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 TM
Victory Sauce?
Accidental Emulsion!
Flamboyant Land of Tapas, Garlic, Rich and Bold
By Marty Martindale
 The people of the Balearic Islands, off Spain’s west
coast close to France’s influence, are known for their zesty food and zeal
for life. George Semier, in his article, The Culture of Tapas, in Saveur
Magazine, describes tapa, tapas this way, “The tapeo—or tapas-bar
spree—invents itself as it goes along: conversations with strangers,
spontaneous introductions, the unexpected appearance of an old friend or
ex-lover... Anything can happen on a tapeo, and often does. The tapeo
reflects the Spanish approach to life. This itinerant tasting and tippling
stems from an unabashed love of play and pleasure.”
Mahon, Spain, is the capital of Minorca, second
largest of Balearic Island, first settled by the Tunisians. Later, the
Romans, Arabs, Greeks, North African pirates, French and the British called
her shots. The latter finally ceded it to Spain in 1802. Today, Mahon is a
trendy vacationing spot for Europeans. The two-level picture, taken from an
upper deck of Holland America’s m.s. Prinsendam during one of its world
tours, shows the magnificent 250-step Georgian staircase approach to Mahon.
 Though not all agree, it seems Mahon and her battling
past earned the town credit for the creation of the condiment, “Mahon-naise.”
This is said to have come about when Louis XV dispatched General Duc de
Richelieu, to Menorca to rid Mahon of Engishmen entrenched there. To
celebrate victory, the story goes, the General, quite the bon vivant, was
apt to host his guests at elaborate banquets in their altogether. On this
occasion, the General challenged his chef to come up with a special sauce
made from eggs and cream. There being no cream, yet plenty of olive oil, the
chef proceeded to very patiently accomplish his first emulsion, blending
eggs with oil. Voille! “Mahon-naise,” later mayonnaise. It’s a reasonable
stretch to believe mayonnaise became more of a favorite as garlic
mayonnaise, also called Allioli, tart and spicey, so suited to the
flamboyant, partying people of southern Europe.
Countering the Richelieu victory sauce theory, Clifford
A. Wright, cook, food writer and research scholar discusses the topic in his
book, A Mediterranean Feast, The Story of the Birth of the Celebrated
Cuisines of the Mediterranean from the Merchants of Venice to the Barbary
Corsairs. He states, “The first apparent mention of anything resembling
Allioli is in the writings of Pliny the Elder (A.D. 23-79), who was a Roman
procurator in Tarragona on the Catalan coast for a year and writes that when
garlic is ‘beaten up in oil and vinegar it swells up in foam to a surprising
size.’ There is no doubt in my mind that mayonnaise was an evolutionary
development from allioli,” claims Wright.” (His recipe for Allioli appears
at the end of this story.)
The zest of Allioli is a natural for many tapas which
actually have practical origins. “Tapa,” in Spanish means “lid.” A lid for a
tapa in earliest times was a piece of bread, a slice of meat or a small dish
with the small snack on it. These lids covered the wine glasses and served
two purposes. First it kept the wine clean and the flies out. Secondly, it
seemed to hold down drunkenness, for no one was drinking many hours of most
days on an empty stomach. Originally, tapas were free. Once chefs became
innovative, an industry was born. Now many bars feature as many as 75
different tapas. Fino and Manzanilla sherry is the preferred wine.
Some tapas examples:
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Chorizo croquettes served with garlic “mahon-naise”
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Marinated chicken breast and peppers served with
garlic mayonnaise
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Red pepper, sweetcorn croquettes served with garlic
mayonnaise
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Crab claws served with garlic mayonnaise
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Allioli potato salad
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Served in cold dishes such as hors d’oeuvres, eggs,
fish, meat, vegetables, olives
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Used as a base for remoulade, sauce andalouse,
sauce montefrio (curry flavor), rouille (cayenne, saffron)
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Served with paella, local lobster Serrano ham and
roast pork
ALLIOLI RECIPE
In Clifford A. Wright’s Mediterranean Feast, he
states, “Allioli is traditionally served with rice dishes or fish
preparations, although many Catlans use it as a kind of a kind of a ketchup
for anything and everything.”
Wright’s Recipe:
5 large garlic cloves, peeled
½ t salt
1 large egg
1 cup light olive oil or 1/2 cup each pure or virgin olive oil and 1/2 cup
vegetable oil combined
1. Mash garlic and salt together in mortar until it is
a paste. In the food processor process the egg for 30 seconds.
2. Add garlic paste to the food processor, and slowly
drizzle in the oil until absorbed. Cover and refrigerate 1 hour before
using. Keep refrigerated for up to a week. Makes 1 ½ cups.
© Marty Martindale, 2004, Largo FL
Email:
mm@FoodSiteoftheday.com
For more information visit:
HOLLAND AMERICA CRUISES
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