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Round and Round We Go

Need to relieve - Head for one of America’s great canals.

By Lynne Hoy

The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, which runs 184.5 miles from Washington, D.C. to Cumberland, Maryland along the scenic Potomac River, can help you achieve that goal. Although we chose the two-wheeled method, you can take to foot or even horseback. You can go one mile or the entire length.

Recently I was presented with a challenge that only a mother could fathom. My son, Eric had received a sabbatical from his highly technical “means of support” and wished to prepare “mentally” before starting out on a trip through Europe and Asia. Mentally, to him, meant leaving the pressures of Washington, D.C. behind and hitting the Canal for a few days to prepare for the future. Mother was asked to go along. I guess his friends must have all been too sane or too busy!

Father, at first had his feelings hurt that he was not also asked to accompany us. But this was to be a Mother-Son bonding experience where two people who had not lived in the same house for over 17 years could reconnect. Dad was to be our support system, providing transportation for bikes, backpacks and riders to Cumberland as we planned to do the trail from west to east, pickup in Georgetown, and rescue if our challenge would fail. He also provided a hearty breakfast with plenty of calories before we hit the trail.

I’m beginning to think he is the lucky one! Our plan: five days with an average of 37 miles per day.

Built between 1828 and 1850, the C&O Canal, was intended for the transporting of goods to and from the West. The towpath is basically level and maintained by the National Park Service. Along its length you will cross aqueducts and locks, and pass through the mile long Paw Paw Tunnel. Deer, turtles, rabbits, chipmunks, and birds are found in abundance. Gatekeeper cottages, mills and even a cemetery provide cozy spots when you can rest your weary bones and clear the cobwebs of your mind.

Day 1--We started our journey with a “short” ride to warm up those leg muscles. Leaving Cumberland a little after noon we set out with cell phone, some first aid supplies, crackers, fruit, water, a bike repair kits and a change of clothing split between two backpacks. Our goal, Paw Paw, West Virginia, was 26 miles ahead.

Father had shown us how to change a flat the night before. NEITHER of us paid any attention! Less than an hour out, my front tire went flat with a “thump”. We looked at each other and wondered. I though, “Well, he’s the man.” And he thought, “She’s older and hopefully paid better attention.” We were both WRONG in our assumptions and it took us over an hour—finally lowering ourselves to reading the directions on the spare tube box—to get back on the road. Did we wish we had listened better? Probably not, as we both learn best by trial and error…..in this case, mostly error. And we did manage to share of few laughs over our dilemma.

Just over the Maryland state line on the banks of the Potomac River is Paw Paw. Tired and sore we found our lodgings in the Red Rooster Hostel, complete with hot tub that we both needed. We were the only guests and our room was adequate. But by that time, I could have slept anywhere. Dinner was a huge deli sandwich and a diet soda secured at the local “grocery” where we could sit on a bench and watch the community pass by at a leisurely pace. Already, I felt relaxed.

Day 2--Back to the Canal, only to be stopped within 50 yards of our Hostel by the local police who took great joy in telling us about the weather forecast and delighting in the fact that we WERE going to get WET. And wet we got. Rain. Rain. Rain. But, keep thinking, “It’s only water”.

My main concern loomed ahead, the challenge of the mile long Paw Paw Tunnel. You walk your bike along the Canal through the tunnel. There is a railing, for safety, between you and the water; but it is DARK and water is constantly dripping on your head. I could only imagine WHAT might be out there and kept my eyes firmly on Eric’s back, never focusing to the side, as he led the way. This was my worse fear and I was elated when we emerged from the Tunnel. I now knew that I could conquer those miles ahead!

The police were right. RAIN it did; but we kept pedaling right along. Our goal for the morning was a breakfast break, just off the path at Milepost 43, Bill’s Orleans Grocery. Bill, however, had decided he had better things to do and the sign on the locked door read “Gone Fishin”. Somebody once told me that the fishing was better in the rain, so I guess it must be true. Breakfast, “the carrot at the end of my stick”, became a soda and candy bar from the machine outside the door. Pedaling on, we ran with the rain and kept only one step, or rather rotation of the wheels, ahead of the thunder. Our goal for the day had been to stay in Hancock, Maryland that evening, 34 miles from Paw Paw. Hancock now became our refueling stop with a delightful hot lunch of homemade soup, hamburgers and bakery treats, which we wolfed down, at Weaver’s Restaurant. It was early afternoon and the rain was still with us. 

Decisions had to be made: Stay the night or push on? Push on seemed to win as the forecast didn’t seem to be better for the next day. We continued to Williamsport, Maryland and Milepost 99. Fifty nine miles, not bad for an out-of-shape senior citizen! Of course, before checking into a motel room for the night we needed to ask directions to the local self-service car wash where we proceeded take turns spraying both bikes and bodies. Showers, dinner, clean beds and chocolate milkshakes at the end of the day made the ride worthwhile.

Day 3--We are beginning to get the hang of this! Just keep on pedaling while we talk and enjoy the scenery. It’s an easy ride today. No rain, cool weather and only about 51 miles with a stop in Shepherdstown, West Virginia for lunch. Past historic Harper’s Ferry, West Virginia we zoomed and on to Point of Rocks, Maryland where we were met by Father. Tonight it will be “home” for dinner and a night’s rest in our own beds. The worse part of the day: The climb from the Canal up to the highway and across the bridge into Shepherdstown for lunch. The best part: KNOWING that we’re going to make it. We have one hundred and thirty six miles under our tires. Now it’s literally all downhill.

Day 4--This is a piece of piece cake, one day ahead of schedule, forty eight miles to downtown Georgetown and Milepost Zero. Can’t wait to sign in at the U.S. Park Service headquarters and add my name to the list of people who have COMPLETED the 184.5 mile trail. I’m even going to put down my age! Then it’s off to Eric’s apartment for a shower before a celebratory dinner, complete with wine (not near as fulfilling as that milkshake), in the trendy Adams Morgan district of Washington, D.C.

A trip that is not for everyone, but satisfied our goals of reconnecting and clearing one’s mind of work related issues. Life is a challenge and sometimes you need to push yourself to see what you can do and where the future is going. We talked and laughed about things old and new. We stopped along the way to observe the antics of the animals, the slow progress of the Potomac and history in the making. We saw few people, focused on the day at hand, made jokes about our saneness, and reflected on what we wished to accomplish. Were we tired? You bet. Sore? No doubt about it. Would we do it again? Maybe. We might even try for three days and let Father come along. (Never know when you’re going to get another flat tire and he’s the expert.)

With little to no training, but a firm desire to complete the trail, you, too, can leave your worries behind and journey back to quieter days. It is guaranteed that you will come away with a sense of self satisfaction.

Happy biking.

Warning—Plan ahead if your want to do the entire path at one time. Water and port-a-potties are available a reasonable distances. However, unless you are a camper, food and lodging facilities are limited. Always wear a helmet and be prepared to change a tire or attend to small medical mishaps. Carry a cell phone; although service may be sporadic.

Lodgings and Restaurants

Paw Paw, W.Va.--Red Rooster Hostel was very adequate and only $18 per person. Owner will arrange pickup for groups of four or more and take them to either end of the trail thus avoiding the necessity of having a car in the “wrong” place at the end of the ride. (www.redroosterhostel.com, 304-947-7591) 

Williamsport, Md.--Red Roof Inn (301-582-3500), located on a hill about a mile from the Canal. It is near the car wash and they will provide you with a first floor room so you can take your bike inside.

Weaver’s Restaurant--on the main street in downtown Hancock, Md. Delicious homemade soups and bakery products are a specialty.

Side Trips:

Stop and spend some time at each of the locks, aqueducts and buildings. Learn the history of the Canal and be amazed by the engineering skills that were necessary in its design. The Park Service has provided excellent exhibits along the way at Cumberland, Williamsport, Great Falls, and Georgetown. Take time to observe and reflect on the antics of the animals.

Off the beaten path, but close enough to visit: Antietam Battlefield, Md., Shepherdstown, W.Va., Harper’s Ferry, W. Va., Hancock, Md. and Cumberland, Md. All can provide a view back in time and demonstrate their personal transition into today’s world.

For more information: National Park Service @ www.nps.gov/choh/ and, a necessity, “The C & O Companion” by Mike High (ISBN 0-8018-6602-2) which gives a mile by mile description of what you are seeing and includes facilities along the trail. This should be called the “Bible of the Trail”.

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