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Our wine guide in Paris

By Anne Garber

Michel Moulherat leads an enviable life: He runs a wine store in a quiet Paris neighbourhood (in the 11th arrondisement), snuggled in near clothing manufacturers on a clean and narrow street. His shop looks like more of a trendy art gallery than what North Americans might consider a typical wine outlet, and his wines are something to be proud of, indeed. In his so-called spare time, Michel gets out to the vineyards in the heart of France, to get his hands dirty and sniff the wind, sniff the soil and sniff the trendaces that will dictate where the best wines are being decanted.

We sought out Michel Moulherat's advice on which of his wines might best accompany a petit goût of chêvre wrapped in lardu (also known as a small snack of goat cheese wrapped in thin bacon). We bought the Val de Loire - Richelieu from Domaine de la Garreliére, a cabernet franc -- a steal at only 7 euros. You can see it indicated in the photo at the bottom of this page, of Michel in his shop.

Good advice is hard to come by, and impartial, accurate advice even harder. We were delighted to find that Michel's recommendation was our perfect choice. He was also enthusiastic and knowledgeable about his chosen specialty, but without the smugness or snobbery we so often encounter from local North American "wine experts."

Michel -- when he's not off lecturing, scouting new wines or on buying trips, is our "insider source" for everything about wine and food. His selections for us were always spot-on (and remarkably affordable), and we have added him into our "Serious Contacts" for Paris.  

We plan to return to Michel Moulherat's shop, La Cave de l'Insolite, for wine-and-advice for every day during the remainder of our trip. Moulherat -- who learned his English in England -- speaks a very clear (though French-and British-accented) version of our language, including a friendly "Cheers!" as we departed his shop. You will find La Cave de l'Insolite ("The Cellar of the unusual one, eccentric") at 50 rue de la Folie Méricourt, 75011 Paris (tel/fax: 01 53 36 08 33).

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