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Candy Shopping in Paris, 2004

By Anne Garber 

Among the special kinds of candy we look for in Paris are two particular types: We are very partial to dark chocolate-covered orange sticks (usually a kind of gelée or thick marmalade interior), and the unique and wonderful gelées themselves, typified by those made famous by Hédiard on the Ile St. Louis in the middle of the Seine. The latter ones are made from a concentrated form of the fruit itself, so the flavours are rich and resonate.

Aux Délices de la Montagne is artisanal confiseur Gilles Rongier's wonderful company. Rongier specializes in both hard and soft gelées of intense flavour and quality. We particularly liked his pear, Clementine, framboise and bergamot varieties, but to be candid, there was not a dud in the lot. I had to confess that they were simply the best candies I'd ever had -- and I've had quite a few!

We found Gilles Rongier at the artisan's market right inside the Gare de l'Est, although he makes them in his home town of Le Bourg, 15300 Valuéjols, tel/fax 04 71 73 28 80; or you can e-mail him directly at: delicesdelamontagne@wanadoo.fr

For Hédiard, there are many locations, including 118, rue Monge, 75005 PARIS (Tél : 01 43 31 88 94) and 21, place de la Madeleine, 75008 PARIS (Tél : 01 43 12 88 88).

We found the chocolate-enrobed orange sticks last year at a stand right inside the massive Métro station at Châtelet, and also in the 10th arrondisement at Christian Tholoniat (fabricant pâtissier-chocolatier) at 47, rue du Château-d'Eau, 75010 Paris; tel 01 42 39 93 12; fax: 01 47 70 05 21.

Tholoniat's grande creation is his semi fredo caramelise. He also produces a wonderful tarte citron, croqu'amade, a brilliant pâte ou gelée de coings (quince paste or jelly), much favoured by the Spanish as an after-dinner treat when taken with soft cheese.

It's also worth finding a location of Fauchon, although they do not -- at present -- do catalogue sales in North America. Fauchon's flagship store is still in New York, but when in France. . .

Fauchon is famous for its pâtes de fruits assorties and its original meringues, which have now been copied by every confiteur and patisseur in France. We are also partial to Fauchon's marrons glacés, nougamandines, calissons et chocolats assortis.

Our favourite edition of "Flo" near Bastille has now become a location of Fauchon; we believe Flo was taken over by Fauchon, as a "Coffret du Chef Flo Prestige du mois" now appears on the Fauchon website.

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