Travellady MagazineTM


Toronto Head To Toe

By Madelyn Miller

To get anywhere in this world, a girl has to be glamorous. And right now no city offers a better education on accessorizing than Toronto.

Let’s start from the top. Every girl needs pearls, and the historical legacy of these jewels is well-documented in an exciting exhibit at Royal Ontario Museum. 

Pearls: A Natural History brings together more than 500 splendid objects to illustrate the natural and cultural history of pearls around the world.  Among the highlights are some of the world's oldest, largest and most valuable pearls, as well as the jewellery and fashions that adorned royals and celebrities such as Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe. It is a dazzling display of Nature’s most perfect gems.

Let the splendour of some of the world's most sought-after treasures captivate you at the Royal Ontario Museum (ROM), in the acclaimed exhibition, Pearls: A Natural History.  Organized by the American Museum of Natural History, New York, in collaboration with The Field Museum, Chicago, this fascinating exhibition is the most comprehensive presentation ever mounted on the natural and cultural history of pearls.  Until January 9, 2005, the ROM's Garfield Weston Exhibition Hall is the sole Canadian venue to host the award-winning exhibition.                                                                          

Pearls: A Natural History features nearly a half a million individual pearls.  These objects are drawn from private collections and major museums from around the world, including five magnificent examples from the Museum of Islamic Art, Doha, Qatar.  One piece, the Sultane Necklace was designed by Cartier in the 1930s and features 63 natural pearls dating to the 1700s, as well as 13 emeralds and 9 spinels.  It has never been exhibited until Pearls.

Other exhibition highlights include lustrous 50-million-year-old fossil pearls, a replica of a 14.5-pound pearl, the largest ever discovered, and of course, fabulous jewellery and fashions that have adorned the likes of Queen Victoria and Marie Antoinette, and celebrities such as Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe. This multi-faceted exhibition is sure to interest everyone - from museum visitor to gem connoisseur to biologist. 

William Thorsell, ROM Director and CEO, states, "This extraordinary exhibition embodies our dual mandate of natural science and human culture.  Most people see pearls as beautiful gems, but few understand the complexity of their formation, farming, and harvest.  Pearls incorporates biology, gemmology, anthropology and ecology with rare and valuable decorative arts objects from many cultures to tell the intriguing history of nature's gems."

The Exhibition

Long associated with royalty, glamour and virtue, pearls have adorned religious and secular art, been the cause of conquests and exploration, and fuelled worldwide commerce for centuries.  However, unlike other gems, pearls are developed within living organisms. Through the exhibition's seven enlightening and visually stunning sections, visitors will learn the history and science of pearls and view the glamorous jewellery, fashions, and ornamental pieces that they become.

In the Introduction area, visitors are introduced to pearls' historical associations with tradition, royalty, glamour and religion. Visitors can examine several magnificent objects, such as a 19th century Russian icon with a cover encrusted in pearls and gemstones, a classic cultured pearl necklace given to Marilyn Monroe by Joe DiMaggio during their 1954 honeymoon in Japan.  

The desire for pearls became prominent before the cutting and faceting of gemstones was developed, creating a flourishing international trade from ancient times.  For more than 4,000 years, the Indian Ocean – specifically the Persian Gulf, the Red Sea and the Gulf of Mannar - was the hub of the world's pearl markets.  Pearl diving – without artificial air supply or wet suits - was the principal means of harvesting pearls for centuries.  During the Renaissance, Indian pearls arrived in Europe en masse to be worn by monarchs and nobles.  The dominance of this pearl-producing region shifted in the 16th century, when Christopher Columbus, seeking a quicker route to the Orient, discovered great quantities of pearls off the Venezuelan and Panama coasts.  Just a century and a half later, the pearl-bearing oysters of the Caribbean and Panama were close to extinct, and as a result, the traditional pearl-producing areas of the Indian Ocean reclaimed their markets. In the 1920s, Japan came to the forefront, after the success of new techniques produced cultured pearls, which were increasingly accepted by the rest of the world.

The biology, microstructure and chemistry of pearls are as important as the jewels they become.  What are Pearls? explores the properties that give them their shape, colour and allure.  Visitors can examine in detail the layered structure of a pearl magnified up to 50,000 times its actual size.  A video presentation, interactive displays, and historical and modern pearl objects illustrate that no two pearls are alike, nor are they always flawless, pure white spheres.  Visitors can browse through a spectacular selection of multi-coloured pearls and view the unique iridescence of 50-million-year-old lustrous fossil pearls and a 100-million-year-old fossil ammonite. 

But how were these precious gifts of nature formed? To ancient Romans, they were the frozen tears of gods.  Greeks attributed pearls to lightning strikes at sea. Until the 7th century, scholars held that pearls were solidified dewdrops, captured by clams. And according to popular lore, pearls were formed from a grain of sand.

What are Pearls? dispels these myths by giving visitors an overview of the many species of molluscs and the variety of pearls they produce.  Molluscs, soft-bodied invertebrate animals bearing a hard external shell, inhabit both salt and fresh waters.  Pearls are primarily composed of calcium carbonate and are formed when a foreign particle – any irritating intruder such as a parasitic worm or a small crab – becomes inadvertently lodged between the mollusc's shell and inner lining (or mantle.)  This irritant becomes the centre or nucleus of the pearl. The mantle secretes a substance called nacre (or mother-of-pearl) that coats the object, thus creating concentric layers upon layers around the nucleus.  Pearls, whether natural or cultured, take on the shape of their nucleus.  It is this series of layers that determines both a pearl's shape and its lustre. 

Showcased in The Central Gallery is a large evolutionary tree, studded with pearls and shell specimens, which demonstrates the many relationships between pearl-producing organisms within the phylum Mollusca.    Visitors can explore the evolution of molluscs through a computer station and examine a Giant Clam and a replica of the largest known pearl, the Pearl of Allah.  This section also introduces visitors to the long-standing connection between royalty and pearls, exemplified by a stunning pearl-and-precious gem brooch given to Queen Victoria of England by her husband, Prince Albert, on their third wedding anniversary in 1843.   Another highlight of this section is a chrysanthemum brooch (1904) made by Tiffany & Company, comprised of gold, platinum, and diamonds, which features a creative use of Mississippi River pearls.                                                    

This next section focuses on Marine Pearls.  Marine molluscs, ranging from pearl oysters and clams to conches and abalone, are the best-known source of pearls.  However, visitors will discover that not all marine molluscs produce gem-quality pearls.  Each display case is devoted to one type of marine mollusc, its pearls, and beautiful objects made from them.  For example, La Paz pearl oysters are displayed next to a 3rd century carved La Paz shell pendant from Ecuador and an 1875 spider brooch made with a black La Paz pearl.  A collection of conch pearls illustrates the wide range of colours produced by the Queen Conch. This case also includes a video clip of a Queen Conch in its Caribbean habitat.

Freshwater Pearls are equally diverse and as widespread as their marine counterparts.  In this section, a video presentation explores the lakes, rivers, and streams that breed pearls.  Freshwater pearls are collected from the waters in North America, Japan and Europe and nearly three-quarters of the species of these freshwater pearl mussels are now at risk of becoming extinct.  As pollution and other threats to molluscs' natural habitats proliferate and pearl-producing species become more specialized, scientists and researchers look for ways to keep molluscs alive, both for their ability to produce such objects of beauty and to preserve the planet's ecological diversity.

This section also tells the story of Muscatine, Iowa, a small town off the Mississippi River that earned the right to call itself the "Pearl Button Capital of the World" in the early 1900s.  With an abundance of thick-shelled American pearl mussels collected from nearby rivers and streams, the town's mother-of-pearl button factories out-produced more established button-making centres in Europe.  Featured here is a button-making machine from the early 1900s.  By the middle of the 20th century, most button makers went out of business, largely as a result of the plastic button industry.  Today, North American freshwater mussel shells provide material for bead nuclei, which pearl farmers around the world implant in marine pearl oysters to create cultured pearls. 

The following section, Gathering and Culturing Pearls, explores the various ways in which humans have collected, farmed, and cultured pearls throughout history.  Various pearl-collecting accessories illustrate the dangers and limitations of traditional diving methods.  This section also traces the history of perliculture, the science of culturing pearls.  This process intentionally implants a spherical bead, made from a freshwater pearl mussel shell, within the soft tissues of a mollusc's body, nurturing it in a controlled environment.  Some 1600 years ago, the Chinese began culturing pearls by placing molds with tiny Buddha images in freshwater Cockscomb Pearl Mussels to create Buddha blister pearls.  The world's first spherical cultured pearls were produced in Sweden in 1740 by Carl von Linné (Linnaeus), the naturalist most famous for developing the modern system of scientific nomenclature.  Pearl culturing techniques were reinvented at the beginning of the 20th century by Kokichi Mikimoto in Japan.  Cultured pearls, considerably less expensive than natural pearls, inspired the common image of the pure white rounded jewels that adorn brides, princesses and movie stars.  A video shows how modern pearls are cultured and the tools used in perliculture are displayed.  

The final section, Pearls in Human History, traces the human fascination with these gemstones from the Greeks and Romans to modern day. Throughout history, pearls have played many roles, from ritual significance to objects of value and awe, causing conquests all over the world.  Modern historians of costume and decorative arts denote the 16th and 17th centuries as The Great Age of Pearls, when these treasures were shipped to the European market from around the world for the adornment of the nobility and monarchs.  A handful of 20th century fashion designers, most notably Coco Chanel, embraced them, using the gems in her elegantly casual designs. 

Now, a simple strand of pearls is a standard part of many women's wardrobes. This section boasts an impressive array of historically and culturally significant pearls used in jewellery, costumes, textiles and paintings, including a 17th century pearl-encrusted Russian vestment and a 19th century silver Japanese decorative tray inlaid with mother-of-pearl flowers.                                                                          

A number of exclusive components are added to the ROM’s presentation of Pearls including a small representation of the ROM’s respected South Asian collection.  India’s port of Bombay (Mumbai) has been the centre of international pearl trade for over a millennium.   Pearls have always been accorded special significance in South Asian thought as the only pure gem of nature, requiring no embellishment to enhance their beauty.    For their colour, beauty as well as their symbolic significance, pearls have traditionally held a central place in South Asian religious and courtly traditions and, more recently, among its growing consumer class.  Among the objects included in Pearls is a sandstone sculpture of a pearl-adorned Celestial Beauty, from 13th – 14th century temple architecture, as well as a selection of stunning jewellery from the courts of the Maharajahs.

On exclusive loan to the ROM from Henry Birks and Sons, is a magnificent necklace formed of a double row of 74 black Tahitian round cultured pearls connected by a removable contoured clasp in 18kt yellow gold and platinum.   The clasp is set with 205 round brilliant cut diamonds totalling 3.11cts and features a full button black Tahitian cultured pearl.  The stunning piece was designed and created by Birks in 1997. 

The ROM is proud to feature a number of striking pieces, donated to the Museum over the years by Mrs. Rose Torno and her husband Noah Torno, both of whom were generous ROM supporters and frequent donors.   In Pearls, Mrs. Torno’s lifelong passion for pearls is represented by spectacular jewellery such as a pair of South Sea Pearl and Diamond Earrings, designed by Cartier, each comprised of two 12mm Mikimoto pearls with .90 carat diamonds as well as a South Sea Pearl Necklace of 60 graduated pearls (sized from 7mm to 12mm) with platinum, diamond and synthetic emerald clasp.

The conservation of Ontario’s pearly mussels has become a significant issue with Canada’s federal government, which recently passed the Species At Risk Act (SARA).  Southern Ontario is home to the most diverse and imperilled pearl mussel communities in Canada, as three quarters of the nation’s mussel species can be found in the lower Great Lakes drainage.  Three of Canada’s most important mussel rivers are in this region: the Thames, Grand and Sydenham Rivers.  Several mussel species in southwestern Ontario have been rapidly disappearing as they are very sensitive to human disturbances such as pollution, habitat destruction and invasive species.  Featured in this section of Pearls is a freshwater tank displaying some of Ontario’s more common mussel species (these are more than just living rocks!) as well as the associated stream fish that host larval mussels.  As visitors travel through this section, they will encounter displays exhibiting shells, range maps and conservation and recovery strategies for the eight endangered freshwater mussel species found in Ontario.

Other Information

A superbly illustrated companion volume entitled Pearls: A Natural History accompanies the exhibition.  The 232-page publication contains an excellent overview of the natural and cultural history of pearls and the gorgeous jewellery and decorative pieces they become.  Published by Harry N. Abrams, Inc. in association with the American Museum of Natural History, New York, and The Field Museum, Chicago, this publication includes more than 230 color photos and archival images.  It is on sale for $75.00 in the ROM Reproductions Shop.

Pearls opened in October 2001 at the American Museum of Natural History in New York City, followed by engagements at The Field Museum in Chicago, The Fernbank Museum of Natural History in Atlanta, The Houston Museum of Natural Science in Houston, and The Alden B. Dow Museum of Science & Art in Midland, Michigan.  Following its ROM engagement, Pearls travels to the Milwaukee Public Museum then to the Natural Science Museum in Tokyo, Japan, followed by the Natural History Museum of London in London, England. Pearls has garnered accolades for its exceptional standard of graphic design and communications.  It received an Honor Award for Interpretive Design from the Society for Environmental Graphic Design.

Admission to Pearls is included with paid general admission (see details below.)  Advance, timed tickets are now on sale through TicketKing at 1-800-461-333 or 416-872-1212 or in person at the ROM. Groups of 20 or more adults may call Mirvish Group Sales at 416-593-4142 or 1-800-724-6420 for information on special rates and private guided tours. Schools and student groups should call the ROM's Education Department at 416-586-5801.  Throughout Pearls’ engagement, docents from the Department of Museum Volunteers will offer guided tours of the exhibition at regularly scheduled times.          

The ROM is located at 100 Queen’s Park, in the heart of downtown Toronto, at Bloor Street West and Avenue Road, by the Museum subway stop. The ROM is open seven days a week year-round, except for December 25.

Hours of operation:
Monday to Sunday - 10 am to 6 pm, Friday - 10 am to 9:30 pm.
Advance timed tickets for Pearls are now on sale and available by calling TicketKing at 1-800-461-3333 or by visiting the ROM ticket counter in person.
Admission prices: Adults $15 on weekdays/ $18 on weekends;
Students & Seniors with ID $12 on weekdays/ $15 on weekends;
Children $10; Infants (4 & under) are admitted free.
During ROM Friday Nights (4:30 - 9:30pm), reduced admission rates for Pearls are:
Adults $10; Seniors, Students and Children $5; Infants (4 & under) free.
Wheelchair access, stroller rentals, and guided gallery tours in English and French are available.  For information on ROM Group Services, please call (416) 586-5859.  For 24-hour information in English and French, please call (416) 586-8000 or visit the ROM’s web site at www.rom.on.ca.

The Royal Ontario Museum is the sole Canadian venue to host this fascinating exhibition organized by the American Museum of Natural History, New York, in collaboration with The Field Museum, Chicago

Putting Your Best Foot Forward

My mother always told me that it doesn’t matter how good you look, but if your feet aren’t comfortable, you won’t have a good time.

Bata Shoe Museum has the world’s best collection of shoes that you want to die for, although not all of them would meet my mother’s comfort standard. Spikey heels, pointy toes may be the rage but a podiatrist would never approve them. But as works of art and creative genius, every shoe lover will want to make a stop here.

The small, jewel-like museum is well laid-out. As you enter, there is a gift shop offering shoe related objects in every size and shape. You can get expected things like notepads, paperclips, stationary, in the shape of a shoe and totebags and umbrellas printed with shoes. The fun comes in the shoe-shaped purses and other whimsical things, all fairly priced.  

The Birth of the Bata Shoe Museum

How a Personal Passion Grew Into an Internationally Acclaimed Collection

To say that Sonja Bata is partial to shoes would be an understatement. Since the 1940’s, Mrs. Bata has scoured the world for shoes of every description, from the most ordinary to the most extraordinary. 

Mrs. Bata’s involvement in the shoe manufacturing industry and her frequent business travels have enabled her to build one of the world’s finest collections and North America’s foremost shoe museum. In it lies a wealth of fashion lore and historical information.

On the surface, shoes are an indication of personal taste and style, but a closer examination yields a different picture. Viewed chronologically, shoes trace a path through technological development and mark even the subtlest shifts in a society’s attitudes and values. Footwear illustrates entire ways of life, indicating as it does the climate, religions, professions and attitudes to gender and social status of different cultures through the ages. Whether they are objects of beauty or instruments of torture, shoes are surely signs of the times.

In 1979, when Mrs. Bata’s collection had outgrown the available private storage space, the Bata family established the Bata Shoe Museum Foundation. Its original mandate was to manage the collection more professionally and to create a centre of knowledge about the role of footwear in the social and cultural life of humanity.

Over the years, the foundation has funded various field trips to collect and research footwear in areas where traditions are changing rapidly. The focus of studies has included the lifestyles of the North American indigenous people and some of the circumpolar cultures including Siberia, Alaska, Greenland and Lapland. The Foundation has also funded the publication of various academic materials including The Typology of Native Footwear and Pride of the Indian Wardrobe on Athapaskan footwear.

The main objective of the Foundation, however, is to operate a permanent home, open to the general public, for the collection of more than 12,000 shoes and related items.

On May 6th, 1995, the Bata Shoe Museum opened its doors at 327 Bloor Street West in downtown Toronto. The five-storey, 39,000 square foot building, designed by Moriyama and Teshima Architects, is unique. As a world-class specialized museum, it has become a major destination point for both visitors and residents alike.

The Bata Shoe Museum is a centre of knowledge about the role of footwear in the social and cultural life of humanity. The Museum’s growing international collection of over 12,000 objects spans 4,500 years of history. A varied program of events and exhibitions lets visitors discover the stories behind footwear from many lands and cultures.

Currently on exhibit: Appeasing the Spirits: Alaskan Coastal Cultures; Paths Across the Plains: Traditional Footwear from the Great Plains; All About Shoes: Footwear Through the Ages and Beads, Buckles and Bows: Four Hundred Years of Embellished Footwear.

The Bata Shoe Museum is located in downtown Toronto at 327 Bloor Street West, at the southwest corner of Bloor and St. George Streets. For more information about the Museum, please visit www.batashoemuseum.ca.

Shoe Photos by Matthew Plexman

WHERE TO STAY:
Pantages Suites • Hotel • Spa
200 Victoria St
Toronto, ON.
M5B 1V8 
Ask for a room on the serenity floor and enjoy relaxing amenities and a cyber waterfall in your room. 
Toll free: 1.866.852.1777
Local: 416.362.1777
Direct Reservations: 416.945.5444
Fax: 416.214.5618
For general inquiries email: info@pantageshotel.com
For reservation inquiries email: reservations@pantageshotel.com

MUST SEE MUSEUMS:
Bata Shoe Museum

Royal Ontario Museum
The Royal Ontario Museum (ROM), an agency of the Government of Ontario, is an internationally renowned museum of first rank and a popular attraction, welcoming 1,000,172 visitors in 2003/2004.  Canada’s largest museum, it was created in 1912 with a dual mandate of natural history and human cultures.   The ROM will remain open throughout Renaissance ROM, the $200 million expansion project designed by Daniel Libeskind. 

GREAT GUIDEBOOKS:
Travel Smart Eastern Canada
A local author lists only the best places to eat, stay and visit
www.travelmatters.com

Moon Metro Toronto
Pages of maps unfold
www.moon.com

Insight Map Toronto
Fleximap plus travel information

Insight Compact Guide Toronto
Great little guide 

Berlitz Toronto City Guidemap
Unique fold opens in a touch
www.berlitzpublishing.com

Berlitz Pocket Guide to Toronto
Packed with information in as easy to carry size
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Great Canadian Vacations
25 Simply Fabulous Trips to Canada’s Cities, Mountains and Seashores
www.fodors.com

NB/Toronto
Nota Bene destination review
Exposes the over-hyped and uncovers gems to make an average vacation a great one
www.nbreview.com 

GREAT DEALS:
Toronto City Pass
Adults $46 CDN, youth 4-12 28.50 CDN, includes CN Tower, Ontario Science Centre, Toronto Zoo, Art Gallery of Ontario, Casa Loma, and the Royal Ontario Museum.

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