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Freiburg CantonA Medieval TreasureBy Caroline M. Jackson
Feeling rather saturated with all this rich culture, it
was time to have a lunch break and where best to go but to one of the oldest
buildings in Rue de Zaehringen.
http://www.pays-de-fribourg.ch Where we stayed: Gruyeres: Hostellerie des Chevaliers http://www.gruyeres-hotels.ch/chevaliers - ask for a room overlooking the valley. Where we ate in Freiburg: Contact information: All images by Hamish M. Jackson Email:
crestlyn@axionet.com |
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TM
As the intercity train zipped between Zurich and
Geneva, I caught a glimpse of the medieval town of Freiburg nestled in a
deep wooded valley spanned by an enormous bridge. At that moment I resolved
my next Swiss itinerary would include this historic town. A year later, I
was not to be disappointed.
On arrival at the tourist office which is near the
train station, I discovered that the city of Freiburg is capital of the
canton of the same name and sits on the border between Switzerland’s French
and German-speaking regions. After studying my free map, I decided this
historic town begged to be visited a pied. As I strolled down the
steep cobbled streets I walked deeper into history spanning nearly one
thousand years. Winding narrow streets lined with Gothic houses opened up
onto squares boasting Medieval fountains. Religion is deeply woven into
Freiburg’s history with representation from the Franciscan, Capuchin and
Jesuit Catholic Orders. Top of my list was the Franciscan Church with its
wooden triptych and the Cathedral of St. Nicholas with a spectacular view
from its 74m high tower.
Like a protective ribbon, the Sarine River enfolds
Freiburg’s medieval Old Town which is located on a forested peninsula. The
river also creates a linguistic divide with most inhabitants on the west
bank speaking French and across the river on the east bank, German. It was
therefore no surprise to learn that the town boasts a well-known bilingual
university. Many street signs are in both French and German and the
friendly locals slipped quickly from speaking one language to the other
without missing a heartbeat. One distinguished gentleman on hearing our
Canadian accents, invited my husband and I into his home to see his million
dollar view. As soon as the heavy wood door closed behind us, I felt as
though we had walked into a time warp. A narrow arched hallway led into a
library which opened onto a private terrace. The view from this precipitous
lookout was indeed spectacular.
Later, while walking alongside the meandering Sarine
River, six bridges afforded stunning views and perfect subjects for
picture taking. My favorite was the Bern Bridge, a covered bridge made of
wood and the expansive Zaehringen span bridge which I had originally spotted
from the train on my previous trip.
The restaurant was so busy at street level
that I was escorted upstairs to a quieter table next to a window. Over
lunch I was able to spread out my map. With steep winding streets and a dose
of Trans-Atlantic jetlag, I had lost my bearings. The map showed a
funicular which would transport me from the medieval part of town up to the
more modern upper part of the city. Inaugurated in 1899, this fascinating
little cable railway runs on water, with the two green cars counterbalancing
each other in ascending and descending movements. Later, despite the strange
odor from the water cylinder, my knees thanked me for the ride up the steep
incline. 
No one should visit the canton of Freiburg without a
trip to the charming Medieval city of Gruyeres a short jaunt to the south.
In bygone days, Gruyeres belonged to the counts and its heraldic
representation of the crane (in French grue), inspired the name
Gruyeres. Enclosed by 12thcentury ramparts, its fairytale castle is picture
postcard perfect. The pedestrian-only village does not deter the hundreds of
tourists from parking below and pouring into the village above. We sallied
along the cobbled street then visited the fortified castle to admire its
treasures and Flemish tapestries. By dinner time, the tourists had
vanished so we practically had the town to ourselves. That evening we stayed
in an atmospheric hotel a few minutes walk from Gruyeres.
Just a ten-minute walk downhill from Gruyeres, in
Prigny, is a demonstration cheese dairy where the master cheese-maker daily
produces up to 48 wheels of tangy yellow Gruyere cheese. Every ten days,
each 35 kg round is turned over and brushed with a mixture of water and
salt. Upon arrival, I was given a head set which enlightened me on the
intricacies of cheese making and everything I didn’t know about cows. For
example, a cow daily drinks 85L of water, 25L of milk and eats 100 kilos of
fresh grass. From now on, I will not complain about the cost of cheese. 
With the clouds clearing from the mountain tops, we
decided to work off all the cheese sampling by taking a hike in the
surrounding Pre-Alp countryside. The area is a paradise for hikers with its
well-marked trails zigzagging through rolling mountains, forests, vineyards
and skirting ribbon lakes. On one such sojourn, we stopped to have a bite to
eat at an Alp Hut called ‘Chez Budgi’. The meal consisted of home cured ham,
potatoes
covered in double cream and the most delicious Gruyere cheese
fondue. We were the only foreigners in the restaurant and I don’t think the
owner had ever seen a credit card. To mark our departure, our host dashed
out to his balcony and rang all the cowbells above his door. We positively
waddled down the hill and resolved to eat nothing but salads for the next
week.