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Haart to Heart Wine

by Darryl Beeson

When the Roman poet Ausonius reached the Mosel Valley at Piesport en route from Mainz, he aptly described the slopes lining the river's bend as a natural, vine-clad amphitheatre. This tremendous loop of the Mosel opens such that it faces due south. The sun heats up the slat soil, which is augmented by the sunbeams reflected from the surface of the Mosel to the steep slopes above. The eastern and western fringes of the hillside protect the centre from cool winds and contribute to the unique microclimate of the site. The forest at the top of the hill and the deep, clayish slate soil provide for a sufficient balance of moisture even during a dry, hot summer. These vineyards are blessed with gifts of nature. To find out more, go to www.haart.de.  

Reinhold Haart “HAART TO HEART” 2003
Price $15.99
Rating 91
Not only is the name charming. The wine is as well. Aromas of fresh melon, white fruit and mineral introduce the wine. The sip shows bright, fresh fruit flavors of apple, lemon and melon followed by subtle floral and mineral.

Reinhold Haart Riesling Kabinett PIESPORTER, 2003
Price $19.99
Rating 92
The nose reveals fresh fig and subtle, dried apricot. The sip is rich and chewy with dried apple, currant and bright floral.

In 1763, the pastor of Piesport, Johannes Hau, succeeded in convincing the local growers to exclusively cultivate the noble Riesling grape. The rest, shall we say, is history- wine history. As a result, Piesport and Riesling became synonymous with one other. He himself selected Riesling cuttings from the parish vineyard to many villages on the Mosel and thus greatly contributed to its dissemination. Today, Reinhold Haart owns this vineyard. From individual, very old vines, they select those of particularly high quality to use as the basis for topflight Rieslings when we replant the vineyards.

Reinhold Haart Riesling Spätlese PIESPORTER, 2003
Price $30
Rating 93
The nose has a nuance of cashew butter. There are flavors of rich green apple, lemon peel, ripe fig, diverse floral and mineral in the long length.

As long ago as 1337 the Haart family cultivated vines in Piesport. It is the oldest winegrowing family still residing in Piesport. Today, the historic wine estate is run by Edith and Theo Haart, both of whom are totally committed to wine

Reinhold Haart Riesling Spätlese DRHON HOFBERGER, 2003
Price $40 plus
Rating 95
The nose has a richness of cashew or lychee nut, braced within complex mineral/slate. There are flavors of candied apple, apricot nectar, lime aid, grapefruit, lots of floral and the mineral bass note through the long finish. “We practice a longer fermentation, using natural yeast,” explains owner/winemaker Theo Haart.

Reinhold Haart Riesling Spätlese OHLIGSBERG, 2003
Price $38
Rating 95
The aromas are lean with mineral. The flavors are of spicy peach, pear, more brown spice, floral and mineral through the long, luscious finish. Spice is the signature for this white wine.

“As a young wine this works as a before meal aperitif. With five to seven years of age, the sweetness subsides and it pairs well with spicy foods,” suggests owner/winemaker Haart.

Reinhold Haart Riesling Spätlese PIESPORTER GOLDTRÖPFCHEN, 2003
Price $35
Rating 95
The aromas lean towards lime and tropical, though very subtle. Spicy flavors of candied apple, dried apricot, dried mango, spritzy citrus and mineral make this a very special Piesporter.

There are numerous Piesporter wines in the market place that are inferior and priced accordingly. Don’t confuse this gem with the cheap options.

Reinhold Haart Riesling Auslese PIESPORTER DOMHERR, 2003
Price $40
Rating 95
The nose offers nuances of citrus. The sip possesses bright, spicy flavors of apricot, peach, pear, floral and a bit more mineral than usual.

Reinhold Haart Riesling Auslese PIESPORTER GOLDTRÖPFCHEN, 2003
Price $40 plus
Rating 96
The nose resounds with flint and more mineral. The sip is rich and chewy. There are flavors of apricot nectar, pear nectar, candied lime, candied flower petals, roasted nuts and that hint of flint.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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