Maine CharmBy Carole Kotkin
Located on the western shore of Penobscot Bay, this classic New England County’s principal attraction is the sea and sky, mountain vistas and a landscape that includes farmland where blueberries, cranberries and apples grow. At the heart of each village is its harbor. Many of the houses are situated so that they look down upon the small wharves that extend out onto the water, each one piled with the items required by the trade of lobster fishing—coils of rope, bait bags, netting, floats, and traps. Lobster is served in almost every restaurant and in every conceivable fashion. Besides the traditional steamed lobster dinner and lobster roll, menus feature lobster Newburg, lobster stew, deep fried lobster and lobster pizza. Even McDonald’s in downtown Freeport, a short drive from Waldo County, serves lobster sandwiches. Much more than most rural areas, coastal Maine has an active cultural life, with resident artists, writers, and galleries, and the excellent Penobscot Marine Museum right in downtown Searsport. Much of the charm of Belfast, the county seat, and its neighbor Searsport, comes from its long history as a merchant port and shipbuilding center. The same craftsmanship that went into building ships gave the towns’ Main Street some of the finest examples of high Victorian architecture found anywhere. Whether your trip is to be an active skiing and snowmobiling holiday in nearby Camden, or a leisurely getaway to sightsee and browse in the many antique and artisan craft shops, or a serious shopping spree in the outlet shops of Freeport, you might plan overnight stops to hopscotch from one enticing inn to another.
A weeklong stay or weekend getaway, whatever time you spend in coastal Maine is rarely enough for all there is to see, do and eat, but it is certainly enough to sharpen your appetite for the next visit. Where to StayBelfast:
Built in 1840, it is one of several Greek revival homes here. The inn has four working fireplaces, imported marble mantels, seven guestrooms; full breakfast.
Londonderry Inn, 877-529-9566, info@londonderry-inn.com The original farmhouse, the first bed and breakfast in Belfast, was restored in 1997; full farm-style breakfast is included. Mad Captains House, 866-338-2343; madcaptainshouse@adelphia.net
Searsport:1794 Watchtide by the Sea, Searsport, 10800-698-6575, stay@watchtide.com Yankee Magazine’s Editor’s Choice this inn is on the National Register of Historic Places; delicious breakfasts served on the sunporch overlooking Penobscot Bay. Wildflower Inn, 888-546-2112, wildflowerinn@adelphia.net This 1846 inn with views of Penobscot Bay, has been restored to its original beauty. Guest rooms appointed with antique furnishings and feather beds. Freeport:
Opened in 1984 as a bed and breakfast, this luxury inn encompasses two period (1798 and 1850) buildings together with its modern additions (1989 and 1997). Just five minutes from the L.L. Bean outlet, it is rated number 30 for food on Conde Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Poll of USA Resorts. The Sunday brunch is not to be missed. Special packages, including, State of Mainer, Perfect Gift, Honeymoon, Steal Away and Serious Shopper. Where to EatHaraseeket Inn, Freeport, 800-342-6423 (either the Maine Dining Room or the more informal Broad Arrow) Lobster Pound, Lincolnville Beach, 207-789-5550 Maine Chowder House & Steak House, Belfast, 207-338-5225 Mistral Mediterranean Restaurant at Belfast Bay Meadows Inn, 800-335-2377, bbmi@baymeadowsinn.com Three Tides, Belfast, 207-338-1707, sarah@3tides.com Weathervane Restaurant, Belfast, 207-338-1774, 800-914-1774 (for lobster shipping) Things to Do
Bryant’s Stove & Music Museum, Thorndike Fort Knox State Historic Site, Stockton Springs, 207-469-7719 Belfast Kayak Tours, Freedom, 207-382-6204, hschiller@pocketmail.com Belfast Bay Cruises, Belfast, 207-338-1063, belfastbaycruises@prexar.com Friendship Sloop Amity, Belfast, 207-548-6105, amity@midcoast.com Bluejacket Shipcrafters (models), Searsport, 800-448-5567, info@bluejacket.com For more detailed information contact Waldo County Maine, 800-870-9934; info@waldocountymaine.com; www.waldocountymaine.com. |
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Late fall and winter in Coastal Maine evoke scenes right out of Currier and Ives lithographs or Grandma Moses paintings. It’s easy to imagine settling into a comfortable chair in front of a roaring fire at a country inn. In fact, if anything epitomizes a visit to Maine, it is the inn, the essence of coziness and hospitality. The rich maritime heritage of the region comes to life in the 19th century architecture of the bed and breakfasts that were once the mansions of sea captains. Located in the middle of coastal Maine between the tourist cities of Bar Harbor and Camden are the 25 small towns that make up Waldo County. 
With its mix of traditional elements—wood-burning fireplaces in the public rooms and in some bedrooms—and modern luxuries like whirlpool baths in some rooms, it’s hard to beat the Harraseeket Inn in Freeport. The Inn is known far beyond Maine for its fine cuisine. Chef Theda Lyden in the Maine Dining Room uses locally grown organic produce, seafood, and game in dishes like New Leaf Farms field lettuces with marinated duck, pan roasted Maine lobster, organic Maine chicken, and all natural Chateaubriand. 
The Alden House, 877-337-8151, 
Belfast Bay Meadows Inn, 800-335-2377, 
This Victorian house, the original home of Captain Edwin Horace Herriman, circa 1870, is nestled in a residential neighborhood of Belfast’s historic district. Full breakfast included. 
Harraseeket Inn, 800-342-6423, 
Penobscot Marine Museum, Searsport 207-548-2529