around us.