^TM

Cognac

The Drink of Kings

By Carole Kotkin

Only a few hours by train from Paris, the modest town of Cognac is a place where brandy lovers can indulge their taste in the drink of kings—Cognac-- the rich, smoky liquid that has brought world renown to this little city.

Like many old French cities, Cognac, with a population of about 20,000 people, is a photographer's delight with its blend of contemporary and ancient architecture. Its old town is built up with quaint two- and three-story stone houses that line winding, cobblestone streets. Cognac is also the birthplace of a 16th century king, Francois I, whose sprawling Chateau Valois, open to visitors, retains its ancient flavor. The old town centers around the Romanesque church of St. Leger, whose 16th century spire reaches above the surrounding tiled roofs. To the east of the church begins modern Cognac, with its shopping district and charming cafes. The town is also blessed with the lovely Charente River, once a water source for the major cognac houses. The vineyards radiating from Cognac offer vistas of a pastoral French countryside. Winding rural roads rise and fall, offering startling views of hillsides studded with enormous chateaux--the fruits of wealthy cognac barons.

For travelers, a visit to Cognac is a feast for the palate with many cognacs to be tasted and savored. The distilleries, many of them housed in luxurious mansions, usually provide tours and tastings to the 200,000 visitors each year.

Wine has been produced near the banks of the Charente River since the 13th century. In the 16th century, the Northern European shippers who traveled in this region stopped to buy salt, a necessary commodity to preserve food, also filled their ships with wine. The only way Charente vintners had to compete with other French wine producers was to beat them at the tax game. Since tariffs were then levied on wine by the barrel, the Charentais could ship more wine with less taxation if they reduced it by distillation. The wine would later be reconstituted by adding water back to it. Dutch distillers trading in the region at the time shared their expertise with local producers. They showed them how to send the wine through the copper still not once but twice. Soon Cognac country winegrowers were making a spectacular eau-de-vie that took Europe by storm. It was not aged; it was sold as a clear alcohol with a punch. It was not until the 1700s that traders began to stock surplus production in oak casks, imbuing it with amber hues, velvety flavors and that earthy aroma that comes from aging. Thus aged, the color, aromas, and taste of this "burnt wine" (or brandy) found a following and became known by the name of the main port from which it was shipped. In that century, too, the great cognac houses got started: Martell, Remy Martin, Hennessy and others.

There are currently more than 300 cognac houses in and around this area, each with widely differing styles. The secret to cognac is neither in the grape nor in the distillation but in the chalky, sticky soil of Cognac--the town and region--that yields a grape high in acid. The majority of Cognacs are blends of aged brandies distilled from grapes grown in two or more of the six, adjacent growing districts of the Cognac region, called crus. The most highly prized of these crus, valued for its gray-brown, chalky-lime soil, is the Grande Champagne (champagne connotes chalkiness—not the sparkling wine). Nearly 18% of all Cognac is produced in this region. Brandies from Grande Champagne are typically the most expensive because of their rich, full bouquets and multi-faceted character. Cognac produced by Frapin at Chateau Fontpinot is the most wine-like of the great cognacs. Like great Bordeaux, it is chateau-bottled, which means that it is made exclusively from grapes grown on the vineyards surrounding the handsome chateau, and it is distilled and bottled on the estate. Chateau Fontpinot is the largest singly owned property in Grande Champagne.

The next cru in stature is Petite Champagne, from which approximately 20% of all Cognac is produced. The soil in this region is lighter in color and contains a lower concentration of chalk. Petite Champagne brandies lack some of the intensity of those from the Grande Champagne region. When a Cognac blend contains brandies from both regions, with more than half originating in Grande Champagne, the Cognac is labeled as a Fine Champagne Cognac, a designation created in 1938. Since 1724, The House of Remy Martin has been making Fine Champagne Cognac and today produces 80% of all Fine Champagne Cognac shipped from the region.

The smallest of the crus is the Borderies. Its brandies are soft, round, and highly valued for use in blending. Camus is the fifth largest firm in Cognac, and the biggest still owned by the founding family. For its best Cognacs, the company relies on the family’s estate in the Borderies.

The Fin Bois region surrounds these regions. Nearly 40% of all brandies produced in the Cognac district come from Fin Bois, and they too are prized for their ability to add fullness and dimension to the finished blend. One of the newest Cognac houses is Leopold Gourmel, founded in 1961 by the franchisee for Volvo and Fiat in the region. Leopold Gourmel Cognacs are made from ripe grapes grown in the Fin Bois. Courvoisier Cognac, established in 1843, is made using spirits from Grande and Petite Champagne, Fins Bois and Borderies aged from six to twelve years and can be recognized by its golden amber color and vanilla and spice aroma.  The Bons Bois and Bois Communs produce brandies principally used in blending.

Younger Cognac is generally fruity with notes of citrus that mellow out in 10 years or so to mature vanilla flavors with spicy notes and nutty flavors highlighted by jasmine at 20 years. Some Cognac houses even have brandies in casks that are older than a century - which are very low in alcohol content but extremely high in flavor and viscosity - from which they can select to blend magnificent Cognac.

Cognac production labors under some restrictive French laws. Distillation of cognac may not start before the end of November, and must be completed by March 31, although many producers are finished by mid-February. The grapes must come from the region and only three varieties of white grapes can be used to make cognac--Ugni Blanc, Colombard and Folle Blanche. However, 98 percent of all cognac today is made with the juice of the Ugni Blanc grapes. The spirit also must be distilled in a traditional pot still and aged in Limousin oak. Without following these and other strict laws, the resulting spirit may not be called Cognac.

The making of cognac is a labor of love, which requires the finest ingredients to ensure that its quality remains consistent and unsurpassed. A cognac can mature in oak casks for decades, with the wood's porosity allowing a small amount of cognac to evaporate, which is known as "the angels" share." Over time, cognac develops an attractive flavor (floral, fruity bouquet) and subtle aromas of spice, honey and vanilla. After the aged cognac reaches its peak, it is transferred into glass demijohns to stop the aging process. It then awaits the attention of the Master Blender, who, by blending flavors, tries to produce a cognac that will satisfy any cognac connoisseur.

Cognac labels bear no age statements. Typically, however, brandies carrying a VS designation have been aged between 4 and 7 years. VSOP cognacs are usually aged for 5 to 13 years, while XO, Extra, Napoleon, Vielle Reserve or Hors d'Age Cognacs range in age from 7 to 40 years. These enormous age spreads account for much of the tremendous individuality and distinctions between Cognac houses. To make a good Cognac takes years and to make a great Cognac takes decades; but to create an exquisite Cognac takes centuries. There are rare samples of time in every bottle of the best Cognacs, probably a few drops from Napoleon's day in the early 1800s, not to mention a few swirls  from Cognac's huge export boom of the 1860s. Cognac makers with stocks of ancient Cognacs will use them harmoniously by the cellar master. A.E. Dor is best known for its fabled stock of historic brandies, many brought by M. Dor soon after he had founded the firm in 1858.

Today, Cognac is a mega-business that ships well over a hundred million bottles abroad each year to more than 150 countries. While France has increasingly become an important market for Scotch and bourbon makers, the country consumes only 5% of cognac production.  The US receives 40% of the production. Japan and other Asian countries, Britain, and Scandinavia are among the largest Cognac markets.

In addition to being seductive, cognac is also a versatile spirit, which can be enjoyed in many ways--as an aperitif, as an after-dinner drink or as part of a mixed drink.

And one final word of advice--leave plenty of extra space in your luggage. Undoubtedly you'll want to bring a few bottles of eau-de-vie--a special fruit brandy--and cognac home with you.

Where to Eat:

La Ribaudiere, place du port in Bourg-Charente 05-45-81-30-54. This one-star Michelin tucked into a bank of the Charente river prides itself on using the finest local products available. Chef Thierry Verrat serves dishes like fricassee of lobster with potatoes in a tarragon butter sauce; and terrine of duck foie gras withmelon gelee.

Chateau de L’Yeuse,  05 45 36 82 60 Choose either the elegant dining room or the terrace overlooking the Charente river and enjoy dishes like untrimmed veal leg studded with olives, and vegetables grilled with thyme; choose from a cheese trolley with farmhouse and goat's cheese from Poitou-Charentes and end with spring strawberries, a light vanilla cream and thyme honey jelly.

Where to Stay:

Chateau de L’Yeuse,  05-45-36-82-60  65 rue de Bellevue  http://www.yeuse.fr- The elegant Chateau de l'Yeuse stands amidst a park of great oak trees. The original mansion built in the 19th century has twenty rooms and three suites.

What to do:

Musée des Arts du Cognac:  From fine art to traditions: everything to do with the production of Cognac. Open Wednesday to Monday at 48 bd Denfert Rochereau, Tel: 05 45 32 07 25  

Camus Workshops, 33-05-4532-72-96 or www.camus.fr for information on the master blender program, cooking classes, and tours.

See: http://www.cognac.fr for list of Cognac producers tastings and tours.

Photos by Carole Kotkin

Back to TravelLady Magazine