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Tintern Abbey — Inspiration for the ages

By Marilyn Loeser

We began to descend into the River Wye Valley in south Wales. Just ahead were the picturesque village of Tintern and its famous abbey.

Framed by rolling autumn-kissed hills, the tiny village — with a few shops, cottages and a small church — shared the landscape with the awe inspiring Tintern Abbey.

Visiting the Abbey

The abbey introduced itself to me much as Stonehenge had some years ago, with the persona of serenity and holding many secrets. The surrounding countryside seemed untouched. The setting added to this feeling of isolation.

We parked near the River Wye which runs directly behind the abbey.

Founded for Cistercian monks in 1131, the abbey and its ruins date to the late 13th century. Present-day remains are the combination of several phases of building spanning 400 years.

It seemed proper to speak in hushed tones as my husband and I wandered along pathways, up stone steps and under ancient arches. Great lancet windows served as picture frames for the gold, canary and scarlet hills beyond. Although the day was damp and cold, the abbey’s floor was covered in a carpet of brilliant green grass; our ceiling a bright blue sky.

While walking through the chapel we used the proportion and spacing of huge pillars to visualize the magnificence of what was here centuries ago. It is a humbling experience to stand among the ruins and realize the beauty and detail artisans created for the service of God so long ago.

It takes little imagination to visualize window traceries filled with huge panes of stained glass and monks going about their daily duties in the great expanse of the sanctuary.

It was in the 1500s when monastic life in England and Wales was brought to an abrupt end by the political actions of King Henry VIII. The Dissolution of the Monasteries was part of the king's policy to establish total control over the church in his realm.

In addition to severing links with Rome, the church was a considerable source of wealth to the crown. Tintern Abbey was surrendered to the king on September 3, 1536. A way of life which had lasted for centuries was over.

Lead from the roof was sold, windows smashed and the decay of the building’s shell began.  

In the late18th century, when it was fashionable to visit wilder parts of the country, the Wye Valley became known for its picturesque qualities. Tintern Abbey, covered in ivy, was rediscovered and visited by many famous seekers of the romantic including landscape painter J M W Turner and poet William Wordsworth.

J M W Turner’s abbey painting and Wordsworth’s poem Tintern Abbey brought even more attention to the abbey and the region. To view J M W Turner’s abbey painting go to the website: http://www.uncp.edu/home/rwb/tintern1.jpg. To read Wordsworth’s poem, go to the website: http://www.portablepoetry.com/poems/william_wordsworth/tintern_abbey.html

The abbey was purchased in 1901 by the Crown and conservation began in earnest.

Tintern village, the abbey and the Wye Valley are magical places to visit. I’m sure I will return again to drink in the heritage, the mystery and the peace.

If you go:

Admission is charged.

The Great British Heritage Pass is accepted for admission. For more information check the website at gbheritagepass.com.

For more information on Tintern Abbey and the village check the website castlewales.com/tintern.html or http://www.tintern.org.uk/abbey2.htm.

Entering Wales over the Severn Bridge, Tintern is reached on the A466 via Chepstow.

From Hereford, take the A49 south to A40 at Monmouth and then A466 south.

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