Medieval-modern Alsace, an aesthetic and culinary feast
And the pièce de résistance is Strasbourg
By Lucy Komisar
An ancient center of modern Europe—how’s that for contradictions? I’ve always
thought of Strasbourg as a political town, the headquarters of the European
Parliament. But on my first visit there, I was stunned and delighted to find it
charming, quaint, picturesque – yes, all those words you see on the travel
posters –quite small enough to be walkable and full of charming streets and
cafés. Maybe the Europeans knew what they were doing when they agreed to put
their parliament there.
The city was once called Strateburgum, the town at the crossroads. It dates to
the time of the Roman empire. Now it’s on the eastern border of France, just
across from Germany. And closer than ever to Paris: I found traveling easy on
the very new, very high-speed train that made the trip from the French capital
in just 2 hours and 20 minutes.
Arriving, we dropped our bags at the small, friendly Hotel du Dragon, just a
block from the Ill River, which surrounds the center of town, and meandered to a
nearby bridge to gaze at the lazy boat traffic. Later, we’d have to see where
that water went.
But first we headed for the main square, then walked about to get a sense of the
old town. It’s a curious combination of buildings that date to the medieval and
Renaissance eras, the 18th and 19th centuries and modern times. Note the
half-timbered houses in the photo taken from the bridge. For me, the older and
quainter the better!
We returned to the Place de la Cathédrale for dinner at Maison Kammerzell, a
stunning 16th-century carved timber building, rich with paintings and
sculptures, that now houses a very modern and first class restaurant. Food is in
its history: it was built by a cheese merchant in 1427 (that date is carved in
the lintel of the entrance door) and is named after its 19th century owner,
Philippe Kammerzell, a grocer. The upper stories were built in 1589. But there’s
nothing outdated about the French haute cuisine you’ll get there. Don’t forget
that Strasbourg sits on the Rhine. Try the choucroute with three fishes, or
roast fish prepared at your table. Coq au vin here is coq au Riesling,
naturally.
 The next morning, to get our bearings, we took the bâteau-mouche tour, a very
excellent decision, because cruising the river is a perfect way to get a sense
of the city without tramping over every mile or kilometer. The glass top kept
out the weather, but as the sun beat down about noon, I wished I’d brought a
wide-brimmed hat. Best go in the morning or afternoon, not at midday. Headsets
connect to a recorded spiel in numerous languages. Sit up front for the best
view.
We cruised under bridges and through locks, into la Petite France (little
France) with charming 16th and 17th-century houses on both banks. This is where
fishermen, millers and tanners lived, all using the River Ill for their work. We
would return later for a delightful meal at Au Pont St-Martin, on a balcony
overlooking the river.
 We passed under the old fortifications, a 17th century reinforcement of a
medieval structure. There are 13 arcades from which floodgates can drop to
create the Vauban Dam. The second level was added in the 19th century.
I had my first view of the European Parliament, whose location here – insisted
on by France when the European Community was founded and headquartered in
Brussels -- is the reason why at certain times of the year several thousand
Parliamentarians and Eurocrats descend on this town. Their buzz makes sleepy
Strasbourg sit up and vibrate. And they may be the reason why so many
world-class restaurants are here: the Euro-MPs would put up with nothing less!
 Back on dry land, we stopped at the Alsatian Museum, which occupies three
Renaissance houses dating from 1603. It’s a folk art museum showing the
traditional rural lifestyle through furniture, ceramics, tools and costumes.
Here’s an artisan’s workshop. We also liked the big glass modern art museum. A
bit of the old, a bit of the new.
 The afternoon highlight was the elaborately carved pink sandstone Cathedral,
which dates from 1277. The style is “high” or late Gothic, and between 1625
(when a fire aced out a competitor) and 1874, it was the world’s tallest
building. At 472 feet, it’s still the fourth highest church in the world.
The Cathedral’s astronomical clock has a calculator, unique in the world, which
shows the day of the week represented by mythological gods, months, leap years
and equinoxes, solar time, the phases of the moon and positions of planets,
signs of the zodiac and the yearly dates of religious feasts on a perpetual
calendar.
 Animated characters move at different hours of the day. One angel sounds the
bell; another turns over an hour-glass. Characters representing life from
childhood to old age parade in front of Death. On the last level are the
Apostles, passing in front of Christ, who blesses them, while a cock crows three
times. This happens at 12:30 pm, so if you want to see it, arrive and get a
ticket before 12:20 when the guards shut the entrance gates to the clock
enclosure.
That evening we chose dinner at the popular, intimate Chez Yvonne where I
shocked the maître d’ by attempting to put moutarde on the restaurant’s
signature paté de foie gras. Picture this: crème brûlée au foie gras et pommes
avec pain grillé aux figues. Translation: crème brûlée with foie gras and
apples, accompanied by grilled bread baked with figs. Delicious! The distraught
lady grabbed the mustard out of my hand! Then I had the choucroute garnie. By
now you realize that foie gras and choucroute (sauerkraut) are two essentials of
Alsatian cuisine.
 In the morning, we headed south on the wine road, which has inviting villages to
visit along the way. The medieval Ribeauvillé and Riquewihr are the best. We
stopped at Riquevihr, considered the most beautiful village of the Alsace wine
route. Its medieval and Renaissance buildings and fortifications date from the
13th, 15th and 17th centuries. The main street is filled with shops and
restaurants. We relaxed at an outdoor café before dutifully checking out the
sights.
The highlight of the afternoon was a wine tasting at the Cave des Vignerons de
Pfaffenheim, near Colmar, in the south of Alsace. It was hosted by sommelier
Bernard Nast. He explained that the cave is a vintners’ cooperative, of which he
– with a very small plot of vines -- is a member. They get together to share the
cost of wine processing and marketing.
 We tasted and savored the special wines of Alsace, including my favorites,
Riesling and Gewurztraminer. Visitors can sample wines daily except Dec 25 and
Jan 1, generally from 9 or 10 am till 6 or 7 pm. On weekends and in low season,
the cave is closed from 12 to 2. Ask about “Jazz à Pfaff” to get music with the
wine.
 We also got a tour and explanation of the wine-making. There’s modern steel
here, not wooden barrels. Now that is pulling Alsace from medieval times right
into the modern age!
If you go
The high speed (TGV) train from Paris to Strasbourg made its first run in June
and takes only 2 hours and 20 minutes. Get your ticket in the US or Canada from
RailEurope. If you’re planning to do multiple rail trips, RailEurope can sell
you a railpass for France, for several contiguous countries, or for Europe.
http://www.raileurope.com. (800) 438-RAIL (US) and (800) 361-RAIL (Canada).
Strasbourg airport handles major airlines, including Air France, Brit Air,
Alitalia, Austrian Airlines, and Iberia.
Hotel du Dragon
2 rue de l’Ecarlate
Strasbourg
33 (0)3 88 35 79 80
Fax (0)3 88 25 78 95
http://www.dragon.fr
Maison Kammerzell
16 place de la Cathédrale
Strasbourg
33 (0)3 88 32 42 14
Fax (0)3 88 23 03 92
Chez Yvonne (S’Burjerstuwel)
10 rue du Sanglier
Strasbourg
33 (0)3 88 32 84 15
Fax (0)3 88 23 00 18
http://www.chez-yvonne.net
Au Pont St-Martin Restaurant
15 rue des Moulins
Strasbourg
33 (0)3 88 32 45 13
Fax (0)3 88 75 77 60
http://www.pont-saint-martin.com
pont-saint-martin@worldonline.fr
The best guide: Strolling in Strasbourg (from the Middle Ages until today, the
architecture of the city in 6 itineraries; Medieval, Renaissance, 18th century,
Romantic/19th century, Imperial/post 1870, and modern). With maps.
The Strasbourg Pass, a city sightseeing ticket, €11.40 adults and €5.70 for
under 18. This provides free or cut-rate admissions for the boat tour, museums,
and other attractions.
Get both at the Tourist office
17 Place de la Cathédrale
33 (0)3 88 52 28 28
info@ot-strasbourg.fr
http://www.ot-strasbourg.fr
Bâteau-Mouches Boat Tour
Departure frequently from landing stage of Palais Rohan. Generally departs when
boat is filled. Lasts 1hr10min.
Cathedral
Place de la Cathédrale
Open daily 7 to 11 :40am and 12 :40 to 7pm. Closed to tourists during Sunday
morning services.
Astronomical Clock, €1, tickets at postcards stand from 9 to 11:30, at south
doorway from 11:45 to 12:20.
Alsatian Museum
23 quai Saint-Nicolas
Strasbourg
33 (0)3 88 52 50 00
12 to 6; Sunday 10 to 6. Closed Tuesday
€4.
Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art
1 place Hans-Jean Arp
Strasbourg
33 (0)3 88 23 31 31
11am to 7pm; Thursdays 12 to 10pm; Sundays 10am to 6pm; closed Monday.
€5.
European Parliament
Visits for groups with reservations
33 (0)3 88 17 20 07
Fax (0)3 88 17 51 84
http://www.europarl.eu.int
Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim
5 rue du chai
Pfaffenheim
33 (0)3 89 78 08 08
Fax 03 89 48 71 65
http://www.pfaffenheim.com
cave@pfaffenheim.com
For a hotel south of Pfaffenheim
Hotel Bristol
18 avenue de Colmar
Mulhouse
33 (0)3 89 42 12 31
Fax (0)3 89 42 50 57
http://www.hotelbristol.com
hbristol@club-internet.fr
Photos by Lucy Komisar
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