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Fiji’s Fabulous Flora

Garden of the Sleeping Giant

By Chris Millikan

Best known as lawyer Perry Mason or Robert Ironside, actor Raymond Burr founded the Garden of the Sleeping Giant in 1977. Curiosity and a love of gardening inspired our recent visit. Once Burr’s private collection, Fiji’s famous tropic garden lies below a distant mountain outlining a huge man’s profile, lying on his back. I thought the “sleeping giant” resembled my hubby, without the snoring, of course.

Meeting us in the parking lot, our garden guide explained that the sleeping giant is actually the spirit god of the Fijian people. “Nestled here in this secluded valley, our fifty acre garden displays orchids, flowering plants and trees,” Mariama said. To our relief she added,  “We won’t be walking it all today.”

Crunching along pathways, Miriama introduced remarkable orchid collections.  “Cultivating orchids was Raymond Burr’s favourite hobby. He even developed one called Barbara Hale, honouring his fictional sidekick secretary Della Street. While living on his own island, he spent much time here with his orchids, which continually bloom.  We now have over two thousand species.”  Multi-coloured, tiny freckled faces, huge frilly blooms and curious-tongued blossoms danced in sunshine muted by protective netting, their names readily rolling from Miriama’s tongue.

Wooden walkways meandered over ponds. Butterflies fluttered above delicate pink and mauve flowers poking up from glossy lily pads. Little fishes wiggled in and out of sunny patches. Bird melodies permeated the thick bamboo groves and giant tree ferns along the way. Often 12 meters high, flame trees displayed flamboyant yellow and red blossoms. “In Fiji, this beautiful tree is called the Christmas tree, blooming profusely in December,” Miriama noted. The endless palm tree varieties dazzled: fishtail, fantail, foxtail, traveller, princess, umbrella, lady, silver, to recall but a few.

Boardwalks wound upward past a picturesque open-air wedding chapel, through pine, giant mango, mahogany and other lush rainforest trees before returning downward to an airy bure. Styled as a Fijian temple, woven matting covered walls and peaked ceiling.  High above polished wood floors lazily turning fans cooled late morning air. Ensconced in over-sized rattan chairs, we sipped icy guava juice. In front of us stood a kava bowl.  Mariama noted,  “Chiefs once used that bowl during village welcoming ceremonies, often serving over 150 guests.”  Thanking her for our spectacular stroll together through the extraordinary garden, we hugged Mariama goodbye.

Our Bula-shirted driver swept us back to our hotel through nearby Nadi (NAN-DY). Shops, cafes, and locally made handicraft outlets line its bustling mainstreet. “This city was a community of farmers and shopkeepers not so long ago,” Ponto remarked, “but today tourism makes it Fiji’s third largest city.”  At the town’s south end a colourful, artistic Hindu temple serves the large Indian population. There, devotees worship nature through Lord Muruga, guardian of seasonal rains. We drove through rolling patchwork sugarcane fields where third and fourth generation farmers hand-harvested and stacked dusty cane onto flat train car beds. Small yellow and red sugar trains crisscrossed the roads, slowly pulling their sweet loads to Lautoka’s mill, Fiji’s sugar city. Another farmer strode behind handsome bullocks, readying his plot for cassava, a root crop basic to family meals. At roadsides, smiling women in floral sulus and bare feet sold symmetrically piled oranges, mottled green skins disguising the sweet, juicy fruit hidden inside. Waving hands greeted us along the way. “Bula!” they called.

We returned to our hotel on Denarau Island, itself a garden of 6oo landscaped acres reclaimed from mangroves. Three integrated Sheratons boast a variety of luscious plants and trees. We enjoyed several shaded wanderings at Fiji’s original luxury hotel. Hundreds of mature palms, shrubs and flowering plants fill the Royal’s grounds with colour and fragrance. Red and pink shell ginger, philodendron, spider lilies and various lipstick plants are common; the pink powder puff, giant ape and sea grapes are not so familiar.

The Sheraton Fiji featured themed garden courtyards.  Orchard Court included curry, cocoa, Plantain, paw paw  (papaya), mandarin, star fruit and guava trees. Perfumed creamy white, red and pink frangipani (plumeria) dominated Fragrant Court. The blossoms, combined with bougainvillea and hibiscus, make salusalu, a traditional garland, but we put them in our hair. On a garden tour we realized that the stately coconut palm is the South Pacific’s tree of life. Remarkably, the entire tree is used: leaves for weaving or thatching; wood for houses, boats and furniture; oil from the dried nut; flesh and milk for delicious cooking, exotic soaps and cosmetics. Later over scrumptious patio dinners, palms framed legendary south pacific sunsets.

Enjoying sun, sea and sand is easy in Fiji, a paradise of crystal waters and cloudless blue skies. Our days spent in garden splendour provided paradise of a different sort.

Photo Credits: Rick & Chris Millikan

Air Pacific
www.airpacific.com

Sheraton Fiji Resort
www.sheraton.com
sheratondenarau@sheraton.com
Phone: 679 750 777

Rosie The Travel Service
www.fijifvb.gov.fj
rosiefiji@is.com.fj.
Phone: 679 722 755

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