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Frisky Whisky, named for Jon, Mark and Robbo
By Darryl Beeson
Scotch, if really the fine stuff, demands gold foil on the
black or brown label with Gothic print. For peat's sake, the name should be
difficult to pronounce. Maybe Jean-Markham Robeaux if Scotch Whisky were French.
Or Jon, Mark and Robbo if Scotch Whisky were fun.
In 2002, Scottish brothers Jon and Mark Geary approached
David Robertson, former master distiller for the Macallan label, about creating
some whiskies that ordinary people could relate to.
"We've tried to take the guesswork out of scotch," explains
Robertson. "Instead of having fancy names that are hard to pronounce, we've
named the three options 'The Smokey Peaty One,' 'The Rich Spicy One,' and 'The
Smooth Sweeter One' so you know exactly what you're getting. And before you
think Scotch without pretension equals Scotch that's crappy," Robertson, AKA
Robbo reminds you to "think again."
The three "mates" believe that decent whisky should be
enjoyed and not worshipped. "We're fed up with all the waffle that tends to go
along with whisky," proclaims this gang of three.
"First, We were looking for a whisky that is incredibly
smooth and a little sweeter than other malts," explains the craftsman Robertson.
Robbo apparently struggled. He tried combinations of malts, malt and grain
whiskies, just grain whisky and nothing really hit the spot. His inspiration was
to add Ireland's finest to that of Scotland's. He created the first
multi-country malt. "A cool Celtic combination," concluded Robertson. This
strange brew was launched on Paddy's day (17th March 2005). 70% single malt
whisky from Cooley's, Ireland, and 30% single malt whisky from Bunnahabhain
Distillery, Islay Scotland, matured in former Bourbon barrels. For "The Smooth
Sweeter One," imagine vanilla, coconut, fresh apples and lemons.
Next, Mark gave Robbo a challenge. Perhaps, create a whisky
that tastes like two of his existing favorites, Macallan Gran Reserva and
Exceptional Single Cask 1 (ironically, Robertson's creations from his previous
job). It took several attempts, but the 8th finally cracked it, giving a bold,
intense flavor, packed full of rich spiciness. A mix of malts from whiskies
distilled at Highland Park, Bunnahabhain, Tamdhu and Glenrothes, curiously
matured in sherry casks. Full of dry spices, orange zest and dried fruits with a
splash of smoke, this would be "The Rich Spicy One."
Following a few days spent on Islay in 1995, partner Jon
had always been a big fan of peaty whiskies and "was very keen" for Robbo to
create a new whisky in this distinctive style. At the same time, Mark had asked
for a Smokey style whisky, similar to Highland Park or Talisker. So Robbo
created two amazing whiskies that spurred a heated debate as to which was
better. The discussion continued into the night at a hotel outside Bristol,
culminating in a moment of genius. Someone, the fellows can't remember who,
mixed the two prototypes in the same glass. It tasted amazing, distinctive yet
smooth, Smokey and Peaty at the same time, "The Smokey Peaty One" was born.
"Jon, Mark & Robbo's Easy Drinking Whisky" is indeed easy
drinking. At around $30 per 750-milliliter bottle, close to the price of popular
blended Scotch whisky such as Johnnie Walker Black, the decision becomes very
simple. Learn more at
www.jonmarkandrobbo.com.
Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine
values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion
on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or
secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee
sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for
numerous publications.
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