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My Juneau, Alaska, Glacier Trek Conjures Harry Houdini and Sir Edmund HillaryBy Naomi K. Shapiro
Trekking on the Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau, Alaska, brought me to my knees! Not only because it was an awesome experience, but also because I literally tripped and fell while I was doing it! Last fall, when I had three days to experience the multiple offerings of Juneau, Alaska, one of my first acts was to hook up with an adventure outfitter to trek on the Mendenhall Glacier.
My new friend, Diane Pearson, owner of Pearson’s Pond B & B in Juneau, had done this a few times before, and joined me to provide moral support. Becky Cook of Above and Beyond Alaska LLC picked us up at Pearson’s Pond B & B right on schedule and drove us to a special airport in Juneau where NorthStar Helicopters & Trekking is located. When we arrived, two couples were already there for this adventure -- and, since we'd all been asked for our clothing and shoe sizes in advance (a common procedure for Alaska outings), each person's special gear was laid out on the floor waiting for us. I am what you might call a travel packrat, so I reluctantly gave up my backpack, jacket, shoes, purse, and everything else that I had brought. Imagine losing all your security at once. My mind raced about what to keep -- camera, film, money, i.d.? Money? Yeah, right! What did I think I was going to buy on a glacier anyway??? While I pondered that thought, they whisked away our personal belongings to lockers on the premises. Then they helped us put on waterproof windpants, special jackets, special boots, gaiters (those accessories that wrap-around your ankles and legs to keep out snow and ice), and a harness, which fit around our waist and thighs. Last, they handed us a pair of fleece gloves and a fanny pack containing a bottle of water and an energy bar. The harness was too tight around my thighs. I started to feel panicky -- and we hadn't even left the building yet! How would I get out of all these special duds quickly if I had to? A picture of Harry Houdini popped into my head -- but there was no time to get an answer.
We carefully climbed into our assigned seats (planned so that the weight is equally distributed -- another reason why they ask your weight for many Alaska flights); we latched our seatbelts, and pulled on our headsets so we could hear what Nik, our pilot, had to say, so we could ask questions, and speak to each other over the chopper's noise. When I asked Nik about his flying background and he told us he was a retired RAF (Royal Air Force) pilot, I knew we were in good hands. He didn’t look old enough to have put in 26 years. Nevertheless, I conjured a picture of Snoopy in natty red scarf, or perhaps 'Flying Jack'. With people like this, I thought, there’ll always be an England! Nik guided the helicopter straight up off the pad as if he were piloting the smoothest and highest elevator I’ve ever been on. Tally ho, old chap! The fifteen minute flight over the icefield was flawless and comfortable. Nik pointed out features of interest below as we made our way to the spot where our adventure would begin. We landed, right on the glacier, where Nancy, our guide, was waiting near a tent-like shelter.
Nancy and Nik quickly strapped crampons to our boots and offered helmets to those who wanted them. They handed us each a pick-axe, showing us how to use it for walking, balance, and extra gripping, with the flat side forward, so we wouldn’t stab ourselves if we fell. The crampons each had 10 teeth which they told us to stamp into the marbled surface. As we tried out our new toothed footwear, we noticed that the glacier was hilly, craggy, dippy, edgy, holey, wet, slippery -- and beautiful!
And we were off... sort of. Walking, even on the flatter parts of the glacier, wasn’t easy. Going up and down hills was a bit more challenging. I also recommend that glacier trekkers be in fairly good shape and moderately well-coordinated to manage this soft adventure experience. Once we began to pay more attention to our surroundings, we were struck by the glacier's stark, powerful beauty. Brilliant blue and green hues permeated icy openings.
We trekked around. Nancy took us to the edges of moulins (French for 'mills') -- where melting water disappeared down holes into nether regions of the glacier. She helped us leap over narrow crevasses. She led us up and down hills -- none of it as easy as it sounds.
Meanwhile, Nancy, extremely competent and pleasant, helped each of us when we needed it. As we descended a small, icy hill, she held my harness from behind, to guide me, and, as I neared the bottom, she let it go, saying, 'Good job' -- about one second too soon. At that moment, the picks of my crampons locked onto the ice while the rest of me continued forward. I abruptly crashed to my knees on the marbled surface. Ouch! The others helped me to my feet. Nothing broken, but my knees were red and achy for weeks. I wondered how Sir Edmund Hillary or any mountain or ice climbers, for that matter, did what they did, which, I can only surmise, is thousands of times more difficult.
Two helicopters zoomed in to whisk us and the guides off the glacier in a hurry, knowing how fast things were getting 'dicey' for flying. I doubt that anyone wanted to be stranded on the glacier -- even though there is an actual Above & Beyond Alaska outing where people do stay on the glacier overnight, but that wasn't part of our plan. We clambered aboard, and, after a ten-minute flight straight back to the home base under the low ceiling, we landed gently in Juneau. That evening, everyone had other plans, so I found myself alone with my thoughts at the cozy Pizzeria Roma in the Wharf Shops in downtown Juneau. I lingered over an exceptionally yummy meatball and marinara sandwich on crusty Italian bread, with a side salad of lettuce, red onion, artichokes, red pepper, black olives, and feta cheese, washed down by a refreshing Snapple drink called 'Fire', which contained ginseng and gingko biloba. Perfect! As I basked in the restaurant’s warmth, and the chill of the day slowly left my bones, I smiled inwardly -- smug and glowing about my special, new, fear-factor-accomplishment... I had just trekked on a glacier! For more information: Alaska Visitor Information Pearson's Pond Luxury Suites & Garden Spa Above and Beyond Alaska LLC Naomi K. Shapiro is a Wisconsin-based travel and outdoor writer. cre8vads@cheqnet.net |
TM
For this particular outing, they dress you in special
gear and helicopter you out to the glacier for a unique, guided hike.
They loosened my harness and I felt a little better.
Then, after a terse orientation about what to expect and what to do (and not
do) near the helicopter and on The Glacier, we followed-the-leader out to
the waiting six-passenger, Eurocopter A-Star.
It was raining like crazy (typical for September in
Juneau, which is, after all, in an arboreal rainforest), but our jackets
were waterproof, and it didn’t appear to affect what we were about to do.
Our bright red jackets made a fashion statement that
would provide great photos, but I concluded the color is more for safety
(easy to see), than for the pages of Vogue.
To the far sides of the glacier were gray mountains
ribboned with blue and black streaks. 
We were all getting better, but it wasn't exactly a
cake-walk. I hoped my photos would capture the flavor of this awesome
experience.
There
wasn't more time to think about it, because it was getting late and the
skies were closing in with more rain, mist, and fog.