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Raft Maine

Eat a Lobster and Drink a Potato

By Robert Painter

Wow!  Was that really a 10' wave?  Well, it was at least ten feet from the bottom of the hole I was in to the top of the wave, so I guess it just depends on how you measure it.  Yeah, I know it may be too cold right now to go rafting in Maine, but I want to give you plenty of time to think about those long, hot days of summer while you’re sitting with your feet up in front of the fireplace.

If you’re an outdoor enthusiast you’ll find plenty of action here.  At the start of the Penobscot River you’ll find class V rapids for a couple of miles, then threes and fours for the next dozen miles.

I went on a twelve mile stretch of the Kennebec River with about four miles of class IV rapids through the Kennebec Gorge and ended up with smaller rapids and some great opportunities to jump in and swim a bit or just float feet first down the river on your back. Of course, you’ll be wearing the provided top quality life vests and your own foot gear - old sneakers, sandals or some kind of rubber soled shoes.

Another great run is on the Dead River.  This 16 mile stretch is the longest continuous whitewater run in the Eastern U.S. and has plenty of Class IV and V rapids to keep your adrenaline pumping.

This is real whitewater and the good news is that it is here consistently.  You won’t fly or drive to Maine and find there is no good water this week.  Even during a dry spell you’ll still be rafting.  The rivers are kept runable because of the controlled dam releases.  The dams are used to generate hydroelectric power and the releases take place every day - you can’t miss.

Rafts aren’t the only way to get down the river.  A lot of the outfitters can provide canoe and kayak instruction and rentals as well.  If you think rafting is exciting, wait till you try those rapids in a kayak.  Hang on and be ready to be wet!  And, if you’re really a thrill seeker, do it in a canoe. But maybe you’ll want to save the canoeing for some lake trips - they’ve got plenty of those in Maine, too.

One little extra that you’ll find with a lot of the rafting outfitters is an evening moose safari.  They call it a safari, but I’d describe it more as a moose hunt, driving around the back roads searching for a moose - without weapons, but certainly bring along the camera.  You’re bound to see some of these great, gigantic creatures but it may be too dark to get good photos.  So, go with the idea of just getting to see them in the wild.  If you don’t get a good photo, don’t worry.  Tell your friends about your experience and let them do it for themselves.  Why should you have all the fun?  If you can’t find a real moose - look for this guy.

A nice feature of some of these great adventures is the fact that the outfitters have their own cabins and restaurants.    Once you get settled in you can hike from your cabin to the surrounding areas or just sit out on the porch and enjoy the view.  You can even have dinner there. North Country Rivers also has a landing strip, just in case you want to fly in with your own plane.  It’s situated alongside a beautiful river.  Northern Adventures is more of an all round resort with a lodge, cabins, a retail store, free WiFi hotspot, social area, restaurant and brew pub.

When you think of Maine, surely something besides white water rafting comes to mind.  Now, what can that be?  Did someone say lobster?  Absolutely, positively correct. But that’s not all.  Don’t forget clams, crabs, mussels, scallops, haddock, and lots of other delights from the sea. Maine is on the Atlantic Coast and all those delightful seafood dishes are readily available at lots and lots of restaurants. There’s a place called Muddy Rudder with locations in Yarmouth and Brewer that will satisfy your lobster craving quite well.  Probably my favorite spot was on my first day in Portland at the DiMillo’s Floating Restaurant. I can’t even remember what I had, but I know it was very good.  But, what impressed me most was our wonderful server.  I think her name was Kali and I know her personality was terrific.  Good food and good service are not always found at the same time.  She was delightful and cheerful and full of good natured energy and fun.  I even remember her last words to our group -“Be careful driving - I know how many iced teas you had.”  I know, I know - you had to be there.  But, just remember, if you go to DiMillo’s be sure to ask for Kali.

Another stop that you really should make while in Maine is in Freeport.  You’re probably way ahead of me and already know that I’m talking about L.L. Bean’s.  A giant store with every outdoor item you could ever need.  Just remember you came to Maine to be outdoors, so don’t spend your entire vacation indoors shopping at L.L.Bean’s.  And two things you’ll want to know.  They never close - never.  They’re open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.  They have to stay open all those hours because more than three million customers a year pour through the doors

As long as you’re in Freeport there is another stop there you may not want to miss. You know, of course, that Maine is pretty famous for it’s potatoes.  Yes, Idaho is the other place.  But what Maine does with some of its potatoes may get your attention.   If you’d like a nice, gluten-free product for your menu you might want to add Cold River Vodka.  Maine’s only potato vodka distillery is just down the road from L.L.Bean’s and distillery tours are available at no charge.  It’s a cool little tour and very educational.  All the potatoes are grown on a family farm in Fryeburg, Maine, and the water from the Cold River Aquifer is used to produce this super premium vodka right in Freeport.  There is also a nice little gallery showing a historical perspective of Maine potato farming.  So, even if you’re not a vodka consumer, the historical part of the tour is worth the short drive from Bean’s.

If you saw the movie, On Golden Pond you’ll surely want to visit Belgrade Lakes. Believe it or not you can actually take a ride on the Great Pond Mailboat.  You can cruise around the inland waterway, view the wildlife and listen to the fascinating tales of the pond residents and the area’s colorful history from the man who ought to know - the mailman, Captain Norm Shaw.

You might want to end this beautiful day in Maine at the Wings Hill Inn & Restaurant, also in Belgrade Lakes.  Here you will find six guest rooms, a cozy sixteen seat award-winning restaurant and a lovely lawn sloping down to the village where you’ll want to take a pleasant evening stroll before dining. And, you can even bring your own wine.  They don’t serve it so you’re free to splurge on an expensive wine at the fraction of a restaurant price.

The young owners, Christopher and Tracey Anderson, met as students at the Culinary Institute of America.  They have transformed this 200 year old post and beam farmhouse into a wonderfully romantic and captivating inn with a 110 foot screened porch for summertime and a very comfortable living area with fireplace for chilly evenings.  And, as you might guess, the menu is enticing and the dining is outstanding. Did I have the Brown Sugar-Ginger Creme Brulee or the White Chocolate Mousse in a Dark Chocolate Cup with Raspberry-Orange Sauce?  Is it possible I had both?  Surely not!

When You Go:

All about rafting in Maine- find an outfitter here: www.raftmaine.com.
Find a lobster here:   www.muddyrudder.com.
Or at this converted car ferry now one of the largest floating restaurants in the world. www.dimillos.com.
Keep your spirits high: www.coldrivervodka.com.
Wings Hill Inn & Restaurant: www.wingshillinn.com.

Story and photos by Robert Painter. Photo by North Country Rivers.

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