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Tintern Abbey — Inspiration for the ages
By Marilyn Loeser
We began to descend into the River Wye Valley in south
Wales. Just ahead were the picturesque village of Tintern and its famous abbey.
Framed by rolling autumn-kissed hills, the tiny village —
with a few shops, cottages and a small church — shared the landscape with the
awe inspiring Tintern Abbey.
Visiting the Abbey
The abbey introduced itself to me much as Stonehenge had
some years ago, with the persona of serenity and holding many secrets. The
surrounding countryside seemed untouched. The setting added to this feeling of
isolation.
We parked near the River Wye which runs directly behind the
abbey.
Founded
for Cistercian monks in 1131, the abbey and its ruins date to the late 13th
century. Present-day remains are the combination of several phases of building
spanning 400 years.
It
seemed proper to speak in hushed tones as my husband and I wandered along
pathways, up stone steps and under ancient arches. Great lancet windows served
as picture frames for the gold, canary and scarlet hills beyond. Although the
day was damp and cold, the abbey’s floor was covered in a carpet of brilliant
green grass; our ceiling a bright blue sky.
While
walking through the chapel we used the proportion and spacing of huge pillars to
visualize the magnificence of what was here centuries ago. It is a humbling
experience to stand among the ruins and realize the beauty and detail artisans
created for the service of God so long ago.
It takes little imagination to visualize window traceries
filled with huge panes of stained glass and monks going about their daily duties
in the great expanse of the sanctuary.
It was in the 1500s when monastic life in England and Wales
was brought to an abrupt end by the political actions of King Henry VIII. The
Dissolution of the Monasteries was part of the king's policy to establish total
control over the church in his realm.
In addition to severing links with Rome, the church was a
considerable source of wealth to the crown. Tintern Abbey was surrendered to the
king on September 3, 1536. A way of life which had lasted for centuries was
over.
Lead from the roof was sold, windows smashed and the decay
of the building’s shell began.
In the late18th century, when it was fashionable to visit
wilder parts of the country, the Wye Valley became known for its picturesque
qualities. Tintern Abbey, covered in ivy, was rediscovered and visited by many
famous seekers of the romantic including landscape painter J M W Turner and poet
William Wordsworth.
J M W Turner’s abbey painting and Wordsworth’s poem Tintern
Abbey brought even more attention to the abbey and the region. To view J M W
Turner’s abbey painting go to the website:
http://www.uncp.edu/home/rwb/tintern1.jpg. To read Wordsworth’s poem, go to
the website:
http://www.portablepoetry.com/poems/william_wordsworth/tintern_abbey.html
The abbey was purchased in 1901 by the Crown and
conservation began in earnest.
Tintern village, the abbey and the Wye Valley are magical
places to visit. I’m sure I will return again to drink in the heritage, the
mystery and the peace.
If you go:
Admission is charged.
The Great British Heritage Pass is accepted for admission.
For more information check the website at gbheritagepass.com.
For more information on Tintern Abbey and the village check
the website castlewales.com/tintern.html or
http://www.tintern.org.uk/abbey2.htm.
Entering Wales over the Severn Bridge, Tintern is reached
on the A466 via Chepstow.
From Hereford, take the A49 south to A40 at Monmouth and
then A466 south.
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