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Bush & BeachEnjoy an Island with Your Safari!By Ginny RipleyWe had just enjoyed the true definition of the “trip of a lifetime”—a wildlife safari in Botswana, with jaunts into all three neighboring countries: Zambia, Zimbabwe and Nimibia. It was everything we had hoped for and more than we ever expected. An unsettling lion kill, a family of hippos grunting alongside our boat, herds of impalas so close to our Land Rover we could have petted them, a rare sighting of endangered wild dogs. We sighed and wondered aloud, could it really get any better than this?
We were off to the “R & R” last leg of our trip, a high-speed excursion 25 miles across the Indian Ocean to the Mozambique island of Benguerra. We were about to trade the most exotic animals walking the earth for the equally captivating life under the sea. After a hot, humid, often dusty safari expedition, this wet and wild island would prove to be a most refreshing finale. We flew from Johannesburg into the small, colorful town of Vilanculos where we decided to stay for one night before heading out to the Bazaruto Archipelago. We were picked up at the airport by the Assistant Manager of the Aquia Negra Resort in a 4-wheel drive pick-up, the transport of choice on these pot-holed rocky dirt roads lined with locals’ huts, goats, chickens and fruit stands. The grounds of the resort were beautifully landscaped sloping down to the beach. We had our choice of a hotel room with air, TV and fridge for about $185 or one of 12 A-frame chalets for $100. We chose the chalet for its cozy ambience, something we would deeply regret later, in the suffocating heat when the mosquitos and other super-sized insects came calling.
We took management’s suggestion for dinner, the Casa Rex restaurant. It was only five minutes away, but they insisted it was not safe to walk the dirt roads at night and dropped us off. We later learned about the country’s massive landmine problem, and were forever grateful for the lift. Graciously seated on the massive verandah overlooking the water, this dinner would prove to be one of the highlights of our trip. The Seafood Combo would satisfy kings—1/4 pound of grilled kingfish, 6 huge prawns, 2 giant crab legs, a pile of clams in the shell and calamari in a light red sauce. With salad and hot bread to boot for $15, and $2 per glass for famous South African red wine, we made a toast to Mozambique, the war-torn nation that is rebuilding after decades of tragedy and turmoil. After winning its independence from Portugal in 1975, Mozambique suffered through two bloody decades of civil war. Up to a million Mozambicans and countless wild animals died in a war that ruined the economy and much of the countryside. Unbelievably, they were then ravaged by floods followed by severe drought, all of which left Mozambique without an economy and riddled with an estimated 500,000 land mines. The country is now politically stable and on the fast track for rebirth. Game preserves are being stocked with wildlife. International investment is at an all-time high. And Mozambique leads the world in demining efforts, utilizing the cheap and intelligent African pouched rat to sniff out buried landmines. They’re too lightweight to explode the mines and work for bananas! Separated from the mainland some 10,000 years ago, The Bazaruto Islands were spared from Mozambique’s disasters. Because of the lack of tourism within the country during this 30-year span, the coral reef is pristine and well-populated with bountiful marine life. The entire archipelago was declared a national park in 1971.
Our gracious hosts of the Marlin Lodge got us nicely situated in one of 19 private chalets, all oceanfront and facing the sunset. The teak walkways (TEAK WALKWAY & CHALETS PHOTO) and chalets are built above the sand dunes so as to not disturb the wildlife or environment. Each chalet is made of indigenous materials and creates a unique blend of luxury, romance and African adventure. The roof is thatch and walls are clad with Mozambican reed, with crisp linens and mosquito netting á la Out of Africa. The secluded balcony features an exquisite handmade bowl filled daily with fresh water and flower petals to rinse sandy feet. We signed up for our first excursion, snorkeling at “The Aquarium” with a stop at Pansy Island, one of only two places in the world where you can find the fragile, highly prized pansy shell. The Aquarium more than lived up to its name, offering parrot fish, grouper, green turtles, giant lobster, lion fish and more. On the way to Pansy Island, our captain spotted a pod of dolphins. He followed and got us close. We grabbed our masks and dove in, hoping for a close encounter.
I scanned the horizon at sea level and tracked a couple of fins. Then I looked down directly beneath me, and saw a heart-stopping sight. The water was frothing and teeming with wild dolphins, at least two dozen. I instinctively pulled my legs up into a tuck, afraid to kick them. Two dolphins, curious about the dark shapes looming above, winnowed up to take a very close look. Scary and exhilarating at the same time, I had a hard time breathing. After all, these were not Disney-trained dolphins but wild creatures who often get killed by local fishermen, resentful of competing with them for fish. We were also thrilled to see a rare dugong, related to the American manatee. This gentle giant was floating on the surface enjoying a sunbath. Back at the lodge, dinner was unfolding, always a spectacular display. Our last evening was a splendid send-off called a “braii”, a glowing affair with torches, bonfires, candles and hot grills under the stars. Grilled crayfish were on the menu, a mouthwatering crustacean that looks and tastes like a lobster without the pinchers. After our memorable feast, we said our goodbyes to the fascinating, well-traveled people who had shared this unforgettable secret island with us.
Speeding across the Indian Ocean headed for home, we knew we had enjoyed the supreme travel adventure, traipsing across four African nations capped off with a stunning island experience. More travelers should consider this exotic “bush & beach” combination when exploring the breathtaking continent of Africa. PLAN YOUR TRIPHow to get there: Fly from Johannesburg to Vilanculos via Pelican Airlines (TTA). Marlin Lodge can help you make all arrangements or visit pelicanair.co.za. You can get your visa right at the Vilanculos airport. Access to the islands is by dhow sailboat or speedboat, which can be arranged at the docks. Some luxury lodges offer seaplane transport. Lodge rates: Marlin Lodge’s Classic Chalet is
$213/nt. pp, double. The Luxury Chalet is $281 pp., offering several luxury
upgrades, including A/C. Rates include breakfast, lunch and dinner, a sunset
dhow sailboat ride and snorkeling trip. marlinlodge.co.za. Best time to go: April – September (winter/dry season), temperatures along the coast average 80˚F (27˚C). October – March is the rainy season, with average coastal temps of 88˚F (31˚C), and increased humidity. Currency: The South African Rand is widely accepted; the native currency is the Metical (MZM). What to do: Sailing, island hopping, pansy shell collecting, snorkeling/diving. Benguerra is world famous for its spirited marlin, barracuda, wahoo and dorado sportfishing. During April and May, whale sharks arrive, along with humpback whales, which can be heard singing their mating songs underwater. Because of the islands’ diverse habitats such as mangroves, grassland, forested dunes and freshwater lakes, nature excursions might include freshwater crocodiles, samango monkeys, 40 butterfly species, 180 species of birds including flamingoes. Medical precautions: Mozambique is a malaria area--obtain your medicine before entering the country and take as directed. Marlin Lodge provides mosquito netting, repellent, coils and citronella soap en suite. What to wear: “Smart casual dress” is requested for dinner. Some long-sleeved protection from the sun and mosquitos is smart. Give back to the locals: Guests are encouraged to bring pens, old clothing, small school workbooks or soccer balls to give to the deserving island community. |
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The
next day, we were ferried to the docks and welcomed to our island paradise with
cool wet towels and a refreshing cocktail. Buengerra Island is one of three main
islands in the Mozambique Channel. It is often referred to as the 'Pearl of the
Indian Ocean', becoming a luxury destination sought after by divers, fishermen,
nature lovers and well-to-do sun seekers.
Trying
to squeeze as much life as we could into our final day, we got up with the sun
for a fishing trip in a traditional dhow sailboat. These graceful, carved wooden
vessels have a lurid history of smuggling slaves and ivory to the East in dead
of night. Today, they are tourist attractions offering sunset cruises, fishing
and island hopping.
World-class sportfishing is a big attraction in these
waters, so we were surprised not to see any fishing tackle, poles, rods or
reels. The two locals didn’t speak English, so we pantomimed casting and reeling
in a big one for them. They shook their heads and handed us a bolt of fishing
line. We watched them bait a worm, throw the line out and balance it on a finger
or toe to “feel” the fish take the bait. One quick tug later, they had a fish.
This was low-tech fishing done the local way and it was a blast. In
fifteen minutes, we caught ten fish, all carefully attached to a handmade
stringer of grass thatch and taken home to feed their families. It certainly was
not an excursion with fancy bells and whistles--maybe that’s what made it so
memorable.