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Kuala LumpurA Modern City Filled with Old World CharmBy Chris Millikan
During the late 1800’s, prospectors discovered tin where the Klang and Gomak rivers converge. In sun-drenched reflections from modern glass towers and steel high rises at the renowned river fork, we could easily imagine early wood and thatch shanties sprawling in the boisterous frontier boom town. Eventually, brick and tile buildings, strategic location and railroad access guaranteed the city’s growth and permanence. Along the celebrated riverbank, Masjid Jamek (1909) snuggles into shady palm groves. Although the newer National Mosque with its contemporary umbrella-like roof is much bigger, this delightfully picturesque Mosque continues to serve devotees. Layers of cream and pink brick support Arabic-style onion domes high atop shining marble prayer-hall floors; red and white turreted minarets balance graceful cupolas. We wandered the shaded pathways down curved steps to the water’s edge, marveling at the ultra-modern city glittering just behind.
Within walking distance, the Bird Park was as enthralling. Walk-in aviaries stretch over 20 luxuriant acres; 3,000 birds fly ‘freely’ in natural splendour. Feeding time launched frantic feathered activity: raucous shrieking, wild lyrical calling, and frenetic flitting. With surprising precision, hornbills delicately plucked fresh fruit chunks from shallow bowls with their heavy-looking beaks, continually sharing the best bits with each other. Skeletal snags at hillside feeding stations pierced orange papaya halves, impatiently devoured by perching participants. Leggy storks, beady-eyed herons, and snowy egrets watched deliberately for unsuspecting pond fish; scarlet ibis and pink flamingos dabbled, groomed and grumbled haughtily. Adjoining the nearby Hibiscus Garden where the ‘queen of flowers’ flourishes in countless vibrant colours, the Orchid Garden exhibited 800 species along orchid-lined walkways in a floral paradise.
Magical at night, pastel blue, pink and green lights glow softly from glorious Moorish arches at KL Railway Station (1911). Renovated in 1988, passengers enjoy train services to Thailand, Singapore and within Malaysia. A funky heritage hotel and restaurant inside the station attracts many travellers. Kuala Lumpur seems to be rushing toward the future with splendid glass and stainless steel architecture. This modern city, however, continues to celebrate its extraordinary past. It would be hard to forget Kuala Lumpur’s natural splendor and remarkable heritage. Photo Credits: Chris & Rick Millikan If you’re going: Tourism Malaysia: Malaysia Airlines Shangri-La Hotel Kuala Lumpur |
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TM
Springing
from a tiny muddy mining village, Kuala Lumpur grew into Malaysia’s dynamic
capital. Despite today’s fashionable shopping malls, glittering skyscrapers
and futuristic appearance, however, alluring heritage flavours remain
prominent in the old city. Rambling along streets and alleys over several
days, my hubby and I uncovered KL’s old world charms.
A
short block away, small crowded shops line Little India’s narrow, hectic
streets, filled with exquisite saris, gold jewelry, textiles and carpets.
Street traders display brasses, silver tableware, glass bangles and silver
anklets. Mysterious perfumed oils and delicate strings of luscious jasmine
flowers dazzled our senses.
Chinatown’s
excitement lies farther south along the Klang where generations have lived
and traded along the narrow streets. Creating security away from the
motherland, early temples, associations, and benevolent societies provided
education, lodging, medical and funeral care for early Chinese settlers.
Shophouse merchants sold their goods from ground floors while living
upstairs. Miners sometimes spent their leisure time in brothels, opium dens
and gambling booths, or sometimes at Chinese operas and the Malay theatre
there. Part of the old red light district (with 39 registered brothels in
1890), today’s frantically busy shops and hawker stalls sell everything
imaginable. Bargaining for designer watches and handbags, CD’s, or DVD’s
excites scores of discount hunters. My hubby and I were simply fascinated
with heaped h exotic fruits in rustic open-air stalls: scarlet furry
rambutan, pale star fruit, mysterious pink lychees and durians encased in
thick thorny skins, ‘king of fruit’ despite their controversial stench.
Every night, peddlers and hawkers take over designated streets to sell their
wares. Closed to traffic, Petaling Street transforms into buzzing night
markets, alive with bewildering aromas from local food stalls, snappy music,
fortune-tellers forecasting surprising futures and friendly vendors
negotiating cash ‘deals.’ Coloured lights lend graceful elegance to aging
facades above those timeless shophouses; steamy clouds rise from rusted bins
of roasting chestnuts.
Next
morning we reconnected with nature, touring theme parks at Lake Gardens,
extensive green belts bordering the city centre. Little pathways and
trickling streams at Butterfly Garden wind through lush rain forest homes
for 6,000 fragile inhabitants. Stocked with scarlet hibiscus blooms or thick
banana slices, feeders attract fluttery flashes of red, blue and turquoise
green. Inside, spellbinding insect collections captivated us with flashing
iridescent colours, crusty shells and delicate antennae. Fortunately for me
they were long past being alive. 
Below
the hillside gardens, buildings from the turn of the century still surround
the colonial city center. On the extensive turf fields once used for lengthy
cricket matches, Malaysians now celebrate their independence with annual
parades and majestic ceremonies. Hoisted on a 100-meter pole in 1957, the
huge national flag floats proudly over old Merdeka Square, heart of the old
city.
Shaded
benches surrounded by flower gardens nestle among colonnades and fountains
splash, cascading restfully, great for a little rest to reflect and imagine.
Along the west edge, the rambling Tudor-style Royal Selangor Club (1884)
continues to welcome society, much as it did during the tin rush. Once,
playfully teasing the commissioner’s wife about parading her Dalmatians
there each afternoon, it used to be affectionately called the “Spotted Dog”.
Nearby, the Cathedral of St. Mary the Virgin (1895) retains early gothic
exterior buttresses and features exotic Malaysian woods inside. This vintage
Anglican Church houses a rare pipe organ.
Blending
Moorish and Victorian details, the completely brick Sultan Abdul Samad
building (1897) dominates several blocks opposite. Graceful,
Moorish-inspired horseshoe arches, majestic circular towers, copper dome,
and a clock tower first heard on Queen Victoria’s birthday guarantee
magnificent backdrops for celebrations on the square. Originally home to
British government offices it houses today’s judiciary and a wonderful
textile museum.
Escaping
the noonday sun, we traced Malaysian history from the Stone Age in the
National History Museum (1909), a three level former bank with unusual
hardwood-covered domes. A guide related a picturesque circumstance from the
past. “In 1926, the vaults apparently flooded, but business continued in the
upstairs living quarters. The staff floated to work in sampans, later laying
out millions of soggy dollars to dry out on the square, sternly scrutinized
by police.” Now that would have been quite a sight!